white4d96
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Posts posted by white4d96
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I would recommend editing or pulling the pic with your dad's Social Security card in it bro.
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Haven't been on in a long time, picked up a new car a few months ago, and time to start working on adding something to it. Need a few things:
PLEASE INCLUDE SHIPPING TO 53158 WITH ALL PRICE QUOTES!
ALL PAYMENTS WILL BE MADE PAYPAL, NO WESTERN UNION!
-6.5 coaxials, back speakers are crunchalicious. 50-70rms, 2 ohm or 4.
Also if anyone has any DC2 parts, hit me up, I have a long laundry list of parts wanted.
PM's will probably be best way to reach me, as I am not on here very often and I get email notifications.
Thanks in advance guys!
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There's also the Massive Nano series amps
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27732_Massive-Audio-NX4.html
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I kinda want a new tv, nothing fancy. If I can get something 32-42" and nice for under $300, I'll be all over it.
Otherwise, the girlfriend and I are probably going to the mall at midnight just to see what's good. I need some new winter clothes anyhow.
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It's got issues. For one, it's an 02 series and has some crazy distortion, for two, something's up with the rear amp's xover circuit as it keeps sending like a 1hz cycle through the speakers if the xover is turned on. It's been out for repair two or three times and still has quirks.
Maybe I should just cave and get another Massive for my mids and highs...
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Powers on, I don't think it goes into protect.
My Kicker 800.4 works fine though, so I'm thinking the input section went out.
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I swapped the 4-channel's RCA's to the sub amp and was able to get output to the subs so there's still signal going through. I think my amp crapped out.
I'm going to try swapping another amp in to see if that one works.
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The amp powers on now, but I get no output. Sub amp works fine.
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I have my remote wire for my amps running through a kill switch on the dash. I hit it the other day when I saw a cop, and when I turned it back on, my mids and highs amp wouldn't turn on. Pulled the fuses, put them back, now power on/no output. Sub amp worked fine the whole time. Is the kill switch what caused the failure?
Mids/highs amp is a Cadence F600-4, sub amp is a Massive N3.
I tried swapping RCAs around to no avail.
Ugh.
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You want a boost controller or a tune.
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Turns out both of them have Pandora, but apparently only if you have an iPhone, I guess it doesn't interface with Android? Buncha crap...I think I'm gonna go with the 3300, it's cheaper and all the features are on the face where I can access them (will be going in a center console)
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My friend got ATE? rotors from Tire Rack and Hawk pads and loves them. I got cheap rotors and some Raybestos ceramics from Rockauto for like $60 for the axle IIRC but I'm not as happy with mine.
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Message received. Now do I get the one with the bigger screen, or the one with Pandora...
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I didnt want to make another thread, but does anyone have experience with the Jensen VM9424? My current HU is starting to crap out on me and it's time to upgrade. Debating getting the 9424 or one of the above Pioneers (possibly the 3300bt as I love the heck out of Pandora.) Thoughts?
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That's a good point but I'm concerned that I won't be able to get a good navi system in my budget.
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YES! We use those 15 times a day! Seatcomfort systems or scs are qualjty product and will keep you in the warm! Also that price is awesome just a little more than i get them for! You will need some specialty tools tho. a set of hog ring pliers and a panel popper and some hog rings.
Awesome! I will definitely be pulling the trigger on this then!
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Browsing around at double din touchscreens, don't really have a budget but would like to stay in the $3-400 range. I'm debating whether or not to get a HU with Sat-Nav though. Something like this maybe:
BUT I have a nagging feeling that the cheap Sat-Nav interfaces are clunkety, outdated, and crappy.
Not to mention, if I buy a non-Sat-Nav unit, I could get something a little nicer, with a better interface, ability to set my own background, little stuff like that that we all love playing with. Something like one of these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32828_Pioneer-AVH-P4300DVD.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32843_Pioneer-AVH-P3300BT.html
...What do you guys think?
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I found these seat heaters on eBay and was wondering if anyone had ever used them before:
Taking the skins off the seats to install these will be kinda a pain but I think it will be a fun learning experience. I just don't want to go through a weekend putting them in to have them crap out. Anyone got experience with these?
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Eastwood has a rust converter that's supposed to be really good. I'm planning on using that on mine, then coating it with POR15.
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My car's 15 years old and I had no issues, other than where I had a breached injector O-ring I didn't know about. Water puddled around it and snuffed that cylinder out until it all dried out. Yours most likely won't do that because IIRC the 7M-G(T?)E motors don't have a retarded-ass intake design like my L82 does.
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Either a relay or a fuse.
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i have heard drilled rotor can crack. Since you are not racing on the track. I suggest you don't get it. Try slotted rotor instead.
Drilled rotors and slotted rotors will both crack but not under normal street use. Track use will crack them up.
False. Drilled rotors WILL crack even under street use because the drilling of holes in the metal creates stress risers that then fracture over time. I have never heard of slotteds cracking.
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What I've done in the past was covered anything electronic with a plastic bag (alternator, PCM, distributor) sprayed everything down with Simple Green or any other degreaser, then hosed it down with some pressure. It's not perfect but it makes a good difference.
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Do you open the dump valve on the bottom after every use?
Wanted: 4ga, RCA's, 6.5's
in Want To Buy
Posted
Edited to reflect stuff that I now have.