white4d96
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Posts posted by white4d96
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Problem: if you do this, everyone on Youtube now knows how this is set up.
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it happens for many reasons all having to do with heat, the thickness of the rotors, and your driving style
Well I just bought this truck almost a year ago. Haven't changed the brakes yet. Going to look for some decent rotors.. Any suggestions on rotors and brakes?
Rockauto.com
I just buy whatever rotors are cheap, and good ceramic pads. I've put 30k on my back brakes and 10k on my fronts and no warping (and I drive aggressively.)
Haha alright I'll check out that site.
They have really good prices there. I just ordered rear struts and mounts for my car for $160ish there. IIRC both times my brakes were like $60 shipped.
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it happens for many reasons all having to do with heat, the thickness of the rotors, and your driving style
Well I just bought this truck almost a year ago. Haven't changed the brakes yet. Going to look for some decent rotors.. Any suggestions on rotors and brakes?
Rockauto.com
I just buy whatever rotors are cheap, and good ceramic pads. I've put 30k on my back brakes and 10k on my fronts and no warping (and I drive aggressively.)
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What LOC did you use?
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What's happening to the old stuff?
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Fuel filter is in the tank. Attached to the pump.
Not always.
My car is along the fuel like like 2 ft in front of the tank. I think the 2nd gen W's were like this as well. I'll look it up to be sure.
EDIT: Google search says driver's side frame 'rail' in front of the tank. It mentions needing a special tool to remove the lines, but it looks exactly like my filter, which I did not need tools to remove
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Fuel filter needs to be replaces every 50,000miles might want to check that
Try like 15k.
I change mine at 15 and there is a BIG difference in restriction between the old and new. Run your filter to 50k and it will probably be plugged. It's like a <$10 part, why cheap out?
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I wouldn't call 24-5 to 20 massive sucking. Sounds to me like you changed driving style or are making shorter trips.
During the winter I go from getting 21-22 to as low as 16 because I let my car warm up and don't take as many long trips.
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Are you competing or just want good sound?
Personally I keep my mid-bass & tweeter very close to each other. Also you need to find the off-axis frequency response of the speakers you choose to run & this will assist with placement of these. Kick panels are always better if designed right.
The subwoofer you just have to play around with placement & enclosures..
I just want good sound!
There's a difference between good sound and SQ. You will find that SQ guys are completely, totally, ridiculously, unhealthily, anally OCD ( I mean...ily guys
.)Seriously though, true SQ requires tons and tons of money, time, and knowledge. The sound is phenomenal but not for everyone. I like having flat response, but most people hate it because "it sounds like there's no bass." Which is one thing most will notice in SQ, because the sub is meant to be totally transparent. The bass is there, but you're so used to big bass systems that you think the subs are off or something.
Honestly I think you need to ask yourself what you REALLY want: SQ, or a daily that plays music well.
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your box is to big
/You have weird wiring/you are clipping half to hell.
Just because your amp has 'true 2400 watts rms' doesn't mean you can't clip it.
Also the fact that only one sub is bottoming out is weird to me. Do they both move about the same?
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Here: http://eurolamps.com/eurolamps/camaro_gen1to4.htm
The 93-97 Camaro conversion should work on your car IIRC.
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The lows should have a plastic clip holding them in that you can break out, then RTV a 9006 HID bulb in. Alternatively I saw a 9006 halogen conversion housing for like $80 online. Look up 4th gen Camaro headlight conversion.
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If you want high beams you would need high/low, but DDM's 9004 hi/lo bulbs suck IMO. I would just get low beams and if you wanted high/lows get bulbs on eBay or somewhere else.
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I think I remember seeing people use PVC pipe as conduit before.
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Wire wheel or flap wheel it until you see bare metal then self-etching primer it. If you get holes you will have to get patches welded in. If you have holey doors just find rust-free doors, will probably cost less to get the doors than to get the patches put in.
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I wouldn't pay more than 4 for it, maybe try talking them down to 3500 and work up from there?
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lol I hear ya. I hooked mine up for lighting but I'm debating disconnecting the light because most of my lighting is blue and the switch is red
Never mind the fact that between my cupholder LED, my AC fan switch and my remote switch I have three totally different switches, all of which look like arse, all over my car ugh. What you gonna do though?I like to use flushed switches though. The ones I used you make a hole wherever you want to mount it (I used a dremel) then you just push the switch in until it pops. If you're ever going to have to remove it though make sure you can get access to the backside of the switch somehow. I stealth'd my remote switch towards the bottom of my dash so it's out of view of enforcement officials
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Take a 2-terminal switch, cut your remote wire where you want the switch at, put one wire on each terminal, test to make sure it's not wired backwards, make it look pretty. Not hard.
If you get a lighted switch, make sure you wire it properly. I didn't and the switch was lit all the time (they are usually only lit when in the ON position.) I just recently redid the wiring and now it works as it should.
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Lock cover?
What do you mean? Got a picture?
If you mean the plate on the door panel that holds the lock and window switches I have a pair of coupe ones floating around here. They're wavy from sitting in my trunk but are otherwise intact. If that's what you need PM me.
Otherwise, head to the junkyard. Last time I went to my local yard there were 20some grand prixs there. Anything from 88-96 interchanges mostly, except interior bits which changed in 94.
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All you need is a trash bag, some Windex and a sunny day.
Spray inside window like hell with Windex, cover with trash bag, let sit in sun for some hours. The ammonia will eat through the glue and it will come off.
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Sounds to me like it could be an aging oil pump as well.
I would not drive the car until you know what it is. Blowing a motor would seriously suck.
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Royal purple ftw
Yes sir! Best shit in the market! Proven horsepower!
Not even gonna touch this.
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I switched after a year with my car, no problems. I just get whatever cheaper synthetic change special at the parts store or the wal-mart synthetic gallon and a purolater filter
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Never mind the fact that between my cupholder LED, my AC fan switch and my remote switch I have three totally different switches, all of which look like arse, all over my car 
ugh. What you gonna do though?
3.8 supercharged ?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
It will fit in the cavalier, but good luck making it fit in the Ranger.