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raytard

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Posts posted by raytard

  1. the sorority girls around here love black sparks =)

    on the theme of joose though, bootleggers is kinda the same difference, but they both may be regional things, because ive never seen joose, but that shit would sell like hotcakes around here, we all call anything alcoholic JUUUUUIIIIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCCCCEEEEEEEEEEEEE

  2. the 514 isnt extremely loud though, but being able to record anything is pretty cool

    i saw someone who did the "big black guy named ben" alarm, where the warn away said "step away from the car, motherf*r" in a black guy voice, and when you set it off it went "o sh*t you gone and done it now, theres gonne be hell motherf*r* with an airhorn in the background

    never lol'd so hard at a carshow

    directed has the "pain generator" sirens they used on the merlin atv/jetski/motorcycle alarms, its a retardedly high pitched and loud alarm. We usually put one or two under the dash so when they try to remove the alarm they have these things blaring in their ears and decide it's not worth it, if youre within a foot or so your ears ring for like 2 minutes afterwards. i wish i knew the part number, but im sure you can find it in a catalog, theyre usually listed as "piezo sirens" just make sure to pop the lil round black plastic cap off, its for jetski waterproofing, if its in your car you dont need it and it gets so much louder.

  3. Im guessing the dimensions you have are from the edge of the rear flap to second row seat, low enough you can still see out the back window, and wide enough to touch both wheel wells.

    two boxes, each 22.75 wide, 20 high, 27 deep. that gives juuust over 5 cube net internal volume. considering the port is gonna be something like 19.75x4x22 to give that tuning, its just over a cubic foot, and the sub is going to be starved

    im not sure how much height you can spare, but if you went 2 boxes, 22.75x26x27 with a port using the back floor which ends up being the internal width(19.75) and about 4.5 inches high by 23 inches deep, you hit the minimum of 5cubes a sub plus port. from what figure, you should be just over 35 hz tuning, like 35.1 or 35.2, but its close enough

    heres a quick lil diagram so u know whats up

    http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mrafricabu4.gif

    as far as that amp, if it actually made that power, i'd be shocked

    it looks like a bad rockford knockoff, and its power acoustik, not the best brand in the first place.

    4g inputs and rms is claimed at 1700. i'd spend the extra cash and get something like audioque aq2200's or something similar, not some chinese made plastic throwaway big ass number on the box amplifier. if power acoustik has the technology to get near 6kwatts on 4g and 160amp draw, were all doomed

    not to mention, the one picture i found of the side showcases 4 atc fuses. atc maxes out at 40amps, 160amp draw seems right for 1700watts.

    i legitimately looked this thing up and down and spent like 45 minutes designing you a box and checking this amp out, dont buy it unless you realize that best case scenario, youre getting a shitty quality 1700MAX amplifier. you DO get what you pay for, that said,

    http://www.audioque.com/aq/AQamps2200D.htm <my suggestion, quite a few people have used them with very positive reviews, and its a legit 2200 watt amp. 2 of those, a few batteries, some zero guage, and a nice alt, mechman and iraggi should both have some for your car, and you should be ready to thump.

  4. the price of a decent cap is the price of a decent battery, a battery is thousands of times more powerful than most caps, so why not?

    I told this to a customer one day, 1 farad=1columb of electrons at 1 volt. 12 volt car=1/12 columb of electrons. 1 columb of electrons in one hour=1 amp.

    smallest battery we have is 20 amp hours, or 480 times the reserve of a capacitor.

    now who is dumb enough to get a capacitor knowing that (i may be wrong on the math, physics was a long time ago, and im drunk, but it should be right)

  5. Ive used a bunch of DEI part # 55000 and 55020, one is the line out put converter (high to low) and the other is a voltage sensing 12v remote turn on(we call it the icecube, it senses when the speaker is playing and turns your amp on, and turns it off when the speaker is off)

    as far as wiring, if it's for subs, usually just twist the grey/white with stripe together, the grey/white without stripe together, tap it into the speaker line, and the ground isnt really necessary, but just connect it to metal somewhere. you dont need stereo, and if you have a shared chamber box with a non-mono amp, this keeps funky stuff from happening.

  6. We've had problems with gmrc's and video decks, especially flip outs. Im pretty sure int hat car, the radio is powered through the amp, which in turn is powered through the gmrc, and it ends up being a load of current. 99% of the time that we've done it, we put a relay triggered by the acc wire to the radio, with the outpout to the radio's red, and the input tied into the constant.

    alot of times the gmrc/os unit just shorts itself out and kills the battery, it may be worth trying, but it seems more like the factory amp is blown honestly

  7. clipped music as in a clipped signal, which is really common on mp3's. The basic part of compression is taking away all dynamic range, making the low noises as loud as the loud noises, and eliminating all and the extra data. The problem is that the loud noises are affected too, often pushed to the range of clipping, where part of the wave is clipped off because the signal expands past the usable bandwith of volume.

    that being said, it is entirely in what music is played off of the thumb drive, not the fact that a thumb drive is being used.

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