white4d96
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Posts posted by white4d96
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Tornado doesn't work. It's more restriction which the engine doesn't need.
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What he said.
Typically though from what I've read bass wavelengths are longer than your car is, so opening windows/doors enlarges the 'environment' in which the wave can propagate and form, causing it to be more defined. Meaning, louder. I know mine is.
This is partially why having windows open or doors open when you meter is considered "outlaw" scoring (IIRC)
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Bought a KX1200.1 was shipped promptly in good packaging. Arrived as advertised in good working order. Would buy from again.
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We use those as well. As long as you don't yank on the lead with that collar on the dog it is perfectly fine. It's at the point now that our dog will behave if we even bring the collar out.
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i would try rubbing compound because if u aint careful with the laquer thinner or its a real weak thinner it may dull the paint
But if you ain't careful with compound you'll burn right through the clearcoat.
First off, try claying the car. See if that takes it off. If not, I would start with the finest compound you can get. If it doesn't take it off, try going a little more coarse. BE CAREFUL! If you push too hard, use the wrong kind of rag, or work it in too much, it WILL burn through your clearcoat and you'll be effed. I recommend washing the car right before, then running the hose over the area you are working. I've found it works best if you make a 'slurry' of water and the compound. Also, if you're gonna do it by hand, more power to ya; I would get a buffer. I've never used a cheap one, but if you can, get a good one like a Porter Cable. You have to be a true moron to mess up paint with a PC.
Oh, you could also try a wax and grease remover. See if that takes it off.
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Any chance of reconing the Alpine R-1222d's to dual 4's? Or are the coils different diameters?
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NP.
FWIW I am planning on dropping 2-2.5" on homemade coilovers and I plan to use stock struts. I don't expect them to last long, but I'm planning on using them for now. Then again, my only other option is to send my strut housings in to be threaded for Koni race inserts, which for street use...yeah. No thanks. But if push comes to shove I may have to...
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Could pull diff urself then take it to shop. Save some $ on labor.
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Probably a seal kit.
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Don't waste your time it's not worth it.
Where does the pipe not fit? I think chopping 3/4" wouldn't be an issue but depending on what your issue is you could possibly tweak other things in the way, or if there are couplers used, replace one with a differently-angled coupler to give yourself the clearance. Just a couple thoughts.
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For that kinda drop you should be fine with GOOD stock struts (Moog, KYB, Koni...NO Monroe or Gabriel!)
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I graduated last year. It was some feeling let me tell ya. I was all excited to go to college. None of it happened.
My regrets? Not being more involved, and not trying for more scholarships while I was in school. I mean, I make AMAZING pay for a 19-year old around here with no degree, but I know I can do better and wish I had. Of course, I still could, but we'll see what happens.
I really only talk to 2 people: my girlfriend, who graduated from my school in '08, and my best friend who lives right down the street (and helps me fix half the shit I break on my car lol)
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Honestly I buy the cheapest rotors I can get on Rock Auto and nice ceramic pads. Ends up costing me about $60 per axle, shipped to my door.
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Honestly I like the sound of the 60-degree motors better (3100, 3400, 3500) but the 90 degree's make so much more power it makes up for it.
Biggest limiting factor in W-bodies is the transmissions though. They do NOT hold up very well to abuse. If you're going to go crazy on modding look into an upgraded one. I hear a lot about Triple Edge Performance on the forums I go on, they seem to be a good bet, although a little on the $$$ side.
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Honestly I like the sound of the 60-degree motors better (3100, 3400, 3500) but the 90 degree's make so much more power it makes up for it.
Biggest limiting factor in W-bodies is the transmissions though. They do NOT hold up very well to abuse. If you're going to go crazy on modding look into an upgraded one. I hear a lot about Triple Edge Performance on the forums I go on, they seem to be a good bet, although a little on the $$$ side.
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Speed Daddy headers (on eBay), CAI, tune, then if you want more, pulley down.
L67's are the shiz. I've debated swapping one into my '96, but emissions is an issue, as is the oil filter adapter clearing the intermediate shaft on the 5-speed in my garage.
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My brother had this issue in his 300C, he said something about a capacitor mod to fix it? Then again, his are computer-controlled so a different animal there perhaps.
Oh, do you have daytime running lights? That can fuck with HID's hardcore.
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Unplug the keypads?
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RockAuto.
I plug them a lot but I love those guys. My friend got a tank for his 86 Regal there for dirt cheap. I've bought tons of parts from them without issue.
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Order online for a better deal. I would go with Bilsteins.
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Got me looking at that Orion now...
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See, that looks awesome!
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I just like silver because it makes them look like new calipers, and black because it makes them blend in real well.
Which is better? plus a few extra questions?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
If you look at a GP, get ready to change the LIM gaskets if they haven't been changed already. The OE plastic ones like to rot. Newer style metal ones last much longer (like, forever longer)