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RMac18

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Posts posted by RMac18

  1. It's a mono block and can't be bridged. The sub you linked is a dual 2ohm so you can wire it to the amp for a 1ohm load however.

    1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

    Bridging an amp is when you have 2 or more channels and your linking 2 channels together to be a single channel. Example: you have a front right and left output, but only use the positive from say the left and negative from the right. So that your using both the left and right channels as a single channel.

    What you want to do with this sub and amp combo is done by wiring the coils to the amp in parallel. Follow the image above and connect the amps positive to the positive of the sub and then to the other coils positive. Do the same for the negative. Wire the amp to one coil and then to the other coil.

    Since its a mono amp and only has one output channel this wouldn't be bridging. You'll still get the max output of the amp which is what you were trying to do.

  2. Kicker website says between 1.75-2.25 cubes, so probably around 2^ft at about 35hz should work for you, download torres calculator and play around with it till you find something around there that you can fit, or post your max dimensions and I'm sure you'll get a few responses.

    So I want a final box of 4^ft? I have two, and are there like tutorials on how to use the calculator or something ?

    Yeah my bad, I did it for one, so your right since you have 2. What type of vehicle is it going in. If you have the dimensions you can fit in your vehicle post them and I'll try doing something for you really quick.

  3. Typical Led doesn't have a remote. But hooking the positive to a 12volt switched wire is recommended, otherwise the LED's stay on all the time. if you have a relay, run the positive from that. I dunno if its recommended or not but the 2 that are on my sub are wired to the Remote and the ground on my sub amp.

    I haven't had any problems with the front one, but have blown 2 on the back of the magnet cover on the inside the box.

  4. I'd check the remote wire for sure, sounds like it's shorting somewhere. I did the same thing kind of once, had it all working then when I put the interior back together I pinched the remote and grounded it out and the amp wouldn't turn on. So check that first.

  5. Are you adding the port width numbers together in the calc, since you are having 2 ports and all? Since whatever the width for one is there will be an identical one on the other side.

    For one sub in one chamber though, one port is the best.

    Would still have to account for the extra port wall, as the calculator is going to see it as one port with one wall inside the box.

    With the numbers you gave, do you need 2 ports or are you willing to use 1? Areo port(s) instead of slot ports? I'm sure we can come up with something that works.

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