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raytard

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Posts posted by raytard

  1. I had some old ass logitech usb phones. Got em at bestbuy for 40 bux and they lasted for friggin ever.

    But I'm usually using the surround sound because I only play on console's and who the hell sits in their living room with headphones on? not to mention the fact that all games are in surround sound nowadays and its super ill to hear footsteps coming from the right place, surround sound makes you such a better player

  2. monoblock

    one block

    break out the dictionary

    you have one block, not two (although you may have one block with two holes, just like I have one head with two ears)

    so, if you throw two + and two -, each of which has a 1 ohm load attached to it, into the amp, it is effectively a .5 ohm load. its like getting two wet willies at once, its still not one wet willy...No matter what kind of screwed up math you're using I know you cant put 1 and 1 together and get 1 ( i mean, unless you're using multiplication and square roots, but come on, we're way off track now)

    leave it at 2 ohms, or buy the correct equipment instead of the cheapest

  3. for starters, take physics in highschool. they teach you all of this in detail, fo freeeeeeeeee

    if you didnt do that, go to www.bcae1.com and teach yourself

    moral of the story is no, go learn ohm's law and you'll realize that what you described will give a .5ohm load (two 1ohm loads in parallel is .5 ohm)

    this stuff is ridiculously simple, its barely even 4th grade math. I'm 100% sure I learned multiplicitive inverses and adding fractions in 4th grade and that's literally all you need to do this yourself. not even joking, pre-teens do this without thinking.

  4. i tried that when i had my wall, stripped more than half the screws out. since it was cabinet screws into 3 layers of mdf, it couldnt be pried out. I have the legit craftsman kit for removing stuck screws, but because of how much i stripped them and how thick the wood was, they couldnt bite enough to pull em out. I ended up having to sit there for a good two hours drilling all the stripped heads off and then pulling the speakers off the little bits of stud...it sucked. just a word of warning

  5. most dampeners even say that they are a "mass added dampener" when you add mass to ANYTHING it lowers the resonant frequency. the objective in a car is to lower the frequency of a "rattle" to a "flex", in layman terms you're making it heavy enough that it resonates so low you can't hear it anymore

    problem is, you cant feasibly make a car stop resonating completely (well you can, check out alma gate's bronco as an example. not all of us can dump hundreds of pounds of concrete into our cars, but she did and it worked great) so what all us normal people do is something "good enough"

    the thing about the stuff you see on the market, like damplifier and dynamat, is that they use butyl to stick and conform and add mass, and an aluminum layer that also adds mass as well as a bit of ridgidity(and keeps all that sticky stuff where it should be)

    you can use bedliner, but make sure it stays elastic when it dries, if it doesn't there is a good chance it will chip off because the panels will still resonate.

  6. things I need(not audio):

    HID's

    bluetooth(with audio streaming)/nav/ipod/7+band eq in radio

    things that impress me:

    high end audio processor/eq (audiocontrol dqs, audison processor, rockford 360, etc)-if used correctly

    custom big screen carputers

    innovative and well done custom work, even if its something simple, like running wires inside amps so no wires show, or just a cool way to do something simple, like an amp on the roof, or a handmade backlit pretty panel that is well done, or wheel well led's isntead of an under body kit

    shit done right-panel gaps are tight, boxes the right size and tuning, things installed level, glass work is smooth, etc. i.e. saw the rockford demo suzuki, they did door pods for 2 of the power mids. ran no grills and sunk the speaker, and its crazy shape, in and smooth and damn near perfect. No gaps, no pussying out with a circle jig, someone spent crazy time getting 4 of these things right and then wrapping them.

    things that dont impress me/should not be in a car:

    cheap eq's (mmats, clarion, qupix, pyle, power akustik...)

    prefab boxes

    neon/led lights i can see...the glow is cool, the 14 inch tube that you double sided taped to the passenger airbag/window/roof/door/console is just bad(extra negatives for using "Stick and click"s off of tv...or if you dont even bother lining shit up or making it level)

    any sort of horn, short of like an ID in an sq car

    pa equipment in general, unless its done reaaaallllyyyy well

    7 million low quality screens that all play the same grainy video with noise lines in it

  7. I have never tried to fiberglass before and I really want to learn. I have a few questions.

    1.What do I do to fiberglass the inside of a box?

    --basic is just resining the inside, get resin, mix it with hardener, pour it in and swish around evenly. it seals and smooths and makes a nice difference. if you want to go all out, get fiberglass mat and press it into all the corners (soaked in resin of course, with no air bubbles!)

    2.Where can I get all the stuff I need to do it with?

    -loewes and home depot are cool if you only need a bit, marine supply stores are better if you need alot (resin by the gallon or 5 gallon, glass by the yard, saves a ton of cash. also need hardener, comes in the lid of home depot/lowes ones, shake em and make sure you hear it bouncing around.). I've also bought from autobody suppliers, but they are kinda hard to track down. buy "chip brushes" or whatever the cheapest paintbrush is to use as an applicator, it will be destroyed. I usually find them for 25-50 cents. also, a mask is a good idea if you're going to sand it, and a gladware is my choice of mixing bowl, cuz its dirt cheap and bendy enough to break out dried resin without cracking.

    3.Is it really hard?

    --no. resining/glassing a box is an afternoon job, and i've seen 8 year olds do it pods is definately harder, but still not rocket science, just a bit more finicky.

    4.How do you do door pods?

    --read some buildlogs. mine is a place to start for one way of doing it, meade has his method up too (which is more of a door skin than pod), if you can find master coogle's door build you'll probably be blown away and inspired. Just read through fiberglass builds until you get the idea.

    These are probably all noob questions and if I took the time to research it all i could probably find it, but I would find these answers but I would rather get them all answered by the people of SMD. Ive seen some pretty badass fiberglass work on here so I thought this would be a good place to ask :D

  8. my car i molded the door in glass, built a pod off of it, and then screwed it on from behind the door panel. simple, easy, and even after years of slammed doors and potholes, they are still on tight.

    if you're a bit more ambitious, you can mould onto the door, and then glass that part and wrap the entire thing for a seamless look. Much harder to do, to get right, and more money (more vinyl/glue/time/glass/resin)

    my pods basically used a gallon of resin between them, and idk how much glass cuz i just buy it by the yard from the local marine distributer on the cheap.

  9. its not a sidekick, but avalons have a 4in stock, and i upgraded to 6.5 in comps in door pods (check my buildlog if you wanna see exactly how it was done. also, i had rockford 4's...so i'm coming from a very similar spot)

    9000% better. 4's arent even an option IMHO. run 2 sets of rockford 6.5's and run em at 2ohm a channel on a beefy amp and you'll be a very happy person.

    and dont worry about facing them up or whatever. if you run comps put the tweets high. if you run coax, just fire them across. I angled my rear ones way up and it made almost no difference (besides looking doofy and killing legroom)the woofers can be mounted basically the same angle as the door and still sound great.

  10. batteries are deceptively simple to make...

    more plates=lower ESR and higher current abilities

    when used in conjunction with virgin lead and AGM, you get more current AND higher reserve.

    and thats it basically. theres no fine tuning, no exotic compounds or anything. Unless you want a carbon fiber case, or a lithium battery (big money), that about all you can do to improve a battery. Luckily, that means that a "discount" shuriken battery can perform damn close to the same level as a comprable size kinetik or xs power. At the end of the day, most companies take a core from hawker/enersys, throw it in a case, slap a sticker on it,, and sell it as their own. These cores arent made by powermaster or kinetik or whoever, theyre mass produced and then just stuck into cases.

    Moral of the story:they may not be exactly the same, but they will all be remarkably close. when people argue over xspower being better than kinetik, theyre talking about marginal differences.

  11. When Chuck Norris goes to sleep, he leaves on a nightlight. Not because he is afraid of the dark, but because the dark is afraid of him.

    At night, the boogie man checks his closet for Chuck Norris.

    Chuck Norris does not own an oven, microwave, or even a toaster. Revenge is a dish best served cold.

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