Sable Nave
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Posts posted by Sable Nave
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they wont last long if that keeps happening
I don't think they do IIRC, will go check
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Haha funniest shit ive heard in a long time
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Alright man, I should be there saturday and sunday, not sure yet, hit me up for a demo if you want
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I would be willing to rep for free rite now as I am low on funds, but would donate/ buy later on
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I would sport a dc audio shirt if you wanted rusty
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Lol, I want a shirt too!
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New Lights
HID's in motion on shit camera
Lights in the garage
Favorite Sub Video
Another
Came along way from here
First Vid of Subs
Old shit box
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hell i may just compete.. but i want some demos from a few people if i drive that far..
I should be there, I will give you a demo if I see you, I am only running at 325 Watts RMS right now, so don't be disappointed... It's still hella loud for the wattage I'm pushing tho
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Found out that the problem was that a bulb was seated sideways as suggested by Bangin Caddy, thanks for the help man! I had tried to install it with the bulb fitting the slits on the housing lining up with that of the bulb, but apparently I did not do so good of a job. I am about to go into town and eat, so I will take adjusted pics and vids
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are you getting "flicker"??
At first for about 5 seconds when it is heating up, then no
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Left lamp and housing
Right lamp, housing, and battery
Better View
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Here is a pic of them installed on low beam
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Another thing that just ran across my mind is to make sure your able to supply the hid ballasts with enough current.
Sometimes when going from a oem bulb to a hid setup the stock headlight wires that run from your headlight switch inside the car uses like a 16 gauge wire. You may not be able to carry enough current throw the wire to properly power the ballast which in return will allow for the bulbs to not be their brightest.
I wouldnt worry about voltage, since the ballasts can usally handle anywhere from 10 volts too 16 volts and do their rated light output, but if the current is not there, your lights wont be working properly.
This isnt on all vehicles however, only some.
Easy fix to that is wire in some relays.
Find out which wire goes to the switch (ie the positive headlight wire) scotch lock off of that (or cut and splice) and then run that to the relay.
Of coarse your going to have to ground out the relay and run a constant power wire for the relay from the battery.
You would proboly need 2 relays. 1 relay for both low beams, and 1 relay for both high beams.
It has one relay already, 2 ballasts, 2 bulbs, and I've grounded each of the wires that go to each bulb, put power to the relay, grounded the relay to my terminal on the battery. It only uses one of the original harnesses though, not sure why
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I just installed my 8000K bixenon HID kit in my sable, and I am having some problems with it IE: when I turn on my high beams my left lamp looks like it is on low beam, while my right beam looks like it is doing it how it should.
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What is the date and time of this event? Dad lives down there, might make a trip
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Hahaha thats some funny shit
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Mine worked fine, just follow the directions and it will work fine for you as well. Do NOT throw the directions away!
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if that one walmart link i posted will fix the problem ill be going to walmart now
Yes that would work, you would need three of them like you mentioned though
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Looks more like this
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosc...C4.html?tp=2001
I got mine at WalMart tho, not sure if you can find out if they have it in stock online
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where can i get one at local? i dont have time to wait for shipping
Try WalMart. Mine cost me $20
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ok well the blowthrough wont be finished for ar so i did a lil quick something in the f-150 off the stock deck
im using a crunch pzi 900.4 and a stetsom 2kd, i have 3 batteries, and stock battery up front and alternator...my stock voltage gauge dosnt move at all so i know its not dropping
its the stock deck and since everything is in for 2 days i didnt bother to change it so i bought these http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2102955 hooking them up to the speaker wire and using the rca's for the amp inputs and from the amp output on the crunch to the stetsom
now the problem, i cant turn it up past volume 4 on the stock deck before everything shuts off for a few seconds then kicks back on, on lower volumes it stays on just fine...its loud but subs are barely moving
do you think that thing from radio shack is the problem? am i gonna have to get a aftermarket deck?
all the help will be awesome im running outa time and cant wait to hear it full tilt
You need to purchase a LOC (line output converter), as the speakers are high level output, and hook up the LOC to the stock speaker wires. Then get some regular RCA's and run it from the LOC to the amp
Kicker Sx650.1
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted · Edited by Sable Nave
I have a Kicker 04SX650.1 amplifier up for sale, I paid $350 for it new back in June. I bought the SXRC for it for $120 and used it for about a month, so it would be included for $65. This has been an excellent amplifier, but I need an upgrade to power my 15's. Asking $225 for the amp, and would throw in the SXRC for a total of $275. If you buy both, you get the SXRC in the original box, and the SX650 with endcaps, but no box. One of the endcaps has some slight damage, but is not too noticeable.
The amp rack is not included
SX650.1
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...;Product_ID=288
SXRC
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1306