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Posts posted by Cr@sh
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I would go with the one you can get a warranty on, I would imagine that both are made in korea or china both make great power per dollar so If you can get a warranty with one and not the other then I'd go with it. If neither then I have no guess for ya becuase I think there both great for the money.
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I tried to throw one together today from work but sketchup 7 wouldnt work after I installed it. I'll try again tomorrow
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Is it built yet? lol
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Well then, get your build on!
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Most not all vehicles will see a lower score at the dash verses the kick, I think why you'll see so many people ask here is most of us came from termlab which is a DB Drag competitor site, at least I know I did.
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And I should probably mention, I am not trying to make an spl vehicle for competitions, I just want a real loud daily driver. Im not a COMPLETE noob I know im not going to be winning competitions with Jl w3 subs,(i know it could be possible). If this box turns out the way I hope it will I will probably attend 1 local competition just so i can put it to the test on the TL I really am just more curious than anything of what sort of number I can put up. Ive seen everyone on here posting their scores, and there pretty impressive I have never heard anything louder than my own system so i am deprived. I just want to know to give me a better idea of how crazy the scores all you real competitors are puttin up.
With a total of 1200 watts in the configuration your speaking of (4-12"s in a mono chamber/ Ported enclosure) I would imagine 138-140 range.
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Yikes, not the best way to keep the engine cool huh?
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Where can I buy?
LOL, that'd be nice. But I wonder how heavy it is...
I believe these guys are piecing it together with the horns from shiphorns.com and any 12volt compressor, or 24 volt.
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152dB @ 1MILE??
I believe thats 36 inches
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My new alarm clock.
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I can't even imagine how loud this is in person!
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I wonder how well control is at that high of excursion especially with a ton of power to it. It'll be interesting to see the spec's of this if and when it hits the shelves.
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Yea x3 we are all about "Pics or it didnt happen"
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The specs are correct but 550x2 at 2ohm stereo, good amp!
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I can rent my termlab, Pm me!
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Yea it shouldnt be more then 150-200. I would just get a matching paint pen and get it close.
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have you read everything at www.the12volt.com ?? there's enough there to pass the basic and possibly the installer first class cert's, in my honest opinion!
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the longer the wire the more the current has to travel to reach its destination .. so yes a few extra feet of wire could technically throw it off even for a split second, i noticed this with my eyes when i had different lengths of wire for my subs, and for your head unit and rears and fronts, are different, they have their own channels they operate on.
In direct current yes, but what comes out of the amp is alternating current so 10 ft or 100 ft wouldnt make a difference. I think its the size of the box or bad coil. I have seen this similar issue with to large of a box hence the "No cone control" or a bad coil all ready.
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They went up 14% across the board!
j/k, im not sure???
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Also in series parralel's that I have done in the past the woofers closest to the amp would see to move out of phase with the others and it may be that they get a little more, also is it a single chamber or all chambered off?
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Is this visually, or on video? becuase on video alot of cameras cant pick up the subs moving properly, howver if it's visually I would check to make sure there wired in proper phase.
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Not only all of what the OP said, but go to a manufacturer forum and try to talk about good products(Other then there's!). I was on a forum that was from a said manufacturer and wow all I got was grief and all the greif was supported by people who worked/owned the said manufacturer! Talk about biased but I guess I can expect that.
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I know I'll get hammered for this but here goes.... For the money the Hifonics 2610D's can be shipped for 378 off ebay. They will do 2600 RMS @ 1ohm providing you give them 14.4 constant. If someone wants to do the whole arguement all over again about this thats fine, I am only posting this!
Workin on a new box
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by Cr@sh
Well based on JL's ( http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11415.pdf ) recommendations of 1.75 Per sub = 7 total and I give 2.0 for port and sub displacement were at 9 cubic ft total. This is tuning of 30 hz and an F3 of 35hz repsectively.
This will give you some idea's on how you can go about building it. Just put bracing inbetween the subs and you should be good to go. The measurements are 14" width - 22" height - 57.5" length and Port is 5.5" width - 12.5" height - 26.125" length!
Edit: This keeping in mind that you'll be using .75" thick MDF or equivalent!