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John

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Posts posted by John

  1. one turns on the bass amps seperately from the rest of the system. It also turns on the fans. It is only "activated" if the deck is on.

    the OTHER button i have, is constant and ATM i only use one button and that is to cut the power supply to the mac in such a case where i need to do that (so i dont have to pop out the cupholder and yank the wire out.

    i have 5 outputs between the two buttons that are not being used ATM but the good news is, if anything needs to be hooked up in the future, its gonna be EASY and controllable :) Plenty of room for expansion.

    Good idea hooking the mac up to it. Never thought about hooking the sub amps up to it....well I have a plan for this weekend now! I have all of my interior and exterior leds hooked to it and the range on it is amazing! Has worked out to 100 yards so far.

  2. Footage looks good man. Reminds me of the videos that one4one.tv used to put out.

    Nice..

    I used to play on a tournament team also but stopped playin.. been really wanting to get back in it lately tho and this vid aint helpin at all.. lol

    After I looked at these videos, I went and looked at some more. Damn now I really want to play again!

    Here is a picture of my buddy. Taken in Phoenix a week before he was killed.

    n1299780601_30427900_6114906.jpg

  3. I will agree with you on that no doubt. $60 bucks for a game is getting quite rediculous. But its all a matter of greed...you raise the price of a game $10 and say 200k people buy it: Thats an easy 2mill in their pockets. Sad truth is, games are only going to continue to rise in price. Very rarely do you see a price drop on such a well selling item. Because the designers know that people will pay it.

  4. if the line going to the back batts is touching the car side of the positive terminal (like mine are) there is still a full loop, and current is still available.

    DING DING DING! Even tho I did remove all connections from the front battery, because I had a positive line from the back batteries still on the buss bar up front...it still was getting power. I was just running off the rear batteries and no longer had the front battery in the mix. Damn exhaust fumes got to me. :rolleyes:

    Edit: But damnit if I didn't think my car was some sort of possessed when I glanced up at that little light under the hood.

  5. I do have two batteries in the back but they are ran directly from the front battery. I dont even have a run coming from the alternator to them. I have no other equipment related to the source in my vehicle. No battery backups for alarms or capacitors or anything. I understand that my pcm and my ecu do hold a charge. But not for upwards of 10 minutes with all lights on and radio playing...

  6. Long story short. I was disconnecting the battery I have up front(standard lead acid battery from oreilys) After removing the negative and positve connections. I begin to pull the battery out...I tell myself how nice it is to have such a bright engine light for working in the dark. LIGHTBULB ON!

    How in the hell do I still have power to my truck if my battery is completely disconnected? To double check myself, I run to the interior and flip on the interior lights as well as my headlights. Now these, ofcourse, shouldn't work with the battery completely disconnected from the car. So...unless I have a hidden battery I just don't know about or I am high as a damn kite...I shouldn't have power to my truck.

    Got any ideas?

    :search:

  7. Got a co worker like this. He missed a scratch on a GTO we had in the shop. Not a big deal really...I caught it before the guy came to pick it up. It would have been an easy 10 minute fix, but no. He had to bitch and whine to me about how it wasnt his fault for missing it. Even tried to blame it on me when I had no part in working on the car. Boss set him straight and ended up telling him to go home. I fixed the sratch and cleaned the car off as the guy was pulling up.

    As far as the whole teenager attitude...It will blow over trust me. I was the same way as well as my brother. It was hell on my parents and almost caused them to get a divorce. Stick in there!

  8. I'm not that litterate when it comes to audio equipment, I know a lil' here and there and such, but not that great (I can install a system)

    Well those roof speakers sound like shit if I start to turn the system up so I'd just disconnect them until I get something better in their place.

    What do you mean by "run of the mill coaxs"?

    -----

    Would it be asking too much if you gave an actual list of stuff (in greater detail)?

    Now about the Tahoe, I see we both have a 99 Tahoe, what kind of Alternator are you running? And are you running 1 or 2 batteries in the engine bay? Because I've noticed when I have the front & rear AC on, headlights on, etc. The voltage drops down to like 11-12 volts, and it got me thinking, if I had a system in the truck, how much lower would the voltage be...

    The roof speakers are trash. Just disconnect them and leave it like that. You will never hear them.

    By "run of the mill coaxs" I mean just some pioneer or kicker 6.5 for the rear doors. Nothing to fancy.

    I am running a Mechman 250amp alternator with the adjustable regulator with only one battery up front and two kinetik 2400's in the back. I have about 600watts running right now and if I turn every acc on (ac, headlights, w/e) I only drop to about 14.2.

    To be honest, with your budget...you cant have the best of both worlds. Like previously mentioned by zfrerichs...I would start with an area of your system that you want the most. Bass, mids and highs, or electrical and go from there. Me I started with my electrical first, then moved to my mids and highs, and I am gathering funds for the bass as we speak.

    PM me in detail what you want out of your system and I can work out with you how to achieve your goals man. But for now...its grub time! Peace!

  9. Yes there is 8 speakers to be exact in our trucks. The picture you have is where the 1" tweets go. If it was me and I only had a $1000 budget...I would do a: cheap pioneer hu, some phoenix gold 6.5 comps for the front, run of the mill coaxs in the back doors(do nothing with the roof speakers), a decent four channel amp like alpine or powerbass, and then two 12" level 3s of a Hifonics BXI1610D. Knukoncepts wire

    I didnt get the exact prices so it may be a lil over your price range but you can always change things

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