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MikeyD

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Posts posted by MikeyD

  1. Hello all!

     

    I am looking for some help with my system.  Here is a little back story.

     

    I have a 2021 Ford F150 Supercrew with 4 8 inch Digital design subs under the back seat.  I am only getting roughly 12.4 volts to my amps due to Ford's BMS (battery management system).  I have not seen any work arounds or found any information about how to solve this situations.  Here is the ask....

     

    Are there lithium banks out there that i can install that will run at 14 ish volts without having an alternator charge them all the time?  I was wanting to run a bank on its own to my system and possibly charge it from the DC to AC convertor i have installed.  I am willing to put this bank in my bed under the bed cover.  I currently have 2/0 wire ran to the main SMD block from the main battery.  I could swap out the small invertor for a larger one to charge my bank.  

     

    Is this even remotely possible?  Just tired of seeing my digital designs m4000 sit at 12 volts and not put out any power.  

     

    Suggestions?

  2. 15 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said:

    DC power makes one for the 3.5 ecoboost

    Not sure which engine you have. But that might be a lead

    Shoot them an email. You'll want to do 3 things
    1. See if this fits, or if they have something that would. If not, could possibly be a tester to validate
    2. Ask if you can get it externally regulated
    3. Ask if there's any sort of bypass for what would be a charge warning / CEL


    If you're feeling spicy..... It looks like these alternators are indeed externally regulated from the factory, controlled via PCM.

    I found an unconfirmed wiring diagram from another forum. Could be a start point for investigating some custom wiring. Looks like GENCMD is a PWM control for field strength. What I'm unclear on is how GENMON works. If it's acting as a 'ground' for the rotor, or if the alt has any sort of internal communication. Again, need to do  some investigation on it.

    https://f01.justanswer.com/nmwagschal/d3965968-12f0-4239-8ac6-1a9c81501c76_2012_6.7__charging_testing_.pdf

    image.jpeg

    WOW!

     

    YOU FREAKING ROCK!

     

    I will check them out!  Thank you so much!

  3. On 8/1/2023 at 11:02 AM, SnowDrifter said:

    LTO is great for this

    The charge profile, however, is not

    LTO charges CC/CV - alternator holds a voltage and keeps it there. No hot/cold.

    You might have luck turning on the headlights too. On some vehicles, it'll boost/lock charge voltage to 14-14.4 or so.

    Barring that, you'd want to get an aftermarket alt from mechman or something, but ask for an external regulator and use the dial to set voltage. If you do this, throw the wiring kit out and use 8 gauge to connect the thing.

    I am at my end with this and Fords BMS system lol.  I cannot get the voltage to anything above 12.6 no matter what i do.  I have tried to turn on headlights and everything.  It wont go up at all.  

     

    I have looked at mechman alts and they do not offer an alternator for my truck.  I dont know what to do honestly.  I cant be the only one with a 2021 or up FORD f150 with this problem.  Do i have to void my warranty to get this running properly?  Do i need to scrap my current setup of amps and go with the sundown line S.A.L.T ?  Would this even help?  Very frustrated.

  4. 22 hours ago, SnowDrifter said:

    2 things:

    1. Have you measured the voltage at your alternator with a multi meter?

    2. Hard to tell, but in the second pic, is that a  ground clamp on the negative terminal? I'm looking at the thing with the plug. If it is, you'll want to route your ground wire through that. Else, you could try unplugging it and see if the vehicle defaults to some other voltage, without the smart charge. That charge algorithm won't work with the LTO batteries anyway

    That is a ground clamp that Fords BMS system uses.  I wasnt sure how to make the transition from 2/0 wire to this small wire.

     

    I did unplug this and it does jump to 13.3 or so but i get the idiot light (which i cant stand :))

     

    I am aware that the LTO isnt great for this but with size requirements not sure i have any other options.

     

    Thank you for the knowledge.  I do apprecaite it.  Looking forward to more.

  5. Hi all!

     

     

    I went and installed all of this car audio gear into my 2021 ford f150 SCREW and notice on the bass knob that I am only getting 12 volts pretty much all the time.  I replaced the front battery with a XS power d4800 and combined it in parrallel with a Titan 8 lithium batt in the back.  The ford BMS system is limiting the voltage to aroun 12.4 to 12.6 volts pretty much all the time.  I am not sure what to do honestly.  

     

    I have runs of 2/0 sky high going from front batt to back batt and the BMS is limiting my voltage sometimes as low as 12 even.  

     

    Anyone have any ideas on how to side step the BMS or fix this issue?

    Image_7.jpeg

    Image12.jpeg

  6. 6 hours ago, Joe X said:

    2/0 is good up to about 280 ampere according to most tables, if you think you will push the amp to the limits use what the manufacturer has planned which is two  runs1of /0  gauge each having a 200A fuse in it.

     

    Only if you intend to use this amp with music exclusively then you could use a single run of 2/0, since you want to protect the cable as well a single 300A fuse should work.

    I have plans of running another run of 2/0 back there.  Just sucks its a ford and i have to run to the battery with power AND GROUND!.  LOL

  7. 11 hours ago, Joe X said:

    The manufacturer should tell you what to use, one can only make assumptions:

     

    4000 / 0.7 = 5714.2 W of input power considering 70% efficiency and nominal rated output power,

     

    5714.2/14.4 = 396.8 A  is the current draw at 14.4V (close to what they say should be the maximum current draw).

     

    So that means that the fuses will blow on continuous RMS rated power @14.4V.

     

    As long as you don't play a continuous sine wave for long and your input voltage stays around 14.4V the 200A fuses will not blow.

     

    If you will use the amp for music only likely the two 200A will hold no problem.

     

    Thank you so much for the info!  

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