Darksideofsound
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Posts posted by Darksideofsound
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1987 called, it wants its gear back....
like everyone else has said....its your gear.
is that sub over 40 watts? cause if its from a house stereo, i dont think it would be. cant get 140 db outta something like that....i wouldn't expect it to pound either.....
your amp is usable, but get another sub, a car audio sub, not home theater.....and i wouldn't put mids and tweets in it either....
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ha you shoulda told him @ 155db you get brought back to life
now thats funny.....
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were from canada are ya?!
NB
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N E 1 got pics of removable ports??? or ideas and tips on building one?
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see, around where i am, there is only one other person that has a stereo that would even keep up with me, so if i keep my box tuned low and burp low, i'm alright with it, dont really care if i get "the most" out of it here.....but when I go to comps in the states(i'm from canada eh!!!), i want to get the most out of it there...
people up here just want to see high numbers....
I guess i will be building a removable port....
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Your burp freq. depends on your cars freq. My box is tuned to 33 hz, I peak at 40hz. You need to find the freq. of your car and build a box around 8Hz lower and that should give you the highest numbers. If I tried to burp at 60Hz I would be down 4 to 5 db's. Getting high numbers has nothing to with where you "think" you should burp at. Its all about where your car wants to burp at. Testing and more testing and then learning from the testing is the only way the get good numbers. Example of all this... I hit a 147.1 with a little over 1600 watts at a burp freq. of 40Hz.
k, time to get the tl out....
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As long as you don't go below box tuning buy more than a few hertz I think you should be alright.
My next box will have a removable port. Plus all thread and nuts for the speaker wires so I can change ohm loads and tuning at will.
ok, I wasn't going to change my ohm load, it is running at 2ohms now, and was going to keep it at that load even at the higher hz......
If i change it to 1ohm, and burp with a higher hz, can or will my subs be able to withstand 1ohm easier at the higher hz? cause i'm 2600rms at 2ohm, and it will be 5200rms at 1ohm.... subs are 2500rms a piece....I have 2.
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You could burp it that low but your better score will be higher. In my Ford Contour it was loudest at 57. My crx likes 54.
What you want to burp at depends on your cars frequency and the box.
Best thing to do if you don't know is play a sweep for comps.
Then if you want to get serious take a single 10 in a sealed box and play tones and see what your cars freq is at and have some one who knows boxes well design a box according to that. For competing that is.
I have a termlab at my disposal, figuring out my hz shouldn't be a prob, but would building a removable port be worth it then to get the higher hz to burp in a comp?
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ya, i knew that, but will burping at the lower hz hurt my gear?? to get the higher hz I would have to build a removable port, which kinda might suck, and I'm not sure if I wanna do that, I was thinking about keep it lower for music, but burping in comps at the lower hz....
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if my box is tuned to the lower hz..(30-35 or so) is it still ok to burp in a comp? or should i tune it to 70hz or higher to burp and leave the lower hz to music?
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ground each amp seperatly......then you know your ok.
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are you using one of the batts up front and one in the back? what is the model number of the yellow top? will the yellow top be in the back?
I wouldn't hook them up together in the back for your amp, I would think the yellow top would be good enough for your amp.
In reference to the overkill, the more batts the better, it just makes it easier on your system, but not necessary....
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You're new to box building and you're trying to build a box for a 15" BTL??
Where's my popcorn...
lol
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I was in awwwww watching that video....if that car catches on fire with him in it, I'm calling the darwin awards......
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i would say when it dips into the 11's its time to turn it down... just add another battery and you should be fine just dont play it alot at idle or with the engine off... im running 1000rms and have 2 batts... stock upfront and a 880cca batt in the back with a stock 105 amp alt and can slam it for atleast a half hour without dipping into the 11's
LOL, i got really horny to try my system before i got my batts, so i had my stock 140 amp alt, with stock batt, and tryyyyyyyyed to get 5200 rms out of it.......LOL, i knew better....
ended up having a nice whine out of the alt, and was dropping into the 10 volt range .....as soon as i saw that, out came the system....batts should be in on tuesday... replacing stock batt with 2 D31A yellow tops.
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even with a plastic shroud covering it, you could still bottom out and cause major damage...it only takes 1 time....and poof. I would try through the firewall and under carpet, might be alot more work, but it is worth the piece of mind....
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I was wonderin that too... If your a kicker guy l7s can get plenty loud. Or some solo x's if you wanna cough up some extra cash. I have seen both pretty inexpensive too.
ya, I only suggested L7's because he was worried about space.......I have 2 12" solox's.....and they are absolutely retarded....he should get 1 12", I had 1 hooked up for a bit and it is just insane.....
There you go man, 1 12" solo x, 6 cubic ft box, get a zx 2500.1, and not much will be able to touch you. Add a yellow top optima, and u should be under your budget.....
I can give you box specs and ideas if you need them.
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Well, with a kicker symbol on your profile....why not kicker? 2 12" L7 solo barics(4 ohm)....zx 1000, wire to 1 ohm.....would hit hard as hell......
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clip, clip, smoke.....clip, clip, smoke.......nothing, nothing, smoke....nothing, nothing, smoke.....fire truck, fire truck, smoke........
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i dont think $1500 will put you into 2 18's and an amp, and if you run those kinds of subs, you NEED to upgrade your electrical....ummmmm........why not try something like a 15" kicker L7 solo baric, and a zx750.1, the sub is 1000 watts rms, and the amp is always rated at more than 750 watts, mine was 938 watts....it is a loud combo...my zx750.1 i had was 1 ohm stable....you could run 2 15's.....
thats only a suggestion....you would have enough money left over for your box, wiring, and a battery....
if someone came to me here with that budget, thats what I would suggest if they wanted a loud system.
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Alright guy's, im new & shit to the system thing (i know a little about SPL - fuck SQ!)
I've got a 97 dodge ram ext cab blah blah & im either wanting
4 12's
2 15's
or 2 18's
Idk what's the best brand for me (Prefer FI)
Backseat will go out, I want at least 3k rms @ the minimum. Suggestions?
:hairtrick:
whats your budget first?
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I am sending him an email now.....
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Good call!
There are tons of dealers on the eastern seaboard. Give Scottie an email at [email protected] and ask him for some dealers that you may be near in the future. I love it when people don't cut any corners and get the best that they can afford. Good for you man!!!
I NEVER cheap out, thats why I dont even have a battery in the back yet....i want the best...
THANKS ALOT MAN!!!!!!
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You said that your a truck driver right? Do you ever drive through Tennessee? If so that's where XS Power is located and you could talk to Scottie J and I'm sure he would let you come right to the factory to get one.
None really I'd say that it would take at least a Kinetik 2400 and a 2000 to equal the brute strength of the D3100. In a drop in comparrison a D3100 was .9 db louder on a burp than the Kinetik 2400. I don't care who you are that almost 1 db is well worth trying to locate a battery instead of setteling for another lower quality brand.
Ya, I'm a truck driver, dont usually go to TN, mostly east coast...maybe I should just get a PO BOX on the other side of the border, and see if they will ship one to it....????....
And thats why I want a d3100, and not kinetik, QUALITY.....I dont want to buy something else, then kick myself in the ass for not getting the d3100.....and wasting money.
Still Whiningg
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
X2, we had the same problem, and we had to ground the rca's. try a different set of rca's, now that you have switched the deck, take another set, hook them up, but run them outside the car to the back where your amp is, it might work that way....