Nirvalica
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Posts posted by Nirvalica
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Actually, I found some slim CDT speakers. Cheaper too. Does anyone know how these sound?
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5830/CLE6NEO--C...ge-Speakers.htm
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nope you cant get hertz online
Oh, ok. I was looking at a pair of CDT EF-6 speakers. They look in the picture like they might be thin, but there isn't any specs on mounting depth and I couldn't find them on their site. Does anyone know anything about these?
http://www.woofersetc.com/p1562/EF6--CDT-A...;-Midranges.htm
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hertz space series if you can find them
Anywhere I can get them online? There aren't really any car audio places around here that have anything other than JL and Alpine.
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No other ideas? No suggestions on shallow mids?
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The ones I would need would be $200, unless you know sumn I don't...
http://www.qlogicfactoryoutlet.com/index.p...71765564fbdee39
The only reason I'm more timid to get the kickpods over new speakers is because my brother will be getting this car probably this april when he gets his license. So I won't get my money back from it. If I can get them for $125 though, I will go that route. I just thought they were more...
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get the Q forms kicks about $125. then you get to use the IDs. this way your not gonna be wsitting on a pair of drivers, unless you plane to use them in the next car as a midbass. this way if you put the q forms in the car when you et rid of it if you sell it private and not trade slap a pair of cheap sony xplods in there and add 100 bucks to the price
I thought they were $200....
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I got a pair of Image Dynamic CTX6.5's. I didn't realize till I got them that the door speakers are a lot deeper then my old ones, and didn't fit in the doors. So I got some like 1/2" spacers. That worked. Now I'm having the problem that they are pushed up against or hitting the door panel on the inside. I could get kickpods, but I don't want to spend a whole lot and I might get a new car in a few months. Looking for some decent 6.5" speakers that are pretty shallow, yet sound as good as the ID's. I will be running these with the ID tweets and crossovers. I want to keep it to under $100 if possible, $150 max for a pair. Any ideas?
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I bought my type r used from a local shop and it had nearly identical rub mark on the surround. Only one tho, but in nearly the same place. The guy I bought it from said it'll work fine, there shouldn't be any problem with it. I used it for over a year like that, and there wasn't any thing wrong with it. I wouldn't worry bout it.
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Should be. It would be like 6.5cuft before displacement. Might be a small box for the sub, but you could prolly make it work. Obviously the sub will have to go on the 44x21" side, so make sure there is space for the sub on the outside of the box too. You don't want the box to be the exact size of your trunk and have the whole cone and surround jammed up against the trunk lid or something. Only thing is depending on the vent length, I don't know if it'll hit the back of the magnet. Not sure how deep the BTL is.
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theres not much of a difference tbh, the 880 is newer and darker...
You mean the 800?
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mine does this same thing. about half way it dont make a dif. no big deal to me though but this thread has my attention. also i have the SAE1000D but same knob.
Yea, I mean it's not like it's that big of a deal. Also, it's tough to dial in the exact volume you want between min and 1/2 way because the volume seems to jump between certain clicks. The volume change is not very smooth.
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Mine physically turns, but once it's past halfway, there isn't any change at all. Almost like the potentiometer attenuation range is shorter then the movement range.
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looks good. bass boost all the way down?
Of course. EQ on the headunit is flat as well. I never boost on an eq anyways, always cut if needed. Lowpass is at around 75hz and highpass is around maybe 25-28ish. It's just the knob. Maybe mine is bad, but I saw another video on youtube with a guy that had the same amp and knob, and he only turned it up halfway to show off his system too. So I'm assuming if he was showing off his sub he wanted the bass as loud as it would go, but since the knob seems to reach it's max at only half way, there was no need for him to turn it further. Makes me think it's just something about this model of knob or something.
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50 Hz tone, something around 30-35v. No load. I followed these instructions, but I calculated how many volts 1000 watts at 1 ohm would be, and set it to below that.
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I set the gain on my amp with the recessed knob on the side of it using a DMM. I set it lower then it can go w/o clipping. The remote knob (aka the one that has a wire and I attached under my dash) may control the gain, but considering I set my gain when it was all the way up, now it only acts as a volume knob attenuating the bass signal from the max i determined I wanted it to be and the minimum it can go. That essentially works as a volume. What I'm saying is the knob's attenuation through it's range isn't linear.
Maybe we're talking about a different knob, and that might be causing the confusion.
Mine is similar to this (I think a little newer though)
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http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ofer?sku=581348
http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ofer?sku=703556
Those home theater subs that are like $20+ thousand are retarded. These subs I posted are what the engineers/producers use that record/mix the movies and music that those expensive subs would play. Why spend that much on a sub when you can use the sub that movies and music were determined as sounding best on.
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its not a volume knob, its a gain. very different. the reason it wont get any louder is because you are going into clipping. thats very, very bad.
That can't be true. Even just reading this thread you all said that you set the gain with this remote knob turned all the way up. Which I did. So now tell me how I could be clipping? I'm not even pushing my amp as hard as it can go.
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Yea, I would definitely do that. Only real problem I had was figuring out how to wrap the fabric around the corners. I would say find one way, and just stick with it. I ended up trying it 4 different ways, but they all came out looking pretty much the same.
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I noticed on my knob that from the volume all the way down position to about 1/4 it seems to get louder gradually, then somewhere around 1/4 position the volume level jumps and somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 it seems to reach pretty much full volume. My Hifonics amp's volume knob functioned better, I wish they used the same cables.
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Yea, sounds the same lol Atleast it looks better when I look back at it. Before I just had a blanket draped over it. Looked like I had a dog crate in my trunk or sumn...
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Skittles, your box looks sick, btw. I like the aeroports as the air input for the fans.
Anyways, here are a few pics...
BTW, don't you love the way the headliner is falling down? lol
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I'm in Sussex County. I live in Sparta.
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Well, I finished it. Came out pretty good. I used some extra wood I found in my garage, cut it up to size, glued and nailed together, then wrapped it in some extra thick black fabric my mom had. I stapled that as best I could. I didn't know how to go about doing the corners and ended up doing it different for each, but they ended up looking fine. I used some industrial velcro my mom had somewhere, and it seems like it'll stay on pretty good. Thanks for the suggestions and help.
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Instead of the magnets, you can use velcro. You can get it real cheap at any hardware store.
True. You think that'll hold it on the box alright? I don't want it falling off when the bass is hitting.
Box building if you live close wana help ?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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The pet place with like a shark on the front of it? That's right near where my grandparents live.