Rebel4055
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Posts posted by Rebel4055
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exactly what i was saying, the sub shouldn't have been reading .3 ohms per coil. call the manufacturer and tell them about it.
I would imagine the sub blew too. He said he checked everything afterwards.
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send the sub back for sure. .2 ohms will definitely fry an amp call the manufacturer or whoever you got it from and tell them your amp fried b/c the sub wasn't the right impedance. they should cover the sub, but the amp probably not in the future, check with a DMM before you hook it up
The pioneer was dual 2. Wouldn't have came with .3 coils.
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Sub didn't fry your amp. You did.
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Last night? That was seriously the strongest storm I have ever been threw and i've been threw some small tornado's. It was crazy like a freight train was running threw the house. Felt like it was just going to collapse.Mine got nicked too. Was small hail though. But was enough to chip the paint in a few spots on the hood.Yep last night around what? 9pm I think. It wasn't that windy. Lots and LOTS of lightning and rain.
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You also was trying to order stuff from the UK lol
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Mine got nicked too. Was small hail though. But was enough to chip the paint in a few spots on the hood.
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YouTube. Or change the settings on your facebook.
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Try tapping it. Don't go all ape shit on it though. If that doesn't do it get it towed. It isn't engaging all the way.
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If you want to be technical it's called a doodle bug lol
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this is where my knowledge stops, but i think the next step besides a new alt is something like a batt isolator kit.
could be wrong.
Don't need a isolator.
The alt will be fine with 2 batteries.
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good to know about the sizes. and the reason about the relays was doesnt putting a second battery directly tied to the main one just strain the alt? even with the big 3?
Won't hurt it that bad. Don't need relays.
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i think mine is 136 amps if that sounds about right. and by extra battery like using a relay to jump over the the one in the back after the car is started? and i want loud bass but with the two twelves its to bassy for metal. so i was thinking 10's would sound better and the extra power for when i want bass. and thanks
You won't need no relays, isloators. Alien traps or anything... Postive and negative runs to each battery is how you do it. With the 2 ends on the postive fused to the wires limits.
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Thanks. Another one for you guys. Why is one - and one is just 24, no -?
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I mean 12.6 really isn't BAD but it just a touch off from their specs.
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What's the difference between the -18 and the 24? Isn't -18 a little on the low side?
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Besides that which slope would be "ideal"? I'm clueless about it as far as "roll offs" .
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Was looking up something totally different and just thought of this. Should I use my amps LPF or my headunits? I noticed the slope? is different? I think that's what it is.
The headunits is Subwoofer crossover (50/63/80/100/125Hz, -18dB/Oct.)
and the amp
Variable Crossover Control: Low-Pass: 40-250Hz, 24dB/Octave, Butterworth
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Pretty sure tinsel leads can be repaired. I'm no sub rebuilder though. So wait till someone says other wise.
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Sounds like the voice coil to me.
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I'm no golf kart pro but it will probably be fine. A nice powerful motor on that kart would be awesome lol.
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That would be your cheapest option. Like a old briggs motor or something.
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I have dealt with prime series amps. And it my experince with them being class A/B they will get warm or slightly hot. Nothing you can do. What I have found that fixes protecting issues when it gets really hot is a bad ground. Or too long of a ground. After I fixed that the amp has never been better.
Oh and setting the gains correctly helps too.
4 gauge is plenty.
Sub fried my amp
in Sonic Electronix - Great Selection Great Prices
Posted
You thinking you need bass boost tells me right there you haven't been doing this for very long.