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c0smo kram3r

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Posts posted by c0smo kram3r

  1. do i really need to get the aluminum ones or no with that amp i will be running a powermaster 2400 all 0 gauge

    my advice is yes...ALL American soft parts & hand built. Can handle more power if you ever need them to.

    Also, not trying to change your mind, but look at DC LV4 subs (about same price as Copper Coil HDC3's) & DC LV4XL (about same price as Alum. coil)

  2. I made one for my science project last year. Went to state with it but didn't place. (Actually, it was like 75% of my dad building it & like 25% me lol.) might be able to grab some pics if you guys want... The fire waves were actually VERY close to the real wave lengths.

    It's called a "Ruben's Tube."

  3. woww.. i may have to buy a 3500d for my 12s what a nice priceee

    or..........

    you could pre-order & hold out till the SAZ-3500D. I think the pre-order is like $780ish or something similar.

  4. im not looking to spend over 700 for the subs...Ive seen that the kicker L7s 10s cost just as much as any other 10" around..so i dont wanna replace the ones i have for almost the same price as sum 12s or 15s..

    LV5 10 Rusty, DO IT AGAIN!

    But seriously, look at some DC stuff. You can PM/email Rusty for pricing info. Also, take a gander at some AQ subs.

    dcsoundlab.com

    audioque.com

  5. Secondly, yes, fuses and connectors and crimps and solder joints ALL add resistance. But some of these things are unavoidable, so we improve in the areas we can, like using large wire to try to limit the amount of power loss. Keep your number of connections to a minimum, avoid soldering where possible, (very bad conductor, compared to say a crimped ring terminal) and the use of bus bars will definitely help when you need to move massive amounts of current from many batteries/to several amps, etc..

    MANY people suggest soldering the connections.

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