TechSys
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Posts posted by TechSys
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O.k. Steve. With the Sunflash, how much of a shade are we talking? Is it something that I will not be able to use under a carport (no sides) or is it as long as no direct sunlight hits it, it'll be good?
Sounds like a good deal and has got me interested. I don't know if I can wait 2-3-4 weeks though, I am needing to do door panels and headliner, as well as seal off my enclosure form the back of the van.
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Try this and see what happens. 2cubes per sub for 12cubes. 24cubes on the ported side tuned somewhere between 40-45Hz.
The sealed section develops the lower frequencies and the ported section develops the high end frequencies. You could, possibly, bring up the sealed to 2.5 or 3cubes per sub, but keep the ported section doubled (2.5 x 6 would be 15, so 30 ported. 3 x 6 would be 18, so 32 ported).
That's about as far as I, perosnally, would take it.
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VentedSUV (TheOneToDo)
10 ft3 (283L) + port displacement, Fb=35Hz
Port: 150 in2 (968cm2) area x 21” (53.3cm) long
Power Handling = 4500W Peak
15sq.in per ft^3
VentedCompact (MinimumEnclosureVolume)
5 ft3 (142L) + port displacement, Fb=35Hz
Port: 60 in2 (387cm2) area x 14.5” (36.8cm) long
Power Handling = 5000W Peak
12sq.in per ft^3
VentedSPL (MaximumEnclosureVolume)
10 ft3 (283L) + port displacement, Fb=56Hz
Port: 300 in2 (1935cm2) area x 9” (22.9cm) long
Power Handling = 10000W Peak above 56Hz
30sq.in per ft^3
That should give you an idea. Your box is 5.702Ft^3 with a 8.9sq.in. So yes, it a little on the small side.
A large volume of air pushed through a relatively small opening may generate turbulence, or a chuffing sound.
A small port, although it does not have to be very long, must move a lot of air through a very small opening. This make turbulence more of a difficult thing to cope with. But, it also makes for a more non-linear resistance to air movement. In other words, as output increases, the resistance to air flow increases, and the benefits of a port decrease, making the output look more like a leaky sealed system. The larger the port, the less it happens, but the characteristic is always there.
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I tried to relax and watch it last night, but got interrupted. It's not fun trying to watch a movie, at home, when your kid keeps asking "Why Daddy?".
I made it as far as him pigging out in the restaurant. When he smashed the glass to ask for another one. So yea, I missed a lot, so far. Will try to watch it again tomorrow
And don't bother asking, you won't get my copy. lol
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Well, hmmm...
Stock 0-600 or Super Stock 0-600 from what I can tell
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Well...
Soundstream is great, honestly. I run the xxx-4000d on 12volt and it does what it's rated for. Good and solid. The D tower amps are awesome and at a great price. They put out the rated power or a little higher. The Picasso series is great. Hell, all the lines are very good.
Of course I may be a little biased since I am also sponsored by them, but you asked.
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And one again.. hehehe. I feel like I'm following you now.
Love the build. Van, like I said somewhere else, is about how I want to go with mine. Paint scheme is awesome, yet, basic (so far). I did see you on the Astro dedicated forum tonight, please post pics of the van over there if you don't mind.
What rims are on your van? I've seen them before but just can't place where.
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I thought you had 6 splxHx subs and 3 dtr 1.3400 amps.
Doesn't matter though, car is still loud.
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I'll also say 8gauge. I use stinger 8gauge power wire for my subs.
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I run those SS 4000d amps. Love them and work real nice on 12volt. Make sure charge voltage does not go above 18v or the amps will shutdown. I didn't know that until I got mine installed. Hell, SoundStream didn't know it until I got mine installed.
I charged my 16volt system at 17.9, seemed to work out great. Iraggi probably knows a few little tricks to get the best out of the electrical though.
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Thanks..
At least I was sort of on the right track.. heheh.
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SoundStorm EV3000d will never output that kind of power. 2x30amp fuses times 14.4volts = 864wrms \ .707 = 1222.065MAX.
I think my math is right. Feeling kinda sick right now, so could be off.
At least it has 1/0 power inputs. That's a plus.
You'd actually be better off getting the EV-5000d. It comes with a 175amp fuse. Even though it probably still wouldn't output the rated power, it looks like it'd be closer.
175x14.4=2520watts/.707=3564.36MAX
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Swiss rolls and nutty bars. We go through those way to fast here.
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Nicely put together. Glad you touched on the, "Ready, Set, Go" part of it. Not many people know about that. I usually start right when I see "Set" leave the display but probably could start a little bit before that.
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Getting it now, will let you know what I think as soon as I read it. I like the idea though.
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Even though Peal N Seal is self adhesive, you can still add more adhesive to it for better stickyness. This is what I am going to try with the 3 rolls of protect-o-wrap I have (basically peal n seal under a different name and a little bit thicker). Going to try find a spray adhesive that has damn good heat tolerances, which might be a pain to find. Spray it on the clean surface that I'll be attaching the stuff to, let it tack up a couple minutes, then apply the stuff. Then use a heatgun or torch to pretty much melt it into place.
We shall see
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Ceramic Tile and adhesive. Make the box a lot sturdier and might look good at the same time.. hehe
or use the floating wood flooring stuff and glue it to the enclosure. That way you'll get a nice stained wooden floor look. People might want to walk on you box though.
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Not sure if some of you would be able to get this one. Mobile Electronics Magazine. The Link
It's for people who work in the industry. I've had my subscription for about 10 years now. It's not you normal store bought ricer mag either. This subscription is free. have fun.
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There are tons of e-cigs out there. Mine is an Njoy Npro rn4081 (I think that's the number). It works great, when it's charged up. I have a battery on charge right now and using the other one.
And as far as flavors, there are probably more of them than a person could count. I've tried grape, which was o.k. but I stick to my full flavor due to wanting or needing the full effect of smoking a real cigarette without all the disadvantages.
You may have to play around a while with different flavors and amount of nicotine strength. That's until you get something comfortable for you. You may also experience a sick feeling after a couple days of using just the e-cig. I'm not sure, but I've been told the reason I got sick after I started using an e-cig is my body was detoxing itself and getting rid of all the crap that's in real cigarettes. That was 3 weeks ago. Today I am feeling 98% better than I have. I can breathe better and food is tasting better.
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A darker version of the current skin would be great. I love browsing full screen forums. Not those that are scrunched in the center of the screen.
However.... So far the forum is faster loading. I used to have to wait a few seconds on my work machine to see the forum. Today I clicked on the bookmark and boom it was there. Real nice.
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The e-liquid is much better as I found out from that very same forum. I got a 30ml bottle of 36mg nicotine full flavor for around $25. It's pretty much like taking a drag off an analog. Good hit and vapor.
When you get a couple empty cartridges get the liquid. you'll save yourself a lot of headache. I've found out that a medicine dropper for childrens motrin works great for refilling the carts. 2 drops and done.
You probably won't see the full pack of smokes per cart like is usually advertised. I see about a half a pack, but... In 2 weeks I went from smoking 3 packs a day to buying 5 packs in the whole 2 weeks. One hell of a difference.
One of my problems is making sure I keep the batteries charged. I've got 2 batteries but forget to charge them at night. When that happens I end up going back to analogs.
And whatever you do, don't give up trying. This is the easiest way to cut down or even quit smoking. It just has a learning learning curve to it, but once you get the hang of it, you'll do fine.
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The way I have understood tunnels is the tunnel itself is the port. That is where you tune it. I'm not totally sure on that though and hopefully somebody with more knowledge on tunnels will chime in as I want to learn all there is about tunnels. Here is some info I got from somewhere else.
For a ported tunnel
in esscence a tunnel is to low tuned ported boxes firing into a center camber witch is use to give a gain in the highs aswell as the lows. the center chamber idealy needs to be wider than 10 inch. and the port tuning for the center chamber doesent realy effect the lows just make the opening of the tunnel the full size of the center chamber. if your only using 2 subs best off puting the subs at the back of the tunnel closer the rear ports. take into consideration that firing the main center chamber towards the back of the car will help apon playing the lows and give some cabin gain. if its a walled tunnel then ovosly fire forward towards the dash. depending on the center chamber size it will change tuning smaller the center chamber the lower the tuning and the wider center chamber makes the tuning higher. if you can get the over all bandwith within 100 to 150 it should play well.This one is after I asked about the tunnel BILTD did in his Astro. The one that's posted here. One awesome setup.
well if u are going with that design, its not really an 6th order bandpass so tunning isnt usually planned when making an tunnel and if u are going to tune to 37hz using this parallel design id only reccomend that tunning if you are not looking for any low end at all. having the ports onthe front plate like that is similar too an 6th order parallel but it isnt. look at steve meades caddy design, its the same concept. if you are looking to do big numbers id still take the tunning down to at least 32hz. those parallel designs love to peak high vs an series tuned tunnel or 6th order(port at the back of the enclouser)don't go three deep Wink in this type of alignment.it is all about phase dude. off loading and out put restriction are the problems caused.Hope that helps.
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I've always had pretty decent usage of Boss Audio equipment, however, don't expect to win any competitions with it (unless you use A LOT of it).
Right now I have a PD-2000 amp running my mids and highs without a problem. It's supposed to be .5ohm stable in stereo and we shall see when I get my new door panels installed.
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God I would like to run 4 of those at SBN '10. Figure a SS xxx-6500d on each sub or maybe a 15000d per 2 subs would be the way to go for me.
Anxiously awaiting to see if I will be able to afford them.
Rolling Thunder Upgrade from 2 SK-2500.1's to 2 SK-3500.1's
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
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Now that is pitiful. A 3x show and they don't even have the right equipment to do a 1x show properly.