alvitae
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Posts posted by alvitae
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I've played for years. Favorite guitar was a Vox Tornado my dad found leaning against a dumpster.
I have a freind that carves guitars. here is one he did out of an Explorer.
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I am amazed someone at a shop didnt say "cresendo? Never heard of it. Flea market junk. I carry the good stuff, Pioneer, Sony assplode etc.
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put some astringent on it, Corn starch or something to staunch it.
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I've got the 5000 watt version. Not sure wich one is stickied.
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I see in your sig your are running a kenwood Kac. That was my first comp amp as well and I cleaned house with the old thing. People may put em down but I always have liked them. And grats on the win!
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Yeah it scared me a good bit, i paid more for the sub than i did on anything else in the car.
Hey im curious, what does the subsonic even do i don't entirely understand.
I'm sure technical minded people will jump down my throat for this but what it does kind of is back the power off starting at the freq you set it. So if your box is tuned to 40 you might set it to 36 hz and that whay notes lower than your tuning don't hit as hard and make the sub lose it's loading and start free flapping.
Flame away lol
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Good that you found the problem. I've had the same thing happen before and it sounded like it was the sub as well.
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With my gain knob you set the gain then plug in the knob. The knob then sees what you have your gain at as max.
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That is kinda cool actually.
Maybe somthing like that would be good to test a body panel while doing tones. Ones that read off of the tone being played would get dampening and ones that read on would be left alone...
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Sounding like poo is only one reason clipping is bad, Overheating is another.
The way I understand it is a good sine wave looks like rolling waves. A clipped signal is flat at the tops and bottom og the waves. In subs for example the cooling comes from the movement of the sub. Since your subs aer a mirror of your signal they are staying out and in a fraction of a second longer thus overheating.
As far as amps go it gets them hot as well, but I don't know exactly how.
If I'm wrong someone like James or sometone can call me names and set us straight
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1. WHO THE HELL ARE YOU TO TELL SOMEONE NOT TO LISTEN TO SOMEONE ELSE? 2. I'm sure he can make up his own damn mind.
So a sealed box has more output? Damn. I've been doing it wrong this whole time
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It does get expensive quick, I think 2 grand is a little low on the estimate. Im in the middle of a big build and have that much in sound deadener and batteries.
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I use an Audiocontrol Epic-160, Sure it's off a little but it's great for box positioning, Tuning and seeing what songs are loudest for your set up.
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If your looking for a sponser, goto your local audio shop and become friends with them. Let them know your interested to help out around the shop for anything they need. Tell them you want to learn whatever you can and you would even support their shop via a sticker/decal of the shop.
Thats basically what I have done. Being into bass as much as I am I started hanging out at my local shop. Competed in every comp i could and did my best to rep the pruduct I was running. Now even though it isn't official the shop owner does everything in his power to help me out with product price breaks and labor.
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Soory HHR, I ninja edited on you before you posted.
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Do you mean connect 2 coils in parallel and bridge 2 amps together?
Yes, that is a common practice, but again. Amps have to be identical and carefully gain matched.
Yep, thats what I meant. Now that I think about it I remember reading on powerbass's website they recommended bridging 2 of the 4000's on each coil of the 4xl sub.
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I wonder how well using dual 4's and bridging the coils on two amps would work, Seems like that would be the way to do it. I'm not sure though as I have never done it myself.
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I have a presario m2000 laptop, Runs fine when the power cord is plugged in. But when I unplug it after a few minutes it shuts downs suddenly. Straight to black.
I've tried a brand new fully charged battery and it still does it. I also went into power settings and set it to max battery. That didn't change anything.
Any ideas? thnx.
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To make the angled part easy you could use the wedge enclosure calculator at 12volt.com.
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port wars is pointless. it means nothing
Yep, I scored a 167ish I think last time I did it. But it's fun. Some one did tell me it can ruin the mic though.
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My unprofessional opinion would look at all options both bankruptcy and the debt consolidation stuff. Watch out for agencies though. I've heard that some are a bit shifty and it costs you. No one should be embarrassed about this kind of thing as we all have ups and downs all through life.
If anything blame the damn government. They built our financial institution to mess us up. Ever wonder why finances isn't required in school like it should be?
On a somewhat related note I remember several years ago my cousin went bankrupt. Almost immediately his wife had a new suv and he had a new sports car and credit cards. He said it was because they know you can't go bankrupt again. /shrug, I don't know though things may have changed.
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Nothing sleazy about it, I know a couple of people that make a pretty good living as resellers.
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The first subs I ever had was two type E 12's, I liked them. They hit hard and sonded good for the money (free). Nothing wrong with Alpine subs I don't think.
As a matter of fact I would choose Alpines over Kicker as far as "Stereo store subs" go. But thats me. i'm sure others whose first subs were Kickers feel differently ;p
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epic 160
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted · Edited by alvitae
I've had the 160 for some time now. With the same system in the same car I have hit as low as 142 and as high as 162. What I have found is it is temparature sensitive.
When temp is moderate i score the same as my local shops meter. Cold i do less and when the car is hot as hell in the summer I max it out.
Edit: I have mine wired to a cig lighter plug so I can pull it toss it in another car whenever.