luism1983
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Posts posted by luism1983
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i currently have a rockford p400 for my mids and highs and a p500 for my sub. i've been thinking of upgrading to something a little more beefy and found the p1000. is it worth it? any good?
link to what i'm looking at.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9798_R...POWER-1000.html
yeah is worth it, is a lot more powerfull, than the p-series amps
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I second that! The Rf 1500BD or MC1500 Memphis. You can get an old school Bd to on ebay for a great price too.
yeah i had 2 of those, very powerfull amps
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i was told by fi that the aq 2200d would work just be carfull great amp also so if u want to upgrade to 2 subs u have the power
a rockford power 1500bd
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LOL..no, I wanted them but never got a responce. I think there were actually two ads for some RF X9's so maybe I PM'd the wrong person..Oh well. :
sorry, the first post got deleted, cause i dint have pictures, and screen name
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for sale 4 rockford fosagte power 6x9s 3 way. 150.00 for all 4
sold
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for sale 4 rockford fosagte power 6x9s 3 way. 150.00 for all 4
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Just as a side note for you guys with late model GM trucks and SUV's with GenIII and GenIV Vortec V8's, they idle at 550 rpm almost without exception, most definitely NOT 800 RPM... At 550 RPM engine RPM depending on pulley ratio alternator RPMs vary between 1950 and 2200... From what I have actually TESTED, both on vehicles and on our test bench I have never seen a 300 amp alternator other than ours that will charge more than 30-40, maybe 50-60 amps at best at idle..
60 amps isnt enough to even run a vehicle, let alone powering accessories...
my rpms are good, i think is the remote turn on, just havent had time to try it, cause i even had my truck turn off on me while driving and battery ligth came on, so i think the alternator is not turning on at all
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The belt length would depend on which dual alternator setup you have...
Ohio Generator?
DC Power?
There are other makes as well. You should contact the bracket manufacturer for belt details.
The second issue with GM vehicles with PCM alternator control is the connection of multiple alternators. We have many late model GM's running multiple alternators at 15 volts with no problems. If you setup will not charge, or you have warning light problems / codes - you will need an MLA module.
'Link
i think is dc, do i need mla module even if its a 1 wire alternator?
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Well, there is your answer. The typical "300 amp" alternator has little to no output at idle. When you put the vehicle in gear, the engine speed drops - and the alternator stops putting out power.
Check your tach, I think you may see a higher than normal idle speed (in neutral) too - the PCM will pull idle speed up in extreme cases to compensate for poor alternator output. But it has to drop that speed in gear - or you will be doing 20 mph idling & overheating the transmission...
The best answer for daily drivers & high power needs is a dual alternator setup.
yeah makes sence, i am going with a dual alternator , i need to know whats size belt i need , where i can get it, i got the brackets and another 200 amp alternator, just need the belt
'Link
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this may be it or something completely retarded but....
where did you tap the remote turn on for the alt to? fusebox under the hood? off the normal harness?
my shop installed a dual alt stinger setup in a tahoe 5.3l (different truck, i know, same company and motor.)
we basically tested for an ignition triggered fuse and tapped into that on the box, turns out it disables when the truck is removed from park, if that is the case on yours, find a proper ignition, i know it sounds like a long shot, but its the only thing i can think of for your voltage dropping when you shift into drive with an aftermarket alt in a gm truck....
idk what fuse it was, and we were all scratching our heads when the customer told us what was happening, idk why it would even do that, but it does and it's something to check for if you ran a separate turn on for the alt
hey, i just got a really good deal on a dual alternator kit, just wondering what size belt yall used on that tahoe
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Does the voltage come back up when you drive the vehicle? or does it stay at 11 volts(!) while driving?
'Link
it only goes up if i keep my feet on the gas
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this may be it or something completely retarded but....
where did you tap the remote turn on for the alt to? fusebox under the hood? off the normal harness?
my shop installed a dual alt stinger setup in a tahoe 5.3l (different truck, i know, same company and motor.)
we basically tested for an ignition triggered fuse and tapped into that on the box, turns out it disables when the truck is removed from park, if that is the case on yours, find a proper ignition, i know it sounds like a long shot, but its the only thing i can think of for your voltage dropping when you shift into drive with an aftermarket alt in a gm truck....
idk what fuse it was, and we were all scratching our heads when the customer told us what was happening, idk why it would even do that, but it does and it's something to check for if you ran a separate turn on for the alt
i ran it off the normal harness, thanks for the help ,i will try that to see if it works
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i have a problem with my trucks alternator, a 2000 5.3l silverado, i have tried 2 different alternators a excessive amperege 200amp and a 300amp, and they all do the same, ecxept the stock alternator, ok this is whats happening, when ever i shift to drive or reverse my voltage drops to like 11 volts, i have done the big 3, but still doesnt work , whats going on?????
Cant Find An High Output Alt
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
yeah i agree they can coustom build for any vehicle, thats were i got mine fro my dodge caliber