Darksideofsound
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Posts posted by Darksideofsound
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ok, i will re-ground the head unit, how do i ground the rca's?
speaker wire is all new.....its that big blue wire that has all the indivdual speaker wires within it and the remote is in it also......
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heres my set up....
2006 dodge magnum, 4 channel amp and 1 channel amp in the rear, power wire and rca for the sub are on the right side and the 4 channel rca and remote wire and speaker wires and the phone line for the sub amp are on the left side. both amps grounded to the battery.....
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Your RCAs are probably running next to or with your power wire for an amp
no, they are on the opposite side of the power wire...i should have meationed that....
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ok, i have engine noise, can someone help me figure out why....???
Or at least tell me how to figure out what is making me have engine noise....
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what program is being used to add bass, i imagine it could help me remove vocals...N E 1??
PLZ HELP....
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looking for a used term lab...good condition, all equiptment needed.
let me know.
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big 3 wont do much if you have a bad batt. Big 3 isn't gonna fix your problem, might pro-long your batt, but it sounds like your batt is done.
put a dmm on your batt and start playing some beats, see what the volts go down to....
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What a tline is, is a guide, your Only delaying the rear wave from the front wave until the rear and front wave re align and create a whole lot of bass
explain......i wanna learn more.....
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i think the HU is bad. try another HU.
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i could be wrong but i dont think kicker amps are 1ohm stable... just 2ohm although i dont know anything about the kx series just the sx and zx
I had a kicker rep tell me the kx is 1ohm stable even though they might not advertise it. I have one right now, and ran it for about 6 months at 1ohm daily, and beat the livin shit out of a solo x and had no probs....
I dont even know if this is the way I want to go, but I have all kicker system, and dont want to wonder away from it...
but I need 4500-5000 watts rms.....
NOT going warhorse.....LOL
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Has to be working 100% and be 1ohm stable, dont care what it looks like....to a point. I can pay by paypal or any other means, and I live in canada, so you would have to ship to canada with insurance....other than that.....
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dont know if this will help, but I am on the same page....
I had 1 12" solo x hooked to my kx2500.1, so 2600 watts rms to one sub, hit pretty good.
now i have 2 12" solox hooked to my kx2500.1. about 1300 watts rms to each and it made a MASSIVE difference...alot louder.
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yea imma have to look for a smaller female connector. or just use pliers like you said. ill work it out it aint no biggie
just use pliers to squeeze them together, just a bit....i do it all the time, but there are connecters for that size. your local stereo shop carrys them, or radio shack, like that other guy said has them.
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yeah that seems to be a little to small, how wide is your port? i've always heard that you should have at minimum your port width away from your hatch
ya, I heard that to, example...6" deep port, should be 6" away from the nearest obstruction....
mine is 6" deep.....but to get the cubic ft i needed for the subs, I had to sacrifice the room for the port...but the port is 39.25" wide, so it can breath ok under normal listening....i would think...
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It looks like your fine with the subs to the roof, but it looks like your port/box is too close to the hatch. how much room is there from the hatch to the port?
Edit: when the hatch is closed.
the back of the hatch is curved, so at the most in the middle would be 3", and I know that is to little, but i dont pound the subs for my daily use, when in a comp, i push the box up towards the front of the car, then I have almost 9".
my back seats are angled, so that is why I have the box the way i do...seats go down, and I have that extra 6" of room to use.
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ok.....
this is how close my subs are to the roof....is it to close?
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pictures would help
see its a catch 22... the closer to the roof the more loading and pressure can be built up on the cone... but with ports back... it can also limit air flow
it wont let me add pics, or I'm just not doing it right...
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pictures would help
see its a catch 22... the closer to the roof the more loading and pressure can be built up on the cone... but with ports back... it can also limit air flow
pics eh.....give me 5 mins....
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whats the system ur planning on installing in the civic?
that would be 2 12" solo x's.....think i'm looking for a new amp now....
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You just can't take a box out of a car that does a certain number and expect that by putting it in a smaller car it will be louder.....I've had boxes in my Burban that I've swapped out into the cab of my S10's extended cab and it sounded like ass... Gained maybe 1- 1/2db's but not the magic "jump" I was looking for by moving everything to a smaller space.
My S10 likes to tuned alot higher then the Burban.
Best bet would be to build a box that is tuned to your honda and then put the equipment you have in the Wagon and see what it does.
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LOL, BTW, my box is 12.76 cubic ft, i dont think i could even cram that box into a civic...
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I believe he has 2-solox's dual 2ohm(not sure what size) and a kicker 2500.1? So Im not sure your gunna see 150's unless you do a crx with area ports, you might see that with 91 civic hatch. It also depends on the build, like 1Low said you won't be able to just move it. I would rebuild it for the 91 but thats just me talking becuase I own 2 of them and love those cars.
yup, your right cr@sh, thats my system....I'm looking for another kx2500.1, but not having any luck. I realize 150 is a hard number, and i dont think my 2600 watts will do it....
can u suggest a good amp that is about 4500-5000 wrms? money is not an option, i just dont think i want to run 2 seperate amps on 2 seperate subs....
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You just can't take a box out of a car that does a certain number and expect that by putting it in a smaller car it will be louder.....I've had boxes in my Burban that I've swapped out into the cab of my S10's extended cab and it sounded like ass... Gained maybe 1- 1/2db's but not the magic "jump" I was looking for by moving everything to a smaller space.
My S10 likes to tuned alot higher then the Burban.
Best bet would be to build a box that is tuned to your honda and then put the equipment you have in the Wagon and see what it does.
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LOL, come on now......i'm not a noob anymore....LOL
I would have built a new box and all, I was just wondering if i did, would it make a difference...
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maybe....it all depends man...some cars meter well and some dont. a civic hatch should get loud though.
ya, i heard that. when I fix my box, i should be hitting around 147-148, in my station wagon....i'm kinda trying to hit that magic number of 150....thinking a civic may help me out being alot smaller and all....
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ok, so my station wagon is really big, and when I metered last I hit a 144.6db legal on TL. (MAJOR box issues, thats why the low score)
if I put my system in a small 2dr civic hatch(1991) would I hit better numbers just because I am trying to pressurize a smaller space?
would the numbers change dramatically?
engine noise through speakers
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Posted
grounding rca's didn't work, and I re grounded the deck, didn't work either.....