raytard
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Posts posted by raytard
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its a lesabre
and a more than decade old one
put the money you'd spend on a real paint job (or spraypaint if you were gonna do it the ghetto way) towards a black car. your average paintjob professionally done is a few g's, which is prob more than the car is worth
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if you really need help, post up pics of the car, the amps, the subs, whatever else you have, and the stack of cash to finish the build, preferably with a name
theres atleast 5 posts a day by a new user asking how to get 10000 watts in their cars or btl's into a friggin honda civic, and noone has EVER done it.
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the most you get is a discount
i've heard if youre sponsored by JBL and competing for their team, you get stuff like at parts cost (which is like 75% off retail in some cases), but you're still paying, and even that level is very difficult to earn
most places will kinda get you stuff at cost if you're "sponsored", and help take care of you if you blow a woofer competing or something.
The best discounts i've gotten are through "accomodation programs", but thats usually one product from one company for a limited time (think 1000 dollar navi for 400 bux, but you can only get one, cant resell it, and have to pay in full within a months time, and only 1000 are available to all authorized retailers in the country)
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build a nice sub/port back box if you want a little more out of them. just be really careful with anything touching those cones, they kinda have a tendency to just shatter apart if something touches em while theyre beating.
and build it a little beefier than you think you need, can always put new subs into a strong well designed box when the time comes
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uh, find the hookup on like 16 cheap 10's and run 100 watts apiece to them or something. 2 10's or 12's or even 18's with 1500 watts wont pull off any more dramatic a hairtrick than blowing across the car real hard. even with 3-18's and 4500 watts my hairtricks are pretty pathetic (and only happen <30hz)
if you just wanna get loud, the AQ's will def do that. I've been kinda impressed with AQ's quality (and spl potential)
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amps cant draw extra current through the rem
and decks dont output extra, worse case scenario is the amps wont turn on.
i have 4 amps and a stinger voltmeter paralelled in my car and it all works fine. If you're running some obscene amount use a relay. in general a deck has about 500ma of output, and an amp usually takes 100-150ma to trip the turn on.
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just do it then
4 12's, 2000 watts, you'll hit between 100 and 165db, guaranteed you'll be in that range somewhere
what someone else did with a similar sub doesnt translate whatsoever to what will happen in your vehicle, unless its a prefab box and the same amp in the same car. shit, turning the box around can be worth a few db's....changing cars can make a huge difference
just go build it...
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im the same way
i get wayyyyyy too into a game, play the hell out of it for a week or two, and then stop...and then start playing it every day again...
like sunday, for no good reason, i played resistance 2 for a good...10 hours...non friggin stop. i just had nothing better to do. I bought the game like a year ago, played it after work for a few weeks (that sliver of time between when my girl left and when i fell asleep) and havnt touched it since summer began.
and now i wont touch it again for a week or so, and COD:MW2 will come out and my roomates and I will play the hell out of it for a month or so, and then we'll move on with our lives.
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http://www.mediafire.com/?2ypo0iymlum
do it the hard way, learn to do it yourself, click that link, download it, and use it
find the kicker manual, put in their specs, and go from there. the size the offer is pretty damn spot on, the tuning is a bit high for some, and the sqin/cube is right about what they need (the manual says 14-15sqin/cube@38 or 40hz iirc)
using that little program you can try different sizes and ports and whatnot and figure it all out for yourself.
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first, you have to get wood
then build a box
and extend the two walls on the left and right sides down so it holds it up (like an office desk)
its cake
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you can magnetize screwdrivers, crush walnuts, keep papers on your desk in the event of high winds, and hold doors open with it
other than that, its pretty friggin useless. scrapyards will give you like 2-5 bux for it, lol
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if you wanna wow people, mount those things to the roof! so you have like storage space underneath them
people aint ever seen that before. just like a big ass downfire box like a foot or two off the ground
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so grab something like an audioque aq2200 and be done with it...single 3ohm coils though? thats kinda weird
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boss is one of those super duper oveerrated amps. look at the fusing, multiply that by 10, and thats about what you can expect out of it in a realistic situation.
unfortunately, kenwood is kinda the same way. find the fuse, multiply the amperage by 10, and thats about what it will do.
repeat until you find a suitable amp. how much power are you looking for?
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do some 1508's ported with a ton of power
its fun to turn heads with little woofers
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as far as what affects motor strength, the size does have something to do with it, more size=more force. it doesnt always hold true though, as a well designed motor can outperform a badly designed larger one.
the top and bottom plate play a significant role in getting the motor's force to the coil, which is debatably more important than having the force there in the first place.
a tight gap between the motor and the coil also aids in turning magnetic force to cone-moving force. tighter gaps usually result in more motor force and higher sensitivity, but a higher likelyhood of failure.
basically a motor is like a motor in a car, and a big one is like a dragster motor. all the power in the world wont help if you're running it to a stock tranny and some michelin radials, lol. a well designed assembly (top plates, pole pieces, spacers, cooling, etc) is like getting your tranny right, some beefy rear end, the right suspension, etc. The coil and the gap is like throwing some fat slicks on the back. throw it all together and you've got yourself one hell of a machine. its all necessary and it all matters, the magnet is just one part of the equation
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yes, a larger box generally can have a flatter response. check out a program called WinISD, it lets you play with box size/port size/and your specific woofer to determine the like mathmatical response of your woofer in an open air environment. you can smooth peaks and see how the box performs before building it (it even recognizes a DB gain from a new design, so you can play around before cutting wood)
just keep in mind that cabin gain comes into play, so the idealized open-air calculations can really go to hell in a vehicle.
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there is a minimum and a maximum in which the woofer works well. towards the minimum, output and low end extension (ability to hit low lows) is usually hindered. power handling is increased though. on the larger side, the box is more effecient (louder with the same power) and there is more potential for hitting the lows, at the sacrifice of some control and "crispness", but mechanical power handeling is also decreased.
its all a tradeoff and you have to chose whats right for you. if you dont know split the difference. if its being overpowered go near the min. if you have alot of room/really know what your doing/want all out spl/cant ever power it properly go for max. otherwise you'll fall somewhere in the middle.
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get 4 dc lvl5 12's, use that same box because it seems to be a friggin golden ticket, and go find a real big amp...10-20kw
thatll get you real real loud
if you dont wanna spend that cake, get xl's and run 6-8k to em
or lvl4's and run like 5k to em
the amp is going to need to be upped if you want more deebeez, because you kinda only see minimal gains with a sub to sub swap.
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secret of the rfbld is being unbalanced, aka a 180 degree phase shifted signal is sent along the jacket instead of a ground, and any noise picked up between the rfbld and the amp (As in noise introduced via RCA's) is summed out thanks to some simple physics.
but that still leaves the issue of source noise...feeding a dirty signal in will just give you an amplified and unbalanced dirty signal out, lol
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twisted pair is better than the traditional
shielded is a joke
and a rfbld makes it all better regardless, lol
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just keep in mind, nearly ALL subs made today are designed to be in a box. if you just throw a normal sub into an IB itll suck.
if you insist on trying one out, make sure you find an IB sub. Fi has some beefy ones, most "slim" woofers can be used IB, and i think kicker comp 8's work.
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"sq"
not that a well designed sealed or ported box couldnt compete (or do better)...and as for spl, i dont think IB setups have even placed in a comp since before i was born...
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nononono
funky pups OPERATE off of a black hole, thats how come you never see the T/S specs posted. the BL is so high it cant be measured because of the black hole
battery vs caps
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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right
and all the kids want to copy that shit but cant tell a router from a voicecoil
this forum is def the right place to come for help, but every time i sign on there is someone with 3 posts that wants 10-20-30kw and a wall and 18's and shit in their mom's minivan or something