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Darksideofsound

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Posts posted by Darksideofsound

  1. I think the reason they say to keep them away form the roof is so when you port back (like your case) there is plenty or room for the sound waves to travel around to make it up front. so to make sure your not choking your output i think

    (i could be wrong, just kinda thinkin out loud lol)

    ya, I was thinking that i might be choking them, just wanted to make sure I'm not....

  2. here this is from the site and if you use this youll only be underpowering them by a couple hundred watts

    3 ft3 (85.0L) + port displacement, Fb=40Hz

    Port: 45 in2 (290cm2) area x 18.75” (47.6cm) long

    Power Handling = 1400W Peak

    now, I was thinking about doing that....but would 1 sub at 1ohm with 2600wrms be louder(higher spl) than 2 subs at 2ohm with 1200-1300 each...???...

  3. ok, I have 2 kicker 12" solo x subs, and the kicker website says for best results in the lows and most power handling I should have each sub in a 6 cubic ft box, so I have my 2 12's in a 12 cubic ft box.

    I am running both subs at 2ohms off of a kx2500.1. the amp is 2600wrms at 14.4. so lets say each sub is getting 1200-1300 wrms....

    where i am not giving the subs what they recommend, should I make the box smaller due to the lack of power going to the subs??

    subs are 2500wrms a piece...

  4. no offense but if your box split then it wasn't built nearly good enough, and you are probably clipping to shit at 40 if you hit higher at 24 then 40....looks like you have a lot of problems to work out there...

    I never clipped at 40, it just sounded like crap, when I turned the volume down to 24, it hit higher, so then I turned my gain up while still at volume 24 and then I clipped. I think it sounded better at 24 because my amp was getting more than the recommended amount of signal volts.

    My box is an experimental box, i dont think it is crap, it just wasn't held together properly, or i had to much pressure in the box. we built it using 1.5" griping brad nails, just to try it. we used 2000 of them, plus we used liquid nails and we used fiber glass resin... I just think the brad nails were a bad idea, but the guy said it would work......

  5. its more then likely giving you a clipped signal. you dont have to use full volume. ur feeding 9.5 volts into ur amps?? that doesnt seem very safe. Can your amps handle 9v inputs???

    I'm looking that up right now, I think they can only handle 5v......I know I dont have to use full volume, and I wasn't on the eq, it was more of a testing issue, trying to find the sweet spots.

  6. sooooooooooooooooooo, I metered today, and as I was pounding away, my box split, and it sounded like a set of drums in my trunk at full tilt.....

    I hit 144.6 before the box broke apart........

    everyone that has told me to burp, says to max out volume and use pause button, well i did that, and it sounded like crap, hit only 138. I turned the volume down to 24 out of 40, and it hit 144.6 before breaking the box..

    I am using an audiocontrol four.1 eq with 9.5 volts rms, is this maybe why it sounded like crap at the higher volume?? should I disconnect the eq and use full volume?? HU has 4.0 volt pre outs...

  7. there is a big difference in using batts that were designed to be fast discharge. Kinetik Batteries are prolly the most used in car audio. I have run them for 4 years now and wouldnt use anything else (maybe powermaster, but xtra $$$). The optima is not a bad battery, but the kinetik is much better. depending on what vehicle you have, i would buy a kinetik that fits under your hood properly, and a 2400 for the trunk, run 0 gauge to connect them. Also look into a high output alternator, i have always used ohio generator, but there are many good brands out there.

    I have a dodge magnum, and I replaced the stock batt with a yellow top optima (D31A) and was looking to use kinetik for just the amp...kinda sounds like this is what I should do....

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