creyc
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Posts posted by creyc
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I think I'm going to be in a similar situation soon. I've got two SAZ-3000D's as well and was thinking about running Sundown SA-12 subs.
Can I ask what numbers are you hitting with the current setup? Is it setup for music or SPL?
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I hope you're joking...
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I'm trying to find a good small computer to live in my car and interface my dash-mounted 7" touchscreen.
I plan on fitting it either below the console or under the passenger seat of my blazer so it needs to be small. I'm open to either buying a complete machine ready to run, or building it from parts. It should be around 10x10 inches or so. I'm not looking for blazing performance but it should keep up with running iTunes, and playing divx/encoded videos smoothly.
It doesn't need a CD rom drive either, since everything will play off memory or an externally mounted CD drive.
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Pretty cool so far! How do these things sound on music?
How did they take the power of the two 3500s, and did they take this power for more than burps?
So this sub is more of an SPL sub than the Nightshade correct?
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Expensive ass diode!I wanna see the guts of one of these MLA things.
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Wouldn't a MLA module be smart enough to back off on the voltage a bit when it starts creeping up higher? Seems like a good feature to add...
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add a voltage regulator that is adjustible. problem solved
Agree, or if your alternator has an adjustable regulator (like my mechman), turn it down a volt.
Read the manual/specification of your batteries, most do NOT like charging at 15v!
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It depends on the state you live in. They're legal in my state (Florida) for example...
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I can vouch for everything skittles said, indeed amps get LESS efficient at lower ohms, but put out more power.
Most amp efficiencies are rated at 4 ohms, say 86%. At 1 ohm this same amp might only be 70% efficient.
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Anyone know if you can jailbreak a first gen iPod touch?
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Where are you measuring ground from though? That can make a difference.
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Just run it at 2 ohms? Will work perfectly fine.
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Not to mention running 0.5 ohms impedance will void your amps warranty and cause a MUCH higher draw on your electrical system.
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It sounds like they're dual 2 ohm subs and you have a 1-ohm stable monoblock amp.
With just one sub, sure you could wire it to 1 ohm and at the amp. But with with TWO subs, there is NO way to wire them to get a 1 ohm final load on the amplifier, no matter how you wire them or which terminals on the amp you use.
Sorry to burst your fun bubble!
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Saw this earlier today, kinda interesting actually. It's weird how people get so into you tube but I guess it's a real money maker?
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Use flexible conduit (like carflex or liquidtight) instead of rigid PVC.
As you can see, liquidtight is some strong stuff! It will take the abuse of getting hit by debris under the car and do an excellent job of protecting the wires. It's made up to 4" diameter but you should be fine with much smaller as well. Might have to order through an electric supply house if you can't find it at home depot.
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Thanks guys. I'll try chop mat and a roller today.
And they're outside-corners where the box wraps around the wheel well.
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There's a few spots in my new wall build that have outside corners that need fiberglassing and they've all be giving me headaches.
I can glass up the inside seams of a regular box, no problem. But with these outside-seams everytime I wrap the cloth around the edge I get a large air bubble on both sides of the corner that will NOT stick down. The cloth won't wrap tightly enough over the sharp edge and it's giving me tons of extra work to fix it.
Does anyone have a solution for this? Sand the sharp edges down soft maybe? Use chopped matt instead of cloth? Anything?
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JL's W7 isn't a BAD subwoofer. It's a decent piece of equipment it's just not "the best sub out there" like some people are often fooled to believe.
If you can get it for a good price they're not bad.
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Guys because this is more or less a ground pounder I'm leaning towards running more smaller subs. Like (
Sundown SA-12s...What would be the sound/performance difference between doing this, or running two beastly Mayhems or alum HDC3s?
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I guess my application would fall under the category of a ground pounder. So with that in mind, would I be better off running many lower power subs or just a couple high-power subs, like aluminum HDC3s or BTLs or Lvl 4xl?
I have my own opinion on the matter, but at least one credible person suggests I stick with the two BIG subs. I worry about long term reliability being a daily vehicle.
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Might consider HDC3s...I need to really sit down and have a good listen to see if I can put up with how they sound for daily music duty. Last time I heard them I wasn't all that impressed... :\
And yes I've got the 18" BLs. Great subs, pound hard and still sound decent. But there's no way they will take 3000 rms a piece. (which I didn't know I'd be running when i bought the subs!) lol. 4 BLs should take the power just fine, but I'm having a hard time finding two more. Might need to start fresh...
So keep the ideas going! HDC3s definitely an option...
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I have a feeling my current subs wont last long once I install my second sundown 3000, so I'm considering starting over with sub choices.
I don't care how many or what size subs, whatever will work best. And it's a daily driver so it has to handle the power all day long, and play music well.
Finally, budget is around $1200
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I bought newls1's already, need 2 more.
And I hope it doesn't come down to buying new subs just to recone... :\
Expensive ass diode!
Sundown SA-12s...
help with installing remote kill switch
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Essentially yes.
All you're doing is putting the switch in-line with the remote wire.
HU--------SWITCH--------------AMP
(sometimes pictures are worth a thousand words : )