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lunari

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Posts posted by lunari

  1. thanks agian!!! and yea i had the extra rockford sticker layin round so i threw that in there for ya:) g

    Thanks for that btw, anywho. I have it all hooked up, seems to work perfect! Although, the stock electrical system in the wife's corsica could barely keep the amp on before the alternator started kicking the battery some juice.

    The amp itself though, absolutely perfect as far as I can tell. Everyone should feel comfortable buying from Bass14, absolutely perfect. Also, I can't stress this enough.. This man knows how to PACK for shipping!

    Thanks for the great experience,

    Anthony

  2. Quite a few good things to say. Great communication, Fast shipping (was here a day early!), Perfect packing! There is just not enough good things to say. I bought a Rockford Fosgate T10001BD from Bass14, it arrived in the exact condition described. Everything was included just like it was a new amp (even the RF sticker!). I would never hesitate to do business with him again.

    I have yet to test the amp (need to run to the store to grab a side post battery terminal), as soon as I get back and hook it up I'll post back. But if the rest of the experience is any indication, it will be just fine.

    Thanks for the great experience,

    Lunari

  3. Well, depending on what you were wanting to do, 1st thing if you live in Texas you need to fill out with the Texas work force commission and then

    go to where ever you are wanting to work at. Alot of these companys down South are begging for good and clean workers. Alot of Rigs such as

    Nabors, Greywolf, GreyStone, Patterson, Unit, Scan these are just a small few in the local area and they are allways hiring. Without a degree

    hands down there is almost no place you can start the 1st day and make $18+ an hour.

    I was wondering about the service side of it, other than the actual drilling etc. We have Nabors, Pool, and Patterson around here mostly. Although you see some Halliburton guys occasionally.

    Lunari

  4. Alright, since the local lumberyards don't have any MDF at the moment, I figure I should order some new tools so I won't have to borrow them from other people when the MDF finally is available. I don't need these to last forever, but having them be able to work for at least a few builds would be nice! Next paycheck I will probably be ordering these (~10 days), think I will need anything more than this for simple box building? There is a budget here (cheap as possible while still getting nice results), since I won't be building very many boxes. I already have an 18v drill (and bits) so I'm good there.

    Plunge Router

    Jasper Model 270 Jig

    3 Piece Carbide Tip Straight Router Bit Set

    Small Workstation

    Spring Clamps

    Countersink Bit

    9" Square

    7-1/4" Circular Saw with laser

    24" Level

    50" Contractor's Clamp

    All this stuff comes to around $250 which I don't think is bad at all. Opinions? Anything that I don't really need? Anything I'm missing?

    Thanks,

    Lunari

  5. Working on a Rig :clapping:

    I am a Mud Engineer "aka chemical Specialist" for Halliburton/Baroid, Working in the Oilfield period is some of the best money a person can make.

    I have a Degree in Business Adm/Marketing and I went into the Service side of the Oilfield and the money is unbeatable per the hours you work.

    Working on a rig as a Tool pusher/Driller/Derrick Hand you can make $18 - 22+ per hour and usually work a 7 on 7 off schedule. Get in my field

    and you work 6 to 8 hours a day more than 3/4 of it driving and you can make 10k easy a month. At this point in time the Oilfield in

    Texas/Louisiana/mississippi is unbeatable. The money is almost to good to be true but if you are good at what you do and you really try and

    apply yourself the money comes and comes! I love the Oilfield the view changes daily and I dont wear a tie or a damn suit. Hit me up if you have

    any questions :rolleyes:

    That doesn't sound bad at all. How would someone go about getting into a position like that?

    Thanks,

    Lunari

  6. Okay, I didn't get a chance to start on it today. I redesigned the box it sits around 3 cubes, tuned to 33 hz, with 13 sq in or port per cube. I also pulled the subs, amp, and cap out of the car and measured the space I have to work with. I would also like to redo some of the wiring before putting the new box back in. Hopefully I will get a chance to get started on it tomorrow.

    Pioneer%20cab%20v2.JPG

    Lunari

  7. BUMP

    What will work to fix this? What kind of adhessive? I this crazy clue is out of the picture since its glass and metal. Any Ideas? What do they use to stick it on there in the first place?

    Thanks

    Go to your local Napa, Checker, Autozone (whatever is in your area), they should sell mirror repair kits for pretty cheap. It's basically a kind of epoxy to stick it back on there. Shouldn't be more than $5.

    Lunari

  8. u can always turn down the amp to put out the power you want it to

    That's the plan for now, have the box already designed for the Pioneers in the wife's car I just need to build it now. Also, I was looking at the Blazer, I want to keep the rear seats so it looks like I won't be able to fit 2 18s in a proper sized box (didn't take measurements, it might be possible.. anyone know?). So I might just be sticking with a single 18 for it.

    Some of the other plans include a 98+ front end conversion, possibly dropping it a few inches, or even bags eventually? Who knows! :)

    Lunari :hairtrick:

  9. I'm no expert but... I'll run it through BassBoxPro and post the optimal enclosure (according to it). I'll post one for higher output, and if you want one for a flatter frequency response.

    Here it is:

    It's 1" MDF with a double baffle making the front be 2" thick, sealed boxes need to be as strong as possible, also be sure to use glue along with the screws during assembly and to run either some silicon or extra glue along all the seams on the inside to stop the possibilities of air escaping. Also be sure to seal very well around where the wire exits so there isn't an air leak there either.

    marquettefan247%20spl.JPG

  10. While I wait to get the parts for my Blazer I am redoing the setup in the wife's car. In there now is a 400w Mobile Authority (early 90s MA audio) amp, and two Pioneer TS-W34C low end Pioneers in a sealed box. She doesn't want/need anything too loud but with the sealed box and the low wattage of the amp it seems to just run out of juice too early for my liking. The plan for now is to build a ported box (for more efficiency) that I have designed right around 3 cubes net, tuned to 33hz for daily listening. I want to see just how much I can pull out of this setup. Because of the low wattage and fairly low output I will just be using 1/2 inch MDF. I will include the design made with BassBoxPro 6, and Google Sketchup.

    I would like to get started on this hopefully on Monday, and with my limited amount of tools I plan on having the local lumber yard do the cutting for me. It will be assembled with screws, wood glue, and I am planning on running along all the interior edges with silicon. All in all, a very simple build trying to extract the most from what is already there. Just for fun when my amp arrives for the Blazer build I might just have to hook it up and see what kind of punishment it can deal to these Pioneers in their new environment.

    tsw34c%20box.JPG

    Lunari :hairtrick:

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