wasted ink
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Posts posted by wasted ink
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TTT... Make some offers guys!
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Morning bump.. Make some offers guys... These unibits are excellent if you're an installer, perfect for firewalls etc
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2 PM's sent. :
PM'd back..
Terminals pending sale, along with one unibit.
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***Everything is BNIB and OBO***
(
Copper 1/0 Ring Terminals - Hole sizes:(1) 1/2"
(1) 5/16"
(3) 3/8"
(3) 1/4"
Heat Shrink included.
SOLD
Freud carbide router bits:
(1) 1/2" straight bit - 1/2" shank
$20 SHIPPED
(1) 1/4" Roundover - 1/4" shank
$30 SHIPPED
Irwin Unibit stepdrills:
(2) Irwin Unibit #4 step drills - Drill 3/16" - 7/8" holes with one bit
$35 SHIPPED or $60 SHIPPED for both
More pics by request.
Trades always welcome, package deals available
Please PM me to to get a quick response, thanks!
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good finish??
this is Steve mother F**king COOGLE
It will be a great finish
True that. I already told you this elsewhere... But looking good
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Time to do some cleaning, had these sitting around from past jobs and whatnot.
$15 shipped per pair.
Package deals can be arranged.. trades always welcome.
I have:
2 MA Audio 6x9's (#1)
6 MA Audio 6.5's (#2)
2 Kenwood Excelon 6.5's (#3)
2 MB Quart 6.5's (#4)
Sorry for the bad pics, more can be taken if needed.
Please PM me, just in case I don't check the thread right away..
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As the title says, brand new in box, never used 1/2" roundover bit...
1/4" Shank, 1/2" roundover radius, Carbide bit made by Freud (one of the best)
They go for $35+ online (not including shipping)..
Start it out at $30 shipped to your door. All trades considered.
Need more pics? Feel free to ask.
Thanks!
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sorry, should have specified.. the price was only supposed to be for xmas, but since it was short notice for some i thought id let it go for a little longer.
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ttt
interested in lots of trades... willing to make deals on multiple buys..
these can also be made to different sizes and specs..
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i can picture it done. nice job, cant wait to see it finished.
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sub up, port back.. need i say more
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i did something similar, only using grille clothe and some body filler for shape..
im looking forward to seeing yours done.
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thanks zade...
ill be out of power for what could be two weeks, so if i dont return pm's or answer here thats why. ill try to get on again soon. thanks guys, sorry for any inconvenience
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do you use two per terminal? as in one on each side of the wood? thats a very good idea. i might be buyin some from you. even know ive got a machine shop i could make them at. i like to support fellow bass heads though =]
I ship them out with one per terminal, for the exterior of the box. i just use a washer and nut or a flange nut on the back. thanks man!
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what point do they serve ?
As I just said... they serve as speaker terminals. instead of just drillin a hole and pushing wire through, these can be used to clean the install up, or to replace terminal cups.
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Ok guys, im sure alot of you have seen these (either in my build or others) already, but for those who havent, there are pictures below. Starting tonight, and ending Christmas night @ midnight, ill be selling these for $10 SHIPPED per pair, or $15 SHIPPED w/ hardware. Orders will be shipped out after Christmas. If you need them before Christmas, please PM me to arrange something. The price gets lower with the more you buy (I have more than what you see in the pictures.) Trades welcome. Please PM me with any questions. Thanks!
Info: 1/8" 6025 Aluminum Terminal plates, 1" wide x 2" long
Pics:
***ALL plates shipped out will have centered holes. The few in the pictures with off centered holes were test pieces***
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good idea with the backing plate ...you wont mind if I borrow that idea hahaha did you counter sunk that plate or did it pull in when you tighened it?
looks like an 10 mm bolt ?
Actually, i sell them. they arent copyrighted. as i told someone else, if you cant think of something more original on your own, be my guest
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i spy a millermatic.. nice little welders.. we call ours the mighty mig
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this all depends on enclosure design and construction, BUT..
-adding resin will add an average of .1 of a decibal.. usually not noticable by ear, but a good meter wll pick it up
-resin DOES NOT add strength to the box. in order for resin to have strength, it needs rigidity, which is where the mat comes in. the longer and more flat the surface is, the less rigid the fiberglass structure is, which is why some people add rope or wire under layers to strengthen long flat runs (i wouldnt suggest it in a box).
-the self leveling 45's are a good idea, i just dont like the thought of that much resin without any reinforcement in one area, especially where (in this case) it is exposed to such violent vibration... resin without any reinforcement is very brittle, and very likely to crack, and id hate to see that happen in somebody's box. i am in no way knocking steve for his procedure.. it has obviously worked out for him (and others) very well.. i just prefer the wood inserts instead (see the writeup up top in this section)
-to answer your other quesiton (krannyman) i usually put the resin on all interior walls, except the inside of the port. i then lay fiberglass over all seams in the box (again, except for inside the port). ill try and get some pictures up tomorrow night if that will help.
hope that helps..
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i also use the cheap stuff... goes on thick, doesnt need to be structural, and no mat, so no need to worry about air bubbles or anything.
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looking good steves... lol at the st ides...
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pm'd.. thank you ray
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assumed they were some carbon steal heat trated jump offs....made that nice clink sound when they snapped....turns out the bolt in my buddie's capacitor wasnt just stripped, it had also welded itself into the hole when someone tried to attach it
haha nice. ill try and get to it this weekend, and let you guys know how it goes. thanks again for the input
Fs: 1/0 Ring Terminals, Freud Router Bits, Irwin Dtep Drills!
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted
Bump.. Help me get another batt!