Gearstix
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Posts posted by Gearstix
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I have two Mach 5 SPL-12s. I will sell them as is but the only thing really useable is the motors on each. One has a broken, but repaired basket (which should be replaced) and the other would need a recone. The tinsel leads are burned on both.
Open to offers. I'm not sure what they are worth like they are. Maybe $100 each?
I dont have any pictures of them out of the box yet. I will get some pictures with my name tomorrow. We just got over a foot of snow.
Heres an older pic from where I was trying to sell them before I had used them. I will get an up to date pic as soon as I can.
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I am not sure how much it would cost me to have these reconed.
I'm in canada so that poses a problem right there.
I think these subs could handle one amp per sub (I only have one AP3000.1D) as they are.. I would like to eventually stick one amp per sub.. But at this point I feel like saying to hell to all this crap. I
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Well today was going good. I ran my 1 power and ground through my firewall. I have my amp screwed down. Power and negatives on the amp hooked up. I pulled out one of my subs and set it on top of the box. I had been parked on an incline and the sub fell into the box. At first I laughed. I figured well its okay. It didn't look like it warped the basket. I pulled it out just to check it and the basket is messed up, and three of the basket 'legs' are broke away from the basket 'rim'
So I guess I'm now fvcked.
One sub is fine, the other isn't.
I don't know what to do. I'm that mad I don't know what to do.
These subs have never seen power. And I have had these subs for over a year. It really saddens me. I should have placed it on the tailgate. I know its stupid and my fault.
So what can I do?? New basket and recone? Maybe get both reconed to handle more power??
Help me out guys.
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I've been using it for a few years, but recently in school I've been taking photography classes as I bought a dSLR camera. The first thing we do in photography class is learn how to use Photoshop.
I'm decent with it, but I've been learning about a few different tools I haven't previously understood how to use, like the Clone Stamp tool, and Patch tool.
I'm into mini trucks and such. My buddy almost bought a 95 1 ton Silverado dually that was dropped 4". IMO Duallys look sweet laid out.
So I decided to body drop this truck. Its my favorite new gen GM truck. GMC Sierra...
This is as far as I got. I don't know if I'm going to replace the wheels.
I've shaved the marker lights, 3rd brake lights, moldings, badges, door handles, tail gate handles.. etc.
The thing I need help with, is I'm not quite sure how to make a realistic shadow on the ground. I've always had trouble with this.
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ah man RIP i remember him in my fav movie from when i was a lil kid...Black Dog
That was a good friggin movie.
The show The Beast that he was on was pretty good too, I'm not sure if they'll continue with it since hes gone.
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YAY!
Somebody who kept an I6 for once..
Everybody's gotta have their 350s or 454s.. boo.
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try looking into mach 5 spl series. I have heard them get extremely loud.
I haven't played my SPL-12s yet but I've gotten great customer service from Mach 5. I'd buy from them again without question.
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Thanks for posting this, that is freakin awesome.
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Thats a non-Ecotec 2.2. Its the OHV pushrod 4 cylinder, the newer version of what is in my Sonoma.
I'm surprised the AD244 fits on there.
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How the hell do you guys get guns like this? Jesus.
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x2 on this. i dunno if this song clips, but i know for a fact that swing my door is the clip devil
I noticed that aswell.. I had tried to slow it down but then I noticed it clips..
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I think if just one mount was missing whats the problem it should work right still? Id just need a belt is all i think. ill try it when i get the cash.
I'm not talking about the mount, the plug that plugs in. I believe its 4 pin or something.
Not 100%, like I said check JBO. I'm pretty sure theres a guide on it.
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Check j-body.org.
you may have to change the plug on the alternator. maybe not.
I'm going to be putting a AD244 in my Blazer, but its a 4.3.
I believe on JBO theres are guide for it.
Planning to do the same thing with that H/O rebuild.
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Let me try this again.
Positive wire from front > fuse > long run to back > fuse > back batteries buss bar positive
Ground from back batteries buss bar negative to frame. Wire from back batteries buss bar negative to negative input on amp.
Positive wire from back batteries buss bar to positive input on amp.
If you do not hook the negative to the frame/chassis of the vehicle, you'll not get a charge. If you do not hook the negative from the buss bar to the negative of the amp, you'll not get power to the amp.
I hope I worded that right. If not I'm sure somebody will correct it for me.
I got ya.
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Positive wire from the front to the positive buss bar. Negative wire from the buss bar to the frame or chassis.
Really isn't any different than setting up a basic system, except you have more batteries in place.
To answer your earlier question about fuses to the amp(s). If the amp(s) do not have built in fuses then yes, you'd want them.. unless the amps are so close to the batteries there'd be no short. The fuses in the amps are to protect the amps. The fuses from the front battery to the back batteries are to protect the positive wire and batteries against any shorts. This is why you put the fuses as close to the batteries as possible.
I hope that helped out a little. I haven't ran fuses in such a long time, I'm starting to think I'm new to the scene again.
Ahh okay. So the negative coming off the battery bank has to be grounded. Then you ground the amp aswell?
It didn't really seem right when somebody told me the negative off the battery bank goes into the amp.
edit:
Oh...
this is what my wire says, I have #1.
So would I use a 300a fuse?
Why I'm asking, the wire/fuse guide says this..
Maximum Fuse Size00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps
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Well I was bored in class today and started to think about the wiring for my stereo...
When I do my extra batteries in the back, I do a run from the positive terminals to the positive bus bar, then a run from the negative to the negative buss bar.
The positive goes to the amp...
Where does the negative go?
My other setup didn't have any additional batteries, and the amp was grounded to the chassis.
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i believe thats rated at 14.4 volts
I think so. But still, it does do rated.
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These are the fuse blocks I can get locally..
I can't find the fuses but I believe there EFX aswell.
There like this,
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UPS Canada ($135.86)
7-12 business days
UPS Worldwide Expedited ($199.94)
3-4 business days
UPS Worldwide Express Saver ($224.99)
1-2 business days, by end of business day
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Whats your postal code, I sure even though shipping will be more, it will still be cheaper than the thousand bucks you would be paying at the shop, I understand about support the dealers but damn near double factory price is pushing it alot.
Lmao, I don't really want to give out my postal code..
Got a link though?
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Did not know that, thanks for the info. That convinces me even more to get one.
I've searched around a bit on the Audiopipe AP3000, I think somebody on Termpro tested it... not 100% sure.
It seemed like a solid amp at a good price so.. I bought one.. barely used. The Canadian AP dealer wanted alot of money for the 1500, let alone the 3000.
Nice Ranger. I have a 94 Sonoma I'm trying to bag.
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Running at 2 ohms, so 2000 watts. A 300 amp and two batteries in the rear should be plenty. I plan on running the same amp at 2 ohms on my DC's and I'm going to do a 220a alt, Dry Cell up front, and the Big 3 and see where my volts stand at that, then I'll worry about rear bank if need be.
If I remember correctly... The Audiopipe AP3000.1D is two 1500.1s strapped in one case. So it will do 3000W @ 2 ohms.
And its CEA rated, and its been proven to do at least rated.
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It may cheaper for me to run 2 200a alternators. Would this suffice? I'm sorta afraid to price out a 350a alternator, lol.
Problem is with the batteries, I'm in Canada..
TechSys, you said to fuse the run from front to back, but what about the run from the batteries to the amp?
300a fuse for the #1 ?
Mach 5 SPL-12 Motors
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted · Edited by Gearstix
Well I won't be able to get the pictures that fast. I will just start a new thread when I have all the proper information. You can delete it if you like.
We just got a snow storn and its still snowing, I don't even know if I can get my truck out of my driveway let alone get the subs out.
Sorry about this.