rawlins87
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Posts posted by rawlins87
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cool more people than i thought is responding
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Im from ohio and there isn't much around me. Columbus is the closest big city and Im not sure if they
even do anything there. But I would be down to join a team.
Same with me, im about 20 minutes from c-bus
Any Atlanta folks around here?:hairtrick:
i highly doubt it being that the title says ohio :tease:
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one sa8 on crazy power would be killer
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As title says. Trying to start at team or join a team in Ohio if that is possible. I've competed before and I'm going to get serious in the 2010 season and attend as many competitions as possible. I will be building a 149.9 class bass racer after christmas. :hairtrick:
Just wanting to get people together or see what it out there
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well nothing is set in stone as of yet. My buddies have bought a btl 18 and ssd 10 and I've built their boxes and was very impressed with the quality. The BTL was in 5.5 cubes and I KNOW if it would have been bigger the lows would have been better, even though it did do 147's.
I was goin to put the Q's in a smaller box than the BLs being that the BL will have a greater power handling.
I know i'm going to use FI as i have been impressed by their product, now i just want to know what would be better for my application.
Its going in a reg cab truck with a camper shell and will be walled off. So 150 should be relativly easy number to obtain. But im worried about being loud 35 hz and down----basically i want the system to be very flat response
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I have basically 80+ cubes to work with. So i was planning on doing a wall of 4 18s. 36-40 cubic feet
The amp will be a T4000 or if it comes out jan/feb it will be a saz-4500. Electrical will be there to support the power.
What im having trouble thinking about is whether to get the BL series or Q series. (it helps alot that now FI will have a black friday sale)
I know the BL's are more efficient, but will the lack of X-max mean quieter lows than the Q series??
I'm looking to build a loud demo vechicle that destorys the lows. Both BL and Q "should" easily both do 150+ in my setup (which i want to enter into the 150+ dB club) but, what would be louder 35hz and down. I play ALOT of slowed stuff (from decaf songs) so alot of the songs are 30-38hz range
Any help is appricated
Thanks, Josh
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Im a ford guy and work at a dealership, but those explorers were always problems. I drive a blazer
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and this is crazy you found 2/0 guage wire i had no luck finding any so i am doing a crap load of 1/0 runs
welding cable...you can get up to 4/0 gauge
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How do you like your Q's?
Any #'s
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Definitely use 0 gauge wire. Maybe even 0/0? I run 4 gauge and I have a 100 amp fuse. So id definitely get a higher rated fuse.
double ought= 2/0 not 0/0 --for future reference (would have in ordering wire)
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pretty old thread, and it was actually a joke---it was either page 14-15 or 30-31 iirc
still epic thread tho
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nope. just get a 4000wrms amp or two of the same amp and a maxxlink
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killer box man. what part of ohio are in located in? I'm near columbus
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how did you find the video of my system, lol
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200-300 is probably on the light side.
depending on what subs you use you could have 200+ in subs
i would say on average 500+
with well built walls in suvs (big setups) around 700-800
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dont mix subs, and it will have to be more than 3/4" and lots of bracing
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My premier has got 4v preamps while the non-permier had 2v
x2
I've always ran premiers and love em. Last Premier had a ipod hook-up b4 the regular pioneers did
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thanks to everyone that helped
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im pretty sure the way those boxes are made the weight is enough for it not to move anywhere
im sure your right under normal driving it won't
but "What if"?
sudden braking, or even a crash. I dont want to be a statistic lol
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depends, some vehicles vary. Try both, but if you dont have enough money to build two boxes i would say sub up port back. worked well in my bronco
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How do you guys secure the walls to the car so it doesnt become a moving box of death? lol
BTW how did steve secure the box for the hoopty? I've been thru the build log like 4 times and idk if im missing something or he doesnt have a pic of it
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port on pass side
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Not hating...just saying he's going to break things a couple times before he gets it right and that isn't going to be exactly cheap...
You also aren't taking into account that the parameters are very different from a fresh sub to when one is broken in fully...
how far off do you think?
How can i go about testing the parameters after the subs in broken in?
Wanting to join/start team here in OHIO
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
i would prefer not to join tdh