feelthebass33
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Posts posted by feelthebass33
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What kind of car? Whatever you decide, remember it has to fit in the trunk/backseat opening. Or I guess you could build it in the trunk. Why not some level 5's or even XL's?
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Well I plan on getting 4 more batteries, a lot more wire, and a mechman 270. I think that will cover me don't you? And they are more than 1000 rms with the level 5 soft parts. Its like a mystery as to how much they will actually take though everyone has a different answer lol. I drop to 13 at full tilt, maybe high 12s with a sustained low note at the amp. All I know is I'm pushing over the rms now and they haven't reached their full potiental. I'm open to any amp options. I will likely sell the mmats and use that money towards the new setup. They are dual 1s...lmk what you guys think.
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All my equipment is in my sig. I've been playing with these MMats amps and they just aren't cutting it. Box is 22 cu ft at 36hz. I haven't been able to clamp the amps yet but they are rated 2700 @ 1 ohm. What would you guys suggest? Could I get away with 4 Crescendo's at .5 ohm daily?
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Holy hell man. DC FTW! What's the electrical specs on this beast? Batts, alt(s), wire etc
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I tested the voltage on the RCA's both with and without the Y's and couplers and at the most there was a .01 volt diff. But Ill keep playing around with the RCA's more tomorrow. I spoke with a tech at Mmats and he seems to think that one of the two power supplies went bad, I may just pull it down and have the local electrical repair shop test and confirm his theory then send it out. He said it'd be around the 2-300$ range to repair...not too bad considering I paid 250 per.
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I just put 4 Lvl 4 w/ Lvl 5 coil 18s in a ported wall in my Town Car, which is pretty close to a caddi ...22 cubes at 32 hz. Rusty said I would be able to throw Lvl 5s in that same box with no prob as well. So it can be done...
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I tested both amps separately with the RCA coming straight from the deck...Still the same thing...The weak amp wide out will touch 44 V, while the other goes over 65. So its gotta be something with the amp right?
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Ill try swapping the RCAs, and they are both grounded to the battery bank in the truck which is grounded to the frame
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Ditch the Y splitters and strap the sub amps.
Well the Y's are only temporary, I plan on using 2 EQ's so that way I'll have two sub outputs. It will also remedy the amount of outputs I'll need for my other amps. But if I did want to strap them now, I would need a Maxx-link right? Or is there another way to do it?
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im guessing that amp that did 50v was the amp the rcas are hooked into from the headunit whereas the amp that could only do 44v was the one that used the jumper from amp 1
correct?
sounds like uneven signal voltage in ur rcas
Well I've got an RCA comming out of the H/U then before any amps it has a single female to double male on each RCA due to the fact that there isn't any outputs on my amps. Then one side of the Y is going to the 1st amp, while the two remaining RCA leads on the Y are connected to a jumper with couplers...The amp getting the jumper/couplers is the strong one...
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Threw my subs in the box and wired up everything last night. I went on to set the gains with my DMM... On one amp I was getting 50 volts AC which is what the RMS chart calls for. The gain was probably a hair past half way. Then I got to the second amp and I could only get 44 with the gain wide out. They are the same amps, Mmats D3000.1s....Is one amp messed up? Or is one amp just that much stronger than the other? I did have to split the RCAs with some Y's and couplers until I get my EQ's in...Would that cause such a difference? Any help/ input is greatly appreciated.
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I ran into the same issue on my 94 Lincoln Town Car...I searched the net and I found a guy using par can gel sheets to overlay on the housing...Well I tried that and found it to be flimsy, so I took it a step further and ordered some blue 1/8" plexi cut it to fit and glued it in, its the only way I know of to really get a blue using what you already have...Hope this helped, I can post pics later if you want.
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Thanks for all the info guys, sounds like I've got enough power on tap to get em moving with more room to grow. I can't wait to get this thing done and playing!
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I'm looking to do an aftermarket steering wheel in my 94 Town Car and I can't seem to find any direction as to where to find a hub adapter or if I even need one? I've called the local stereo shops and they say it "isn't possible"...I've seen it done, just curious what I need to do it, any help or advice is much appreciated
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Ive got 4 of Lvl 4 18s with the Lvl 5 coils...I was curious as to how much I could throw at these daily? I already have 2 Mmats D3000.1s do you think these will be sufficient? If not, what amps would you guys suggest?
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We did an install in my dads truck with 4 of the 12" DMXs and two clarion dpx11500s...Its loud. No wall, pulls 46s and 47s on TL...heres a vid
. So if you do it right they will get loud, good subs man. But not a big fan of the amps. -
Im just gonna build/glass the biggest shell I can, then see how much air space I have and go from there, with either 16 or 12 12s...Im leaning towards sealed, and the mmats amps i have are a little older, got both for 500 off a friend of mine...just one of those deals you cant pass up
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All sounds good, and i was thinking about the Hfi series...the cheaper ones...Will they be worth it? I know its A LOT of cone area, but what about excursion? Its only 11mm on those subs...I'm trying to do this on a budget, with intention of switching to CVRs or something along those lines down the road. Also isn't sealed usually better when doing that many subs?
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Well i already ripped out the back seat, so im pretty much ready for a wall...Possibly using some trunk. And I def want that "extreme ride"...So is 16 in a clam shell plausable? I just want a really loud street jammer, and I want the low low notes being that i listen to a lot of slowed down music...Also how much air space do you guys think per sub?
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Is is possible to cram 16 of the hfi 12s in my 94 town car? Or should I just do 12? I have 2 mmats 3500.1s for power... suggestions? box layouts? open to anything
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Im doing 12 12's in a bandpass wall similar to g monks with one MA Audio 802sx to start possibly two later on...Its going in a 94 town car, and im thinking powerbass but still undecided on subs...Is this ground pounder worthy? Also do you think ill break 150?
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lookin more for an amp that does at least 2500 at 1 ohm or 12" cvrs....im doin 12 for my next build
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sorry i just realized i forgot to put that, there W7s
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Looking to trade for equal value audio equip...will sell... 800 for the pair shipped or 400 each
best way to stop hatch rattle
in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
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Well when you have that much pressure firing right at the hatch all you can do is deaden the hell out of the whole vehicle. I would pull up Steve's build and see what all he did. But I would check out secondskinaudio.com...Do maybe like double or triple layer mat then use the sludge in the bad spots. I've also heard of/ seen people use expanding foam to fill gaps and stiffen body panels, but be careful as it can leave ripples in the panel. Lastly, if it was my ride, I would just wall it. Don't have to worry about the hatch and if done right would be louder. Just my 2 cents