Symmetry9898
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Posts posted by Symmetry9898
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might still wanna have your charging system checked. i just dont see a 14g wire shorting causing your lights to dim
word, thanks for your input, i really do appreciate it.
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noob? whar exactally is the big three
0/1 to alt + to bat +, engine block ground to chassis ground, and chassis ground to negative
could be a shotty crimp on my part, who knows, when i get my day off im gonna tear it apart at the dash and take a look.
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could have pinched one
It is quite possible, but would that small of a wire really cause the lights to dim like that? just seems wild that that could happen like that, definitely worth a shot though.
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it may be a short thats only active with your ign on cuz it really sound like a short to me
that could take some time to find, especially when im not even 100% sure where to start looking. when you say a short, could this be caused in the headunit area? not that i am questioning my wiring because i made sure everything was correct and insulated, but that is really the only place that i would question just because i had to cram so much crap (wires, Pac Adapter, etc) in a small space.
I did upgrade the engine block ground in two places. Just like the big3 tutorial stated, all i did was add to it, not replace it.
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does your batt go dead after sitting a while
not at all. havent had any issues with the truck after this install other the lights dimming...
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how many other acc's you running(screens, games neons)
other than all the unwanted crap thats in the truck (trailblazer ss) nothing. The only other amp in the truck is a T4004 running the highs.
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It shouldn't dim with all of that on that much power! Ground off of your alt if possible
I didnt think it should dim at all, especially what i see people running running on similar electrical.
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wear do you have your gain set
thats a reaally big amp
set at about the 7 o'clock position i was conservative when i set it as i did not want any failures. Not that the BTL couldnt take it, but i figure better safe than sorry...
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mainly at idle, which i would expect, but it does happen at running speed also, but not nearly as bad.
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IT could be that the amp you have pulling more power than your electrical. I know the RF amp draws alots of power. If you dropping from 14.8 wouldn't hurts that much. Any below than that wouldn't be too good. How bad are you light dimming? Have you done the big 3?
They dim like a bitch kid LOL. I have the big 3 done, even with extra ground leads between the ground points under the hood. im thinking that this amp is just pulling alot of current. at full tilt, i do not drop below 14, but my lights just dim, its nucking futs HAHA
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Chassis Ground I personally think (and i am no expert here so please dont take offense) but i think a ground run from the front to the rear is just a bit of overkill.
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early morning bump?
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yes, im thinking that the port area should be a bit larger, but then again, i could be wrong, if it sounds good, bang that shit
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there is a guy on tbssowners.com his name is tony, his forum name is NORCAL SS. He is the suspension god on that forum, although you do not have a trailblazer, he could possibly suggest something for your application. Just a suggestion
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I just wanted to get a feel about what you guys think this sounds like. I recently installed my sub, amp for the sub and all electrical components to pull this off. I have a DC power 270 XP alt, a Xs Power D3400 and 2 D975's in the back, my lights are still dimming though when i drop the knob. With my batteries and alt, should my lights be dimming, im only running a T20001bd to the sub. do i have a ground problem? im charging 15.1 cold and dropping 14.8 ish at idle hot. Thanks in advance for comments and advice.
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Just curious if you get any noise out of the port. Looks like it may need a little bit more area
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just got a ground hog with it today, out the bedroom window, lol. This gun is pretty rare and collectable.
any of yall have varmint guns?
Thats a remington, no? i had a rifle that looked just like that.
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well, maybe not half, but it was alot
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tru that, i just ordered my alt and batteries the other day, got the batteries but the alt is still in transit. Just the electrical alone was probably more than half the cost of the system LOL I guess you gotta pay to play the game
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ooh well i guess you could always build a new one but if you only have one 18 then i would take the advice from the guy above and not go over 8 cubes! the only reason why i did is cuz im going to add another!
and i dont think 2 square inches is going to hurt anything! as long as it sounds good then your alright!
Im hoping so, ive dropped a ton of money into this thing so far. The weather is starting to get nice so im about to start pulling all this together and putting it in the truck. Im ready for it to be finished, its been nearly 6 months in the making.
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im not, i was just asking. Although i do like the look of a larger box. The one i have built up is about 6.5 cubes at arround 32ish. a bit concerned about my port area though, i used exosports box calculator, and im under my port area by about 2 square inches.
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sweet. have a clue as to what it is tuned at?
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i just built a box thats 10 after displacement!! uhm lows for days and not sloppy at all! but the higher end of the lows dont get loud!
what kind of power you putting to it?
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only reason i asked is because i would think it would get sloppy up in the higher end of the 5-10 cubic feet range. Has anyone ever seen play an 18 in anything bigger than 8?
Audio Control Meter, how accurate are they compared to the TL?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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Like the description says, i was wanting to know how the audio control meter compares to the term lab meter as far as readings. The shop that has this meter didnt give me a model number or anything so im not sure which one it is. They want 150 bucks to meter the truck is this a good price for this? any quick replies would be great as i am off today and have absolutely nothing to do today... Thanks in advance.