Jump to content

rumproast789

Members
  • Posts

    423
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rumproast789

  1. Alright I got it out. CD Player doesn't like pull in the CD's like before. Does that mean its broken?

    As in when i try to push it in the cd, it doesn't take it from me and pull in and do it all by it self. I'd have to jam it in like before...

  2. Press the eject button and slide the CD under the one that is in there. Try it back and forth and continue to press eject, if that doesn't work then try the knife thing.

    didn't work. I must have done it wrong. I cant pinch it will enough to pull it out! I REALLY need to fix this.... my dad will KILL me

  3. Alright well I added an amp to my car for testing. I unplugged the battery and had to plug it back in and when I tried to start it, it had troubles starting because of the disconnectoin of the battery. So When I went to start it I also tried to put a cd in. The cd was just sitting half way in so while I tried to start it again and just pushed the cd in. The cd player will not read it, and it cannot eject it becuase it doesn't see it as it's in there.

    It is a 2002 ford explorer, and it is the regular (not 6 disc) cd changer. I read to either grab it with plyers (can't find needle nose small enough) or take it out. I don't know how to take it out either so can someone help!

  4. btls are just amazing subs, go with an audioque 3500d, you won't be disappointed

    If I had that much cash I would go with a sundown 3000d. I'm sure the audioque is good but I would rather go with sundown. The audioque 2200d seems plenty enough, for right now atleast, and the price is right

    if someone has a used one I wouldn't mind buying that.

    Btw, I was amazed off of 1000, i dont think I'd be able to handle 3000 lol

  5. I don't have vids, as I just hooked it up tonight. Wow, I played it today for about an hour on chitty 4 guage (old install), no batteries, and a h.o alt. It was also on a Hifonics 1200 rms amp (friends amp, I needed to hear it). It probably wasn't pushing that much but WOW it is so damn loud...... My ears were hurting and I've heard systems with way more power not be as loud as this. Everything rattled to hell, and it was moving a decent amount of air.

    Overall I'm VERY impressed with this sub, I couldn't be happier. I am SOOOO glad I went with it.

    I think I'm in love.

    I'll get some vids this weekend if I borrow my friends amp again.

    Sub is a 10/10 in EVERYTHING in my books

  6. I don't believe any Pzi amp is 1 ohm stabe let alone 0.7.

    The websites I look at say it is.., the newer version people say they have it working on 1 ohm. Maybe since this is the older it doesn't work.

    A member at *** said this

    "Dual 2 ohm coils should read like 1.6-1.7 ohms per coil when you hook them up to the DMM. So if you check them with the coils wired in parallel already, it should be about .7. But every sub that's dual 2 ohm and wired in parallel is 1 ohm at the amp."

    So it's not really at .7 at the amp I guess

    Okay update. I got a new fuse, little bit different, didn't seem like it went in all the way, but same fuse rating same type. Plugged everything up and it didn't turn on. I tried shoving part of the power wire into the remote turn on so its always on to see if it turns on and it didn't turn on. I got 12 v at the amp, and 12v with the remote turn on (with the part of the power wire in it) and still didn't light up or play. With the remote turn on it didn't play or light up. settings all the way down nothing worked. This worked on my 2 previous set ups, i don't know why these wires wouldn't work. The wires were also originally installed with this amp, so IDK what happened. Help guys...

  7. take a wire from your positive input on your amp and jump it to the remote turn on input.

    positive power wire? or positive speaker wire? and by jump it you mean put the two together in the remote turn on hole?

    Sry, I thought I knew a lot of this stuff, but I've NEVER heard of this method

  8. it shouldnt be getting hot if you're not playing it

    try restripping the remote or replacing the wire completely

    check ground also and rca

    I will restrip the remote wire, and the ground is connected to the seat bolt. I don't think it was sanded down, but it worked when I had the amp in a long time ago just fine. I checked under the hood and I popped a fuse when I sparked tryign to connect the power wire lol.

    I'll have to go get a new one, and I'll just retry it all.

    Thanks man, I was getting hopeless that no one was helping

    I'll post back if it works

  9. update: I turned all the settings the other way, apparently I had the gain maxed out lol... I was confused and thought .2 was less than 6. I guess not though. Anyways, I got it to turn on and not go into protect while music was playing (car was off) So I turned the car on, and it didn't turn on. The big Crunch light didn't light up...

    Why isn't this working?

    could temperature be an issue? could my remote wire be messed up? the wire looked a little bad... maybe ill restrip it..

  10. I have my btl, and I am borrowing my friends sub amp to listen to the sub because I can't afford an amp just yet. I am dying to hear it. It is wired at 1 ohm, but really .7 ohm (DMM). It says the amp is 1 ohm capable, but It goes into protect when I turn the amp on. What could be the problem, maybe its not 1 ohm capable? or the .7 ohm is too low?

×
×
  • Create New...