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dr hypothesis

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Posts posted by dr hypothesis

  1. Those vids on YouTube are the real deal. Though I think it costs more then 8 cents. A few bucks at least. Mostly for the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. I bought a 360 a month after they launched (Dec. 05) and was able to keep it running until a month or two ago. I got the RROD just a year after I initially bought it. Searched around the net and found the fix that people are doing the videos on YouTube of. It works, no doubt.

    If it's under warranty then get them to fix it. At the time mine initally died they didn't have the warranty they have now. So, it was either pay $150 or try and fix it myself. After you open the case your warranty is VOID. Kinda pissed me off they instituted that warranty after I had opened mine up. Oh, well. With the fix it lasted another 2 years.

  2. I'll be redoing my wiring and have to run the batts I got now for the time being. What would a good Kinetik or Powermaster setup be or what I have? Eventually 5kw. Would a D3100 in back and D3400 up front be enough?

    Also, both my runs of 0 were fused with 250amp fuses. If I pull one off the batt and put it on my alt I should keep it fused as it is?

  3. Going to be starting my build for 2 BTL 18s here in a few weeks. Going to be running a Memphis 4kw on the pair. I have an Iraggi 200amp alt already in and have 5 Yellow Tops. I had this same electrical setup with my previous build and had some voltage issues, so I'm thinking I didn't have it wired properly.

    Before I had 2 runs of 0ga from front batt + to the bank, and I just grounded the bank to the car. Would it be better to have 2 runs +, 2 runs - front to back and also ground the bank to the car?

    As far as under the hood, I have a 0ga going from alt to batt +, only 1 0ga ground on the front batt. I believe I should also put a ground on the alt? And maybe another 0 ga ground on front batt?

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