dr hypothesis
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Posts posted by dr hypothesis
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You say 32"x6"? and 3" away from the back of the box? Rule of thumb, If you have a 6" port, it needs to be At The Very Least 6" away from any wall.
Not ruling out any other problems, but the port seems to be one as well.
It's a slot port. 32"high, 6" wide, 15.75" of length. This is almost identical to my last wall of 4 SX 15s, which did not have this problem.
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Amp might be a bit sick, but check the voltage across the power terminals while you're bumping and see if it's dropping badly for some reason.
Also try a tone and see if it does it on that, if not it's possible your box just has a terrible frequency response that is all over the place...
EDIT: How long is your port?
Port is 32 x 6. 16" long, a little over 3" from the back wall of the box.
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just throwing this out there those amps are power hungry and you might need to upgrade your alt if you haven't already and possibly add another battery
Yeah I know they are. I thought the 200 amp alt, PM d3400 and d3100 would be good enough for daily. I do like to slam on it though. Gotta wait tell I get my car back to be able to check out the voltage when it's turned up. Didn't have this problem previously with the Memphis running off of g34 Yellow Tops. The amp would just end up getting hot and shutting off. Haven't gotten to that point with the new electrical. Even the first song I listen to after starting my car will do this, voltage should be pretty good at that point, but I'm no expert.
Also, the amp isn't cutting out. The volume of the bass only fluctuates randomly, it'll get softer then louder, happens for a couple seconds. It's not constantly happening throughtout a song either, maybe a few times.
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generally hit higher #'s with the port on the other side
Yes, I know. I don't compete. We don't have comps in North Dakota or anywhere even close. I've had a couple different walls the past few years, thought I'd try the port on the passenger side for once. This thing does hurt my ears, which hasn't happened in a long time.
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that's extensive work. I guess go big or go home!
Wasn't too much work, even by myself. One day I might try to make an install that looks good though. All I really want these days is :hairtrick:
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Was debating to post this question yet, since my car is in the shop getting repaired. I hit a deer on the way to try and finish my install:
Won't get my car back tell the 24th. Anyways, here's whats in the car:
Two BTL 18s, walled up. 14 cubes, 35hz tune, 192" of port. There is also a d3400 under the hood with a 200 amp Iraggi alt. Two runs + front to back and one run of -. Big 3 done as well. All KnuKonceptz wiring. HU is an Eclipse 8053. I was able to play around (listen, aka SLAMMIN) with my system for a couple days before I took it in to get repaired. I pretty much finished it the day after the accident.
The problem is when listening at loud volumes, the bass will get lower then higher. Doesn't happen all the time, it's kind of random it seems like. Some songs it won't happen at all. I've done a search on every forum I know of and only found a few threads from people with the same problem. Didn't find any answers.
Only thing I can think of is it's the Memphis 4kw. I put this amp through absolute hell with my last setup, and it saw low voltage quite often. Not enough to actually smoke the amp. It did shut off from low voltage/heat quite often though. I'm thinking maybe I damaged the amp at some point? I've had nothing but trouble trying to run 4kw+ daily.
I hate posting this question without even having my vehicle right now, but this is eating at my brain and I know I'm gonna overthink the shit out of this problem. Just looking for any type of input or info. My wall is not fully sealed yet either, still a trim panel on the port side missing. Doesn't seem like it's cancellation though.
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Wow, this thread is still going. Needless to say I charged them before I installed them. Currently resting at just under 13volts in my car. I was on my way home to my parents to work on my setup when I hit a deer.
Here's a shot of my nearly completed wall:
And my ugly trunk:
Can't drive around at night with my like this, so I haven't gotten to listen to my setup much yet. Just glad the deer didn't hit the passenger side.
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Can you try a different head unit? I think its the problem.
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I have a Alpine cda 9885 Since I got it I have smoked 3 amps all on the highs and I now have a horrible whine from the ground. I took it out and took it to a local service center and paid them to fix it. They said it was perfect. I put it back in noise is bad. Moved the ground the noise lessened but came back. Redid my ground back to where the batteries in the back are attached noise got worse. redid the ground on the frame took it off ground it to a mirror finish and put it back noise is the worse yet. had my son turn on the stereo in his truck and ran the rcas to mine and ran the amp noise is gone. Fuck this sucks any Ideas? Should I Change my ground from the alt to frame to a new place? This is in an explorer sport. PLEASE HELP
I got rid of my 9886. It was fine when I first got it, then after 3 months I got the most ridiculous whine ever. First time I've ever had whine in the 8 or 9 years I've been into car audio. I tried everything to fix it, different cables, redoing grounds etc... I ended up buying an Eclipse 8053, installed it... bam no more whine. I'll never get another Alpine. I'm not impressed with them at all. This was the second Alpine I've used.
This is my 4th Eclipse and they definitely have their issues as well.
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Thanks pstone11, I'll look for it tonight.
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My friends dad has a decent Die Hard charger I can use. Just do a 2 amp trickle charge on them?
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any good agm charger should work I use a ctek 7000
What if I don't have an agm charger? Any place I could find one cheap?
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Well I got my D3400 and D3100 from MechMan today. The D3100 is resting at 12.74 and the D3400 is resting at 12.51. I don't have the Powermaster charger (can't afford it at the moment), so how should I go about charging these before I put them in? (probably in a week or two)
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Yeah, I figured I'd help someone out. Be a nice guy and all. I've got more then enough coming from Knu. None of my friends are into car audio like me, so I don't know anyone locally who would need it either.
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I've already done the Big 3, long ago. Going to redo it with the Knu wire I got coming. Got a PM from someone on here who said he really needs it. So it's his for shipping costs only.
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hell ive had 2 reh and an elite RROD on me all before a year each. never sitting on carpet, totally out in the open, and i dont ewven play xbox very often ( once a week if that maybe)
That's pretty brutal. I don't think I know anyone personally with a 360 that hasn't gotten the RROD. I've been debating on taking a sledgehammer to my old busted 360.
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see i can fix mine myself as well, but why should i have to? A company this large should just get it done right and be done with it.
Microsoft screwed up pretty bad. For me, I thought I was SOL when they didn't have the 3 year warranty or whatever it is now. They wanted $150 before the issue really blew up in their face and were forced to change the warranty. No way in hell I was going to pay that. Probably should of gotten the Best Buy warranty when I first bought it.
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In the past two months I've fixed 6 RROD xboxs... all still up and running today.
Most of the articles/videos will tell you to overheat the xbox to get the broken solder leads to melt back together... this works sometimes and with my experience only last a week or so. I started using the same heatgun that I use for tinting windows... set it to 750F and go over both sides by the GPU and CPU for 5-7minutes on both sides... works great... do the x-clamp fix after that with nylon washers placed on the motherboard side and regular washers on the heatsink and screw sides... total in parts is usually about $5.00. When doing these repairs it is CRUCIAL that you get all the old thermal pad off... rubbing alcohol and a razor blade is what i use... razor blade to scrape the heatsink... DO NOT USE THE RAZOR ON THE CHIP!!!
Been going great for me and the $60 a pop I've been charging to fix added up quick
Nice. I just used some q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to get the old thermal paste off. I used the method of overheating the box. It did seem a bit inconsistent. One time the fix did last over a year. Then I took a break from COD4 for two weeks, turned it on and bam 3 red rings. Finally got sick of it so I just broke down and bought a new box. It was great having one that I kept alive for 3 years while I had a friend go through 4 of them.
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ill buy it,whats your paypal addy?and do you have cod 4 too?
thanks man
You got PM. Yes I do have COD4 as well.
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Yeah I've been 'saving' a bunch for a while now. I'm going with KnuKonceptz this time and am gonna try to keep it all the same. All this old stuff is Monster, Stinger, and even some SoundQuest.
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I'm about to rebuild and am pulling out some old 0ga that I have in my car now. Besides selling it, what else can be done with it? Recycling maybe? Just toss it into the garbage? Some of it is some old Monster Cable which doesn't look anything near 0ga.
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What would something like Tristania or Sirenia be considered. Cause I'm into that type of shit.
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Tool kit must of been for the torx heads? Did you get the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste? That stuff does wonders. The stuff Microsoft uses is junk and applied horribly.
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I'll sell mine. Only bought it for PS3 when my 360 went down. Now that I have a 360 again I really have no use for it. Same with COD4. Was going to ebay it. They look to be going for $30 shipped on there.
My Batteries Came Today, Couple Questions
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Posted
Just to clarify, I have a 200 amp alt.