Soulman07
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Posts posted by Soulman07
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This particular issue would definitely be one of a kind sir... I'd recommend letting an experienced electrician handle it if none of this stuff works.
It could be a number of things causing this one though.
The fuse idea is a good place to start. 30 amp is probably the largest you get out of a standard mini fuse. It wouldn't hurt to try it first.
You could also have an open wire that kind of bounces around and touches open metal when you turn the bass up so, trace all of the wires down that come off of the generator fuse to make sure that there is no cuts or splices in them.
If everything checks out clear, replace the voltage regulator inside of your alternator.
Your alternators voltage regulator should never pull so many amps that it's making fuses blow. Which is why I would doubt a fuse would actually be the problem.
After that...
Hope that one of the top three solutions fixed your issue.
If all of these fail, could be time for an alternator replacement or something inside of your cars computer could be causing it to happen.
I would check the first two then go from there. Everything else involves spending a decent amount of money to guess at it.
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Price is pretty reasonable in my eyes, I wouldn't hesitate to send them any of my amps for repair.
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My entire drop is DJM, aside from the drop shocks that is.
Great stuff, cheap affordable and it works. All of my equipment with shocks was around 750 bucks.
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Verizon, sprint, cricket, us cellular, all of those super fast providers use the CDMA network as an alternative to GSM. CDMA = no sim cards and the iphone will not function without one to my knowledge.
AT&T, T-mobile, and a few other carriers would allow you to as long as you are using the GSM network.
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Mine doesn't spin in COMPLETE circles, it has a little play in it.. All of them will if you over tighten them or cross thread. The insert for it was cross threaded and I held with pliers on the cylinder portion and got the bolt out, tapped and then reinserted a fine threaded bolt in it's place with lock washers on top/bottom to ensure it doesn't really spin again when tightening it.
Mine was never lose to the point where the connection was bad. I find myself disconnecting both terminals over time to clean the damn things off anyways because they get dirty and lose a bit of contact...
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A mechanic did the same to the HC1800 I currently use, I was able to get the bolt out though. So I just tapped it with a fine thread and it's been good ever since. See if you can't get pliers to hold the cylinder it goes in then hit it with open end a few times. If you can get the bolt out.. You can salvage your battery maybe
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You don't need to drain your battery because it won't help you any. Your voltage regulator controls the voltage and your alternator produces the amperage based on demand. If you want a set point then an MLA or adjustable regulator would be ideal.
It will NOT help to drain the battery completely since you have an RPM issue.
Your voltage is one thing and the amount of amps you put out at your desired voltage is another
So when there is little to no demand at idle in your car. You'll probably use 20-30 amps or so. Your voltage will be in the 12.5 or 13.5 ish range. When you increase the engine RPM you can produce more amps if needed at your desired voltage if you have your own personal set point or at the voltage regulators set point without dipping as long as the alternator isn't being over worked.
Heat plays a factor in most situations because of it being in the engine bay. So the amount of amps and voltage can vary because of it.
You have an RPM issue though since the voltage moves up to the set point at higher rpm levels but you are idling too low to produce enough amperage for your regulators set point.
I'd ask one of the manufactures here about smaller pulley sizes which may even it out a bit for you.
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The pulley would be on the alternator.
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Some alternators don't really put out a ton of amps @ idle. It would depend on your idle rpm speed. Find out more about it, I purchased one for a cadillac once that wouldn't kick on until around 800 engine RPM. I would idle in the 550-600 range. At stop lights I would literally drop to battery power putting out like 5-6 amps or some shit. See if you can get a different pulley for it if all else fails
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Audioque HDC
+1
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Which part of the test is it failing? 450.00 is a ton of repair cost when it comes to emissions repair. It really is...
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Pricey... Consider going to junk yards that let you remove them yourself to save money.. for my 93 SWB I paid $17 a panel. I thought that was a little bit expensive for something that isn't wrapped or has any sort of detail on it...
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I don't know what year model caddy you have.. I have a 94 Sedan Deville though. I went through passenger side floor board, because the battery was mounted on the passenger side of the car.. 14 foot run to the trunk. Wasn't too terribly bad.
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Most kits you buy have to be modified in some way.. I just finished up the front end on my chevy.. A grinder and a set of wheels later!!! progress!!! Sexy work though... It makes it TONS easier when you aren't working under a carport and have two jacks stands to work with. A lift would be lovely! I'm loving the paint more and more each time I see it too!
Sexy project... over the course of the years... It has improved! Significantly!
Haters will hate and talkers will always seem to talk, I have tons of respect for the work you do of your OWN. In a non *nut-hugger* kind of way.
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Come on lazy ass! get to work! It's SUNNY OUT!!!!!!
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Here's another very simple way to wire it... Hit up your local junkyard if you don't feel like spending $7 a relay:)
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If you go to the home depot off of I-10 they sell 2x4 sheets of MDF.. If it doesn't work out for you and you have a minute early morning sometime this week to snag some. I might be able to roll with you sometime before the weekend... Nice looking arm rest you have there btw;)
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Yes indeed... looked like you all had some fun!
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Mileage means nothing if a car/truck is well maintained. If I had to choose.. I'd stick with the chevy
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Silvers are 1ohm stable bridged I believe. The black ones are 2ohm stable only, I think that's about it. The silvers were the 07 models, most sites confuse the two now a days though
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can you find out what all the alt will fit?
Pretty much any GM vehicle that's a truck or SUV with little to no modifications at all.. The large case alternators were somewhat retired in the late 90s though.. So on most of the newer vehicles with CS-130D,AD230/244 series alternators... the bolt holes will line up. The casing might be an issue depending on where it's going though.
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I'd run two runs of whatever I have from alt to battery regardless:) depending on length and how warm the engine actually gets... Wouldn't hurt to do it!
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"Generator" fuse keeps blowing. need help badly
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Last thing I would say is possibly a bad diode on the rectifier or a computer problem, I would lean more towards the rectifier though. Have it rebuilt with different parts from a more reputable manufacture. The casing of the alt should still be fine along with the bearings, so if they can service it for you. It should save you a penny or two.