[Dual 6.5" Door Speaker]

Lol i served you once, and will do it again.. no biggy..

I gave the guy useful information, which he could not put to use.

If your unable to find a simple constant 12volt positive wire after testing with a test light or a dmm you got problems.

It shouldnt matter if the car is on or off, a power door switch will always operate any time, for that switch to operate there needs to be a constant power wire going to that switch..

If you cant find basic and essential wires that are always used in the audio world you shouldnt be installing things in peoples cars let alone charging for it.

Positive and negative wires, not hard to find, ground out your dmm or test light, and probe the wires with the positive lead of the dmm or test light till it shows 12v or there abouts on a dmm, or the test light turns on.

It seemed like he wanted to take the quick and easy way out and wire the led's to the speaker wires which would fry the leds sooner or later (prob sooner). So lets say he did this and the led's burnt, now he is going to have to replace the customers speaker(s) due to a mistake he made.

But thankfully he checked first like you said.

I got no problem with the guy trying to make some extra bucks around the season, but I dont think he should bit off more then he can handle, and let alone pretty much experiment on someone elses ride.

PS; I hope I made my post long enough for you again, because I know how much you hate reading what I type, and its Guru to you sir!

LOL @ " I served you once..." How many copies of ~Bring It On~ do you own ?

[Boom Boom Room]

man i wouldnt do four 10s bc i have the same exact truck but a 1999 model...i use pretty much the same demensions as you do to. i made a box for a single FiBL 12'' sub and the box is about 2.4cuft ported to 32hz. if you want to port those four 10s you are gone have problems with the speakers not fitting due to the port being in the way.....

plus at 6'' in depth for the subs your are not going to be able to flip your middle console up anymore unless you are just going to take it out. and you will need 3/4 thick wood dont use 1/2 thick

http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm303/F...dioBuild029.jpg

I appreciate the advice. I have made a mold of the floor in the rear of cab, looking to gain airspace. I have also found other subs that don't require as much space in a vented enclosure. Maybe I'll just go back to a sealed design.

... is the box you made for an extended cab or single cab ?

[Boom Boom Room]

gimme some max dimensions and ill see wut i can do.

i need the absolute biggest the box can be to make sure it fits.

55 inches wide, 17 inches high, 4 inch top depth and 10 inch bottom depth. Those are the max outside measurements with the seats in a normal position. If I have to lose some room or make adjustments I can, maybe only use 3 10's . The reason for the 17 inch height is the rear part of the floorpan not flat, so 17 inches is from the highest point of the floor. The box could be taller, the top depth would just need to be less. Thanks for any help

[Boom Boom Room]

You mean strapable?

Yes, that is correct.

[Boom Boom Room]

I plan to put 4 10 inch Fi Audio SSD's in a 2001 standard cab GMC Sierra. The amp I have chosen is a HiFonics BXI 2608D, I chose that one because it is STRAP-able. I need assistance with the box design as I would like to have a vented enclosure. I have seen boxes in which all the subs use the same airspace with only one common port. Is that possible with a behind the seat style enclosure ?