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Posts posted by Nirvalica
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This would be going into a 95 Jeep GC, so obviously the sub is in the same airspace as the rest of them. I have the sub crossed over around 70hz, but the box is tuned to 28hz. The front mid drivers I have crossed over at like 100hz (they are shallow mount woofers and couldn't take too low of a crossover) and the rear drivers (the ID's) I have playing like 60-200hz. They can play low and sound good, but just not loud enough. That's why I was thinking of building a ported box for them.80hz is fine for a freq response general start point but you need to first look up the CTX model and check the freq response zone of the speakers. Many mids don’t start at 80hz and may start response around 100hz. Even though I think you have other issues more pressing, if your mids were not designed to recreate a freq that low you may be out of luck having your current mids sound the way you want them to.What type of vehicle is this set up in? Is the sub in the same airspace as your mids? (all in the cabin or sub in the trunk?) What is the cut off freq of your sub? You said it is tuned low but how low are we talking?(not box tuning but crossover wise) How are you crossing the mids over? Amp high pass? What are your settings adjusted to?
Other than my questions keep in mind that you have only 2- 6.5's competing with an 18 on your human ears. Sounds properties make perfect sense but almost all studies have been recorded in controlled environments (ideal space, temp, constant controlled power etc) and don’t always work in theory inside a terrible acoustical environment. (all cars) Have you listened to the mids with the sub off? If so, are they responding to the midbass freq or just sound like shit on the good midbass notes? If they sound good you may need additional mids to achieve a complete sound.
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kinda a strange request dont you think?
you dont usually associate good music with a rear stage, and yet you have a rear stage and in addition you want to run more rear stage?
i have no experience with this kind of thing, but it seems like every extra speaker ive seen has been in a sealed box. but at the same time, i thought that speakers were mostly free air. i know some people have said that they have less low end response when they put their speakers into door pods cause they are taking free air speakers and enclosing them.
i dont know what you drive, but is a kick pannel speaker enclosure from qlogic or some customs ones available? or fiberglassing the rear portion of your door for some regular sized speakers?
Well, I heard different info about at what frequency sound becomes omnidirectional. I've heard people say above 50hz is directional, and i've heard below 300hz is omnidirectional. Now say that the latter is correct, I will have these speakers time aligned so it will sound like it is coming from the front. There are kickpods for my car, but I don't know how much that'll help with midbass. I don't really want to mess with fiberglass.
Now I was also thinking that these speakers might not work well sealed. I know door speakers are usually meant to be free air, so if they won't work well, I was considering buying some new 6.5" drivers. Then my question would be to buy "woofers" or "subwoofers" for this application. I know Steve used subwoofers in his front doors, so I could probably use something like that.
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My only conclusion is no one has experience with this...
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Since I got zero responses to my thread in the mids-highs section, I'm going to repost it in this section to get some responses....
As you can see in my sig, I have an 18" woofer tuned low and a pair of 6.5" comps in the front doors. I just installed my new kenwood hu and got all the DTA and positioning set up. Front stage sounds great, real similar to my studio monitors image and sq-wise. Only problem I have is that the front comps don't play midbass very well. They are shallow mount because my doors aren't very deep, so it makes sense that they aren't great for midbass. Now what I want to do is take a pair of 6.5" ID CTX mids I have and port them and have them sit behind my back seat. I will time align them with the front stage, so hopefully it should sound more like the front stage. My questions are
A. What should I tune to? I was thinking 80 hz.
B. Will the ID speakers work alright, and if not, should I buy 6.5" subs or 6.5" woofers?
C. What should I cross them over at? I was thinking around 60-200hz and have my sub play up to around 65-70hz
Please let me know what you think.
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LoLwAt!?
GM=Quality? I have to disagree with that. Nice try though.
Lol, no. I was trying to point out that the dude was comparing a specific model with a whole brand. You can't generalize a brand. But remember, GM does make caddy...
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It's like a BTL (SPL) and a JL (SQ)
Yea, like a Viper vs a GM
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Thread count? Are we talking about bed sheets now?
Anyways, what does "thread count" have to do with anything when it comes to wire? Why are more strands better?
EDIT: I'm sorry to thread-jack
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Couldn't be that hard... Just have to be able to cut metal and weld.
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Why dont you use the plug you have?
You can pull the pins out of the connector pretty easily, then just put the pins from your factory camera in there.
That's not his hand in the picture...
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Found a cool song with some cool sound effects, Michael Jackson- 2000 watts. Has some 3D effects going on in that song, a bit weird though, sounds like the voice is coming from all over the place. Worth checking out and pretty decent bass too
Sounds like the voices are out of phase or something. Sounds cool though.
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The song Jack Sparrow from the Pirates Of the Caribbean Dead Man's Chest soundtrack. It's the first song. Has a nice low bass line that comes in at about 5:00. Plus, the sound track is awesome anyways.
Gnarles Barkley- Transformer It's fast paced and different, but has some pretty good bass.
Enya- The Longships I haven't tried it, but I heard it has some good low bass.
Someone posted recently about some Owl City song that had some surprising low bass. I think the song was Meteor Shower. Has nice smooth bass and excellent sound quality. In fact, check out their album. Sounds real good.
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Sorry for the double post...
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honestly i wasnt blown away. we watched it opening day in 3d...yea the graphics are pretty, the story didnt seem breakthrough at all to me
You should go watch Teeth then...
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I would get a better power supply. Something like corsair. Also, like the man said, the mobo and case don't match. I got that in the fall and it's been working great for me. Everything looks good. You can also look at the Nvidia GTS250. I think it's the same as a 9800GTS or something. Check it out. I got one for like $125 and it came with COD5 free. Looks great too.
EDIT: Here's the graphics card I got. Maybe I got it on sale, but it's $142 w/ shipping. You can also get the same with for like $154, but it comes with COD4. There are some cheaper GTS250's too, but this is the brand I got and can vouch for. EVGA is also a pretty good brand. I would check them out.
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It's so you don't see the mounting screws.
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Im on my iPod touch now. Works great. I use it for Internet at school or when I travel where a laptop is too much of a hassle. I'd say either get that or a netbook. You can watch YouTube on the touch too btw
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What are the pros to jailbreaking? Free apps? I'm using my 2nd gen touch with the 2.1 os or whatever it is. I'll probably update to 3.1. I know I'll gain some functionality there, but I dunno why to jailbreak.
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You looking for material that is best at deadening or most area coverage of deadener? I would say get some damplifier lite for most area. I think that's cheapest. But if u want best deadening per square foot, I would think SPL tiles are what u want.
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It is said that oval speakers don't deliver the best SQ. It's because the cones flex abnormally compared to a round cone, similar to a square woofer.why stay away from oval speakers? i fail to see your reasoning.
That's what he meant.are you talking about making adapter plates for where the 6x9's are located?? and putting like 4", 5" or 6 1/2 or somthing -
I think he was going to get a 260amp alt and a xs or optima battery under the hood. Sounds like it'd be a strong enough electrical system to me.
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You can get a refurb A or B-stock SAZ-3500D for like half the price of it new.
http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?...ath=65_67_69_97
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How did you get the motor off the basket? I'm assuming you probably need to heat it up first? I was thinking that if I could get rid of the motor, maybe I could use it as a passive radiator.
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I'm excited to see how this looks and the functionality of it over the OEM design. I'm always wanted to do some sort of a franken woofer using my blown 15" R I have... Do they use standard coil sizes and are u having to tap holes to fit the 12 spoke on??
But that would be useless...
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I'd say stop being a bitch and just shove the wire in
I need Midbass
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
How would I go about fitting an 8" woofer under my seat?