Punkeyboozter
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Posts posted by Punkeyboozter
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So im just getting into it, and I KNOW I'm not the only one on this forum that does it, but are there any mountain bikers out there?
I got a deal on a full suspension specialized about 2 months back and now I'm hooked!
It's a
FSR XC
Just upgraded the handlebars to some Ritcheys, ditched the V-brakes for some Shimano disks with Aztec rotors and ordered some fireeye PJ acr pedals off amazon for a good deal.
I do a lot of trail rides and some downhill stuff, nothing major, just to stay in shape.
Show your bikes and post your ride pics here!
Here's my bike,it ain't much but it's a shit ton of fun
And here's a mountain view of a trail from 2 weeks ago.
Why the long stem and the seat pushed back so far? Bike 2 small?
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I was huge into down hill, I use to ride bmx bikes but getting to 6ft and 235 changed that lol
I started with a specialized rockhopper, 6" humvee style forks, solid rear. Disc front V rear, great bike, better for flat style riding. I've ridin all types of styles, and down hill is my fav... I was hardcore into flat land/dirt jump bmx bikes.
I ran a custom full suspension schwinn for a while until I got shot. Great bike, best for down hill though. 3-4" rear travel and 6-8 front, dampening on max since I weighed a good bit compared to other riders. Damn I miss it. I'll try to find pics if I can
I'll take speed shifts(thumb index) over grips shifts btw
who need gears any way
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I wanted a dd -1 but my girlfriend instead told me she was gonna me clothes. I bought my self a snap-on 3/8 impact. But I might order myself a dd 1 Friday when I get paid. I got her an iPhone 4s tho: /
i figure someone's gotta buy me clothes, may as well be her because I hate shopping and I can't ever find anything I like... by that I mean anything she would let me wear LOL. Snap-on is good ish, bro, good choice.
All I want I'm sure I'll never get... time to work on my little build. Doesn't fail, when I plan to work on it, suddenly some family emergency visit to the mall comes up.
I know what you mean. When you make time to work on your own vehicle something away happens and you have to rush and half ass it go the moment. The impact works wonders for removing seats and doing train horns its the strongest drill I've used with a 14. 4 battery.
mmmm train horns
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In the last weeks i was at a motorshow and saw a show of carwrapping with colourchemefoiles. Looked very good and clean, but idk
how much $$$ it is for a car. Maby it´s cheaper than painting.
Its about the same as painting.
Around here they ask about $1000 to do the whole car in 3M and about 100bucks for roof or hood covering.
Paint from authorized dealers are about $200 per panel and around $100 if done at auto shops.
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I buy all the good shit I want myself.
Does not mean im hoping for something.
Dynaudio speakers
a Boat
A playboy mention at the beach with good surf
a private yet
a dead horse
4 18's for HT
Some Crown Amps
unlicensed AK47
More beer
Porsche
CBR
Morel speakers
ear plugs
profanity filter for my PC mic
Forester
mini server rack
lots of bikes with or without engines
P90
socks
bigger living room
Ben & Jerry's
pool noodle
Thats just a few that came to mind in no particular order.
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The amp is not a 2 channel amp ...its "internally "wired as a single channel .So it doesnt matter which positive or negative you use .
Yeap thx i thought it might be a load thing, its all good now. Cheers
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what help do you need? Setting the gains wiring?
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Yeah thanks guys.
For now its single sub Duel D1 and single amp wired to 2ohms.
SAz3000D to be exact.
I have always wired it like +(con) - (c0n) -(emp) +(emp) for single sub use.
However when I checked it sort of looks to me like the lines are going directly to +(con) and +(con)with nothing to the -
Seems strange to me for a diagram that other wise looks very detailed.
*edit on second glance on pic 1 page 8 clearly show the - connection I suppose the two + connections threw me off.
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Can u guys pls help to clear things up for me?
Ive always hooked my speakers to the + and the - u know as one would ussually do, but then ilooked at the sundown mannual and see they state a + to + connection for 2ohm load.
http://www.sundownaudio.com/pdfs/SAZ1000D_1500D_3000D.pdf
Can any one explain this to me
Thx
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Okay - I am going to start production next week... and the 6.5" will be in 8 ohm OR 4 ohm configuration (which will eventually show up on 8s and 10s).
Realistically what will the expexted delivery date be? Will there be an audible difference between the 4 and the 8?
Thx
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read post #5 in that thread, it might indicate something to you.
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I dont know but based on the price of recones id assume the price of the sum of raw parts should be less.
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Can't seem to find them.. "Foreverbumpin" and "PSI" right?
what motor do you have? might be able to get a softparts replacement kit or a recone mostly per-assembled.
which is what many of the china manufactures do any way. Not many build the subs from start to end.
Haha, well i'd like to buy the motor, buy a basket, voice coil and start putting it together if they would sell those parts. I don't have a motor right now, just looking into how much it would all be for future reference, most likely after Christmas.
thats cool, just though id let you know that some reputable manufactures dont even truly make their own.
Suppose the price will come down to which motor you end up getting. Monster sub re-cones will run you over a 100 bucks so assuming you can get the right parts id guess you will be under that by a hair assuming you dont get screwed as these parts are usually mass produced and sold.
To start maybe buy some cheap speakers and take them apart and get a good understanding but sounds like you have a good head on shoulders so it might just work out if you stick to it even if the first try dont work as planned.
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Damn you get paid to surf the forums all day? SWEEET.
...on the side did the Singapore distributor contact you guys for some alpha damp pro? Not sure if he can be trusted yet and I need the things now. Feel free to PM to prevent further thread jack
He does lots more than just forum surf. Lol email and see. He is all over the place
I wish all I did was surf the web all day, that would be fun... boring but fun.
No I do a bit of everything, graphics, technical gibberish, customer service, and anything else Ken and Max can think of.
Right now I've been working on our new instructions for the products since they're a bit out of date.
As for our Singapore distributor (Antonie I assume?), I do not know as I am not the one who deals with our dealers/distributors. I would say shoot an email to them and ask.
done deal
thanks
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Can't seem to find them.. "Foreverbumpin" and "PSI" right?
what motor do you have? might be able to get a softparts replacement kit or a recone mostly per-assembled.
which is what many of the china manufactures do any way. Not many build the subs from start to end.
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So I understand stop rattles yada yada but.I'm getting ready to start a DC build and want this to be above average install/material wise.
1) what exactly does deadener help do besides stop the ugly noise outside
2) I know everyone loves second skin and Ive never heard anything bad about it so what product exactly should I look into?
3) I don't have enough to do the whole truck can in one go, so what's the most critical areas? It'll be subs up port forward
Thanks guys, I'm a big noob at this level
Sorry for the late response time, been busy today.
1. The main reasoning behind using deadener is to get rid of the strutter-bornce noise found inside vehicles. This noise comes from a multitude of sources, including the engine, transmission, road and tire, exhaust, etc.. You get rid of these vibrations (which causes the noise) you create a much quieter and better listening environment.
2. Depends on the vehicle and goal. The vibration mats and liquids are used to control panel resonance/vibrations but won't actually stop or block air-borne sound/noise which can be caused by exhaust, road, and tire noise, as well as wind. For this type of noise, use of an actual barrier is needed, something like mass loaded vinyl.
3. Just like several other members have said, there is no need to go balls out and do 100% coverage. 25% is really all that is needed.
Doors are my first area to treat, followed by the floor, and roof. In a truck I would do the back wall right after doing the doors.
And thank you guys for the awesome input, makes my job just that much easier!
Damn you get paid to surf the forums all day? SWEEET.
...on the side did the Singapore distributor contact you guys for some alpha damp pro? Not sure if he can be trusted yet and I need the things now. Feel free to PM to prevent further thread jack
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That looks like a good match without knowing much about the rest of the system.
Sounds like a interesting project, have some pics?
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so my dad has these old ass small cabinet speakers from the late 80's and I am looking to replace the woofers for christmas as I completely shredded the surround on one and the other is starting to go.
sub is a realistic/radioshack 40-1016 8" subwoofer
was able to find some specs__ http://support.radioshack.com/support_audio/doc62/62646.pdf
Anyone have any suggestions for a good s/q replacement that will still have good bass response? Trying VERY HARD to keep my budget limit topped out at $100 for (2) subs but im not too sure if thats possible.
The radio shack one is actually a replacement for the original in one of the speakers (original has no specs but this one does and it sounded just as good)
Thanks!
---Andrew
This might work
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-200
but based on the specs of the driver you listed it looks like you are looking more towards a mid-bass driver then a sub driver.
What speakers you use or at least state the freq response.
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How many screws to get the panels of?
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How much will have to change to make it ht optimised? 12 only?
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bump if anyone knows someone or has some
Send Fi A Mail im sure they will help you and might just be able to predrill the basket for you if they happen to have a similar moter lying around
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need guidance.. need help
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
you might be able to buy a fuse holder and a battery clamp with that kind of money.
Look at the bright side at least your car wont burn down.
Seriously though...that budget must grow by a big margin.
Subs run around 300USD
Amps at least 300USD
If you really want to be cheap buy a bazooka or one of those cheapy subs that cost about 80bux but you are better off saving a bit and doing it right.
Skip the tandoori and buy a naan and you should be there in no time.