kx519
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Posts posted by kx519
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Seems like it would be a waste of time and wood. If thats what you want then do it, I wouldn't though.
Dude you always down everything everyone says.
And who gives a fuck. I have an 84 k5. Not exactly meant for stereo. So no matter what i do its going to Rattle to all hell to the point that the quality of my subs doesn't exactly matter. So why throw a ton of money into good shit when its going to do the same thing. It'll be louder than the exhaust and road noise and get fucking low.
If i was in something new, maybe something with an alarm... Or something that cost more than the stereo..
then yea. of course i would throw down for the good stuff.
But most of the time its full of mud and the rock doors are on it. So i'll stick with the cheap stuff.
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deephitters is using those if i remember right, he has 8 of them 21s or 6, i cant remember
i really want to put 2 in a wall behind the second row of seats. Or 4 in a 6th order behind the front seats? hmmm...
And even a low power amp would rock the shit out of these.
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how about 5$ shipped
Bahaha. No way. im so stoked to have a nice stereo. Usually i run the best ghetto stereo i find in some crackheads car. I've been waiting for this to happen for so long.
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damn man your lucky, thats a nice HU, howd all of that work out?
Well we own a towing service/junkyard and some guy rolled his Titan. Insurance totaled it and we got the title. i spied the stereo new in the box under the seat while we were getting all the crap out of it before we crushed it.
No harness though. :/
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http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-9886/
Im pretty excited, im ordering the IMPRINT Processor tomorrow along with some AUX adapters so i can play the Zune. They really need some Zune compliant HU's on the market.
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I'll try new mosfets, sounds simple enough and if that doesn't work then i'll fork out the money for a new amp.
Any good places to buy new mosfets?
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Sounds like your problem...lol burnt up mosfets
Can i pull one from any amp? seems like an easy fix
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Kinda like this?
If so mosfet.
Yea those, Well one of them have a burn mark on the center pin.
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Some of the time when the internal ground circuitry goes out on an amp board, you get what you are hearing along with alternator whine...
What are all the things along the inside of the case with the heat sink stuff on them.
one of those has a mark where it got shorted out or something.
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The amp then... may have to send it in for repairs or get a new one... if all the connections are solid, then it is the amp... when the car runs, does it pick up any noise from the electrical?
Like alt whine? None of that. I spent some time making sure i never got any of that.
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The solder from the board itself may have seperated from the connection causing it to contact for short period and losing contact, might want to really look closely at that.
Well to prevent the leads from ever breaking off again i drilled and tapped them out and put a screw in them. I checked and made sure they aren't shorting out or anything.
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Could also be the RCA inputs of the amp, if they grounded out while the amp is on, that could cause that as well... but, no matter what, seems like there is something wrong with your amp...
Unplug the RCA's and use a ipod to rca cable and play thorugh that, to eliminate the head unit or rca's
I tried that also. It does the same thing. Actually it's worse.
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I see what u guys did there.
Check the ground?
and maybe dwz is right, open it up or go back to where u bought it and ask them to look.
the ground is fine.
The internals are as clean as a whistle. other than one spot where a strand of wire off my 1/0 crossed a capacitor.
but that was a long time ago.
Ordered it onling. a year ago.
Did the solder possibly melt and run onto something on the amp?
Nah. i double and triple checked.
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I have never seen or heard of this happening before lol.
On the amp that was doing this what was it wired down to? And did you have any other problems with it?
its at 1 ohm. and it has been for a year now. the only thing that has happened is the power leads broke off and i had to solder them back on.
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its broken.
Really? Couldn't tell. I appreciate your input.
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Hmm... What other amp did you try it on?
An old kenwood and an audiopipe 3000d
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Well it doesn't do that with any other amps. And my coils don't rub. I have nooo idea what the hell is wrong.
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Anyone have any ideas about what the hell is happening?
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Alright guys, i just came across a 750cfm Performer at my dad's house and i figured i should give it a shot, my Holley has always given me problems.
Now my question.
Will it run good on my 350?
Its a pretty beefy Chevrolet Racing crate engine rated at 425hp on 92 octane.
I dont know all the specs on it, but its in a truck and right now it doesn't have much low end power.
And fuel economy isn't an issue. i get 6-10 to the gallon as it is.
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Definitely keep the wheels if you plan to off raod it. They should have internal locking beads so you can air down the tires.
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i want something that can run 35s and do well on and off road around 500 dollars is the best i can i have the ability to install it myself.
Go for the body lift. i fit 35's on my blazer easy with a 3in, and it still rides great.
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why do you want souch a random amp? its not that great . Its 2 ohm stable strapped why not get an amp thats 1 ohm stable ?lol just me
Its actually an amazing amp. $300 for 3000wrms is an insane deal. And the fact that its 2 ohm stable isn't a big deal, just make sure you buy subs that will wire down to 2 ohms.
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very true. but would it just be giving power to the led with the car off? or the amp still sucking power?
It will always be drawing power.
Like my amp has a 3A idle draw, which means it draws three amps just being turned on.
hmmm. A budget wall?
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Well i still have my 8 12's and my ap1800d sitting in my garage.
The only reason it is out is because the box wouldnt fit after i installed the roll cage.
And the wow factor is the only reason to go with a 21 over anything else. haha.