Crump
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Posts posted by Crump
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I see that the new bl's have a better motor in them, and the Bl section is locked up. If one will be much better then the other, should i just get the Fi Q. (assuming its still the old model.) I have a 12" Bl dual 2 with cooling, so could i just get a Fi Q dual 2? Will they be similar? I dont want to mix the Old and new Bl models ( i saw that thread) So is the fi Q pretty much the same as the Bl, but with less options?
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indeed. what are you tired of that btl already?
you need more cone area for how much power you got anyways.
Its a Bl, but no im not tired of it, i just like the build more than having the system. Im buying a slightly usedT-1000 so i can actually turn the gain up without the sub fuckin up. The birthsheet was 1375 @ 1 ohm @ 13.6 volts. So a Lvl 4 Xl would be sick. However i was planning on two lvl 3 12's but for a little more money i can get a much beefier sub with a chance to give more power later, instead of the other way around.
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but if you can fit 4 then do that.
Yeah im sure i get maybe 4.5 if need be, who needs trunk space when you got bass?
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i would do 3.5
cool i emailed him anyway but i figured as much
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I could e-mail rusty cuz he always replys fast, but im just throwing ideas around? so anybody know? I am thinking close to 3-4 ported
?
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then it might be blown
x2
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thats a ported box.
a tline has a huge port that is around equal size of the woofer in square inches i believe its a few FEET long.
or sometin like that
lol well, anyway i hope that 17" fits into my trunk... i had to put my box on its side to get it into the trunk. It was 17" height 15" depth...
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I can't really tell what you are describing, but it isn't a t-line.
Its like Port in middle, sub on either side of it. I thought it was called a T line cuz the port is like a T, but idk but you think it would work?
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print screen your re box design so we can see what your design looks like
its only the L design i cant find a program to make a T line. But its the Re Box calculator. Heres what you have to type in (dont have a printer with ink)
Width 20.25
Height 17
Width 1+2 17
Port width 2
Port length L2 13
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That's enough for 2 cubes.
How exactly is this going to be part of a T-line??? I don't understand.
I think im doing it right. I made the width for the box 20.25 on this "box" so i can tune it right. And then the other side has the width of 18.25, so each side where the sub is 18.25 inchs and a 2 inch port. for a total width of 38. Is that right? And do you think i will have any port noise? with that width of port? 2 lvl 3's will be in this box.
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What's the sq. inches of the port? (h x w)
2x15.5= 31
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I got 2.039 cubic feet or 3523.813 cubic inchs with a port volume of 961 inchs. The port width is 2 inchs and is tuned to about 34 htz. I used the RE box calculator. The box is for 1 Dc lvl 3 and will be used in a T line enclosure, this is for one of the sides. And do you think ill experience any Port noise? My 1st box had a 1.5 inch port and has no port noise, but this will push more air. Any suggestions would be apprieciated.
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definitly the router and jasper jig, if you want that hella clean look on every box you do, thats the way to go. And you'll get the hang of it so setting it up will take less and less time. Jasper Jig Ftw
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if done right the level threes will be louder due to the greater cone area, but thats assuming you have enough volume in the box and a big enough port.
yeah the wattage to them will be 1000 rms, BUT its fosgate so ill have to see the birthsheet, so probably like 1300 watts or so to the two lvl 3's. Dc says to give 1.5 cubic feet per woofer, and i plan on a little more than that. Tuned to about 32-34. I'll be trying a T line box (im guessing thats what its called) With sub on either side of the port. But i am having problems with the tuning, anyone know of a calculator i can use?
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maby im wrong i dont know cant find but buy a new fi and have it in dual ones or 4s and recone the other
well i dont think fi has a dual 4, Bl. This topic was just to let me know what would be louder. 2 lvl 3's or 1 BL
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theres away let me find you a diagram
ok
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Like i said i can't wire to one ohm on one amp. With 2 Dual 2 Ohm woofers.... i would need one amp per dual 2 sub to go to 1 ohm and get the wattage i want
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you would wire both subs togeather to one ohm why couldnt you run both if you could run both dc on one you could run both fis on one if you want to get a 2nd amp you could or stick with one and go bigger
How could i wire two dual 2's to 1 ohm on one amp? I dont want to go to .5 ohm nor 2. And if i got the lvl 3's they would be dual 4's. Wire them in Parrallel and get 1 0hm. No opinion on one Bl or 2 Lvl 3's? I dont want to buy two new amps, cuz i think my T-1000 is on the way down, i am only willing to buy the P-1000 for the 2 Lvl 3's
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As I remember from a previous thread the RF knob is a bass frequency boost.
That is why there are two knobs on the controller.
The first knob is in essence the gain of the amp.
When you want to boost the level of a certain frequency you turn the first knob up.
The second knob is the frequency you want to boost... higher frequencies are more towards the right; lower towards the left.
If I read right on Rockford Fosgate website the knob the comes with the 3Sixty.2 brings the frequencies that you called bass in the program up making the bass more prevelant.
So in order from what I have gathered...
Steve turns the highs up on his head unit.
He then sends the signal from the head unit to his amps to make the bass a little stronger.
He raises the level more with the 3Sixty.2 and finally the boost which is "the button" that makes everything go dumb!
I could be off a little but this is mainly what he does. He has two controllers. One has one knob (3Sixty.2) and one has 2 knobs (master/slave RF boost knob).
Hope this helps
yes it does. Thanks bro.
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well instead of buying two new dc buy another fi and call it a day and if you want have the old sub reconed so when you play both they will have the same amount of time on then (theres my 2 cents) but what ever you do good luck and post pics
my one Bl is Dual 2 ohm, and my 1000 watt fogate amp is about done, if i get another dual 2 Bl I wouldnt be able to wire it to one amp. right? And i want to try to fiberglass
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I am going to guess the DC's (if everything is done correctly) But why have 2 systems? Get one that you are happy with and call it a day.
I enjoy the "build" more then having the system. And I have the T-1000, but i believe its about to pretty much stop working. It's been giving me problems latley, And its a different kind of project from the regular box. Its going to involve fiberglass, and thats something i would like to do. I like trying new stuff even though i may fail.
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So if i set my gains with the knob all the way up, am i at a lower risk of blowing a sub, then if i set the gain and then used the bass knob. (Rockford Fosgates ParaPunch Bass Knob)
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As of now i have 1 12" Fi BL, but am looking for a 2nd system that can be interchangeable. I am looking at 2 12" Dc LVL 3's. The Fi Bl is on a Rockford Fosgate T-1000-1 bd and the Dc's would be Rockford Fosgate P-1000. So in your opinion which would be louder. Both in a trunk.
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Poor advice...
One thing you could do is run new wires entirely. That's what I did and it's awesome always knowing.
If none of the colors match, just hook up the speaker anyways. Go through all the speaker leads at the head unit with a 9V battery and pop test each speaker. If the speaker moves out, you have the + on + and - on -. Hook it up accordingly. Otherwise, the leads are backwards on either battery or speaker. Adjust accordingly.
If no pop is heard or seen, there's either a short or you are not completing a circuit (i.e. you have wires from different speakers.)
The guy at my shop said run wires from the amp to the H/U and wire the speakers into the wire harness. Then with the stocked wires in the door + into the crossover + and the stocked - into the crossovers -. Is this way wrong?
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I Want This H/u But
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted
I need 3 Sets of RCA's ran to the H/U, and this one only has 2. I have rear channel, front channel and Subwoofer. If i need to use a processor so be it, but i cant find one i want for under 200 bucks on the internet. Is there a way to still use this H/U?