Soulman07
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Posts posted by Soulman07
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Some subs have insane break in periods, I wouldn't be concerned about it to much. As long as you are giving it a clean amount of power you should be fine.
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Nice look, feels more inviting to me
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If it's not burning it out or running any out of the tailpipe/muffler.. it's probably burning it all off inside of the engine... As the leak gets worse you'll see more of it I'm sure. My current car... aluminum 4.9 cadi engine was the same.. it'd drop the tank and a whole radiator half of fluid on a 30 mile drive and never smoked....
oil started mixing with antifreeze inside of the engine.. and I'm done with it because it's the second time I've had em replaced. The entire block needs to be shaved now I would assume... or I can just swap the engine. If anything check your local junk yard for replacement motors with less mileage from wrecked cars... I don't like fixing heads.. Same problem tends to repeat after a while on aluminum engines...
have a mechanic check it out to see if you have hydrocarbons in your antifreeze.. if you do then there is a headgasket leak. Judging by the amount of coolant you are losing it may already be too late for the *quick fix* method. aka k&w block sealant..
After having them do a compression check/hydrocarbon check... and confirming. Just start looking for another motor with less miles and the guy that does swaps at his house... That'd be the cheapest route to take.
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. I don't remeber the size. It's nice though.
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Mattman has a 15" dell screen in his whip.. if I'm not mistaken... I'll dig up a pic if I have one.
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I'm tempted to port through the rear deck myself... It's a lot of work, my friend has a 90s model bonneville sse with 3 CVX 12's ported through the rear deck. It slumps... Very tempting... Quite a bit of work though
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yeahh....... I need new shorts
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Yeah look for an IGN fuse.. make sure you put the wire on the side that doesn't get power with the ignition on.. That way your remote wire will be fused. Pull the fuse, turn your ignition on and use a test light or dmm to see which side has power and which one doesn't.. Put it on the side with no power. Then insert the fuse, and you'll be good to go on the switched 12 then.
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I use mustard for all of my burns.... Sounds wierd.. I have had a few 3rd degree burns on my hands before.. Mustard soothes the pain more so.. I don't know if it actually heals it faster though.
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If I drive my car *right* I'll get around 24MPG highway and 19 inner city. With a 15 year old 4.9L V8... It still gets excellent mileage and hasn't been tuned up in a little over a year and a half... It beats most of the newer v8s EPA estimated by a long shot too...
Anyways, it's not a bad price for such a car... I think they are ugly little turds though:P
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Ahhhhh tempted... to give it a whirl
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Factory wiring size is 4 gauge... Just run the wire from alternator + to battery +.
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Plug it in your powersupply and test the voltages coming out on the other end?
here's what yours looked like in comparison to mine. It should work just fine.
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Closest you'll probably get is 10 gauge. You can trim a hair of the 8 off to make it fit the 10 gauge quick connect though.... Most 8 gauge wire really isn't 8 gauge anyways. The wire I ordered for 8 fit my 10-12 gauge quick connect.
Here's the guy I buy wholesale from though.
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Factory-Direct...o__W0QQ_armrsZ1
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Amp was sold in an ebay auction, I thank you for all of your interest.
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My cadillac trunk measures out about the same... Maybe a tad bit smaller. If I were to go all the way up to the end of the trunk it'd be around 13 cubes.. max width of 39 height of 17 and depth of around 36 inches... I don't see that happening in a vic... You'd almost have to wall it just to get proper airspace for 18s, I went with two twelves and around 7 cubic feet of external box volume just to save SOME trunk space for tools/batteries. If built around the spare tire well and side walls utilizing the entire trunk space... You may have enough for two 18's. Properly bracing the box will drastically reduce your airspace though.. My total volume was around 7.3 external after displacements it dropped down to around 4.7, I'd love to see the finished product... An see if it holds up with that kind of power.
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Sad to hear man, I lost a brother in a homicide situation a little over 2 years ago.. Talk to them that weekend and they are gone 3 days later... When they were suppose to visit the coming weekend... I can relate bro, My heart goes out to you and your family. It's a tough time for most as is. Situations like this do not make it either, learning to cope will probably be the hardest thing you'll ever have to do.
You'll be in my thoughts and prayers man.
May your father R.I.P.
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At least your cops are cool, I'd end up going to jail having mine on 15/40. They are like are you back talking me boy.... Houston cops in the area that I live in... Are ASSHOLES to anyone that fits the profile. It sucks living right across the freeway from drug central...
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Plantronics Gamecom 370..... Love it and it's cheapppp
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You'll still need the password to get into the administrator or user account. Depending on the o/s to my knowledge guest accounts can not create new users. You are pretty much locked out without it, unless you know code. (Or know a few good hackers)
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Those things are beasts for the cost... I have around 300rms @4ohm bridged now on my pair of APF-1604s, they were 135 shipped each... I guess I didn't do enough research at the time of purchasing new 4 channels.... I don't think my mids/hi's could handle 500RMS though... so it's all good
Definitely worth the buy though... Those are built well.
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200 shipped, with a semi used JL Audio CL-RLC http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15363_...ampaign=froogle
Cheapest I've found on the line driver is 50 not including shipping, Cheapest on the amp is around 300 also without shipping included. So it's one hell of deal... I don't know why it's taken this long to get rid of it to be honest. Let me know if interested, it's ready to ship whenever payment has cleared.
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Bump... Still available willing to accept trades
Needed....
2 3-Way crossovers (preferably with mid-range controls)
2 Pair of 3.5 inch mid-range speakers
3 Pairs of 1inch flush mount tweeters
If the amp is purchased @ 200 shipped out right I'll throw in a JL CL-RLC 7 volt line driver. 1 variable channel and 1 fixed, you could probably get one for around 55-60bucks still at most places. I'm willing to take the hit for this to find a new home though.
Thank you for looking!
. I don't remeber the size. It's nice though.
Got my XS Power VCM!
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Posted · Edited by Soulman07
Your voltage regulator becomes a pass through for this module when you use all of the terminals on the Vreg. One makes contact with the field,the other with the stator, also you have remote turn on, and of course 1 wire would connect to your battery terminal. (typically how external regulators work & the MLA module) So once the exciter kicks the alternators on and supply the initial amount of voltage to start them, your alternator kind of takes it away from there. There's an adjustment on the module that kind of tells the alternators how hard to work. So it's usually a fairly simple process when done correctly
I know very little about electrical theory when it comes to alternators or mini generators as I like to call them. Essentially an MLA is somewhat of the same with an external regulator and similar to this product as well. Most MLA's operate on set point voltages though where as you have flexibility and ease of changing your voltage with this product and most adjustable regulators.
Edit: to answer newls question... there would be no need for an MLA module at this point in the system. I'm pretty sure they would coincide together just fine. There's no purpose for it though... So it's history