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Rebel4055

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  4. Does anyone know where i can get this sticker made>?

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    Techforce Services he has a section on here, his email is listed somewhere over there.

    I emailed them, facebooked them, twice in the beginning of last weekend,

    I haven't gotten any feedback from them.

    Look around, you will see a shit ton of posts about how far behind they are. They just got a new guy on to help. Richard has been fighting with his health for awhile. They try the best they can.

  10. Different way?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    By subframe I mean the one in Thea last pic.

    What issues would you have running your bat. Cable to the front? I've used hundreds of feet of the stuff you are talking about and the worst part of it all is how hard it is to work with and run because of the lack of flexibility but the wire is still good. I grounded my car to the strut towers because I have a unibody and those were thicker solid points. For a vehicle with frame rails I would bolt to that before opting for the strut tower.

    What I meant with the battery cable is the amp is currently wired with it. I was wanting to use the wire in the pictures to do a negative run from the battery to the amp if I had enough. But didn't want to mix those 2 different wires.

    That strut tower is apart of the frame. Hard to tell in the pictures. It saved me time trying to get a bolt in there.

  11. Different way?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by Rebel4055

    Thanks for the response Drew. Really appreciated. I fused the alt just for precaution sake. Just a piece of mind thing for me. Now by subframe you mean the body? Also in the first picture it's the front strut tower I used for the frame ground. This is in a 06 dodge dakota truck.

    I would do a negative run to the amp from the front battery but the wiring is different. The amp wiring is 1/0 battery cable. Instead of thin copper wire it has thick copper wire. I'm afraid of having issues if I did that.

  13. squeeling belt and dimming lights

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    Did you replace the belt when you installed the new unit?

    We always recommend a new belt with a high output alternator. They need about 2x the HP to operate over your stock unit and it's all transmitted through the belt.

    You will not be able to see the belt slipping, but you will see evidence of slip by the black residue on the front of the alternator.

    When the belt slips the alternator can slow below the turn-on speed. This will cause it to not charge, causing your warning lights and dimming issues.

    I recommend replacing the belt with new replacement properly sized and tensioned for your alternator.

    Summed up everything into one post ftw

  24. Sub fried my amp

    in Sonic Electronix - Great Selection Great Prices

    Posted

    You thinking you need bass boost tells me right there you haven't been doing this for very long.
    Bass boost is good for boosting frequencies that arent loud enough and I know better than to add too much boost. But none of this is relevant to the situation, even with everything maxed and half volume I don't see this amp pushing enough power to fry the coil instantly. I could see it detaching the surround or "spider" or breaking a tinsel lead from over excursion but none of which happened. And I should've reworded my previous post as I didn't know where I needed the boost or notand at what frequency I may have needed it at

    I'm out of this now.

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