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iTech

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  1. hmm after reading this im kinda geting seccond thoughts on picking up a DC sub. i really wanted a lvl3 but since im down in hawaii its hard i only know one person with lvl4.

    how many of you guys on here bought a dc sub and something failed so u had to return it back.

    sorry im not trying to thread jack

    thanks

    I don't think you should change your option of getting this sub over this incident. No one know FOR SURE what happened. Not many problems occur with DC Audio unless it was caused by the user. Every company isn't perfect but alot on here have great customer service and will help you out the best way possible. :good:

  2. Gains, Gains, Gains. . .everyone blames it on how the gains were set. . .

    How the volume was set is what kills it.

    My 40.1's are set with the gains on MAX. Never hurt a sub or an amp. . .

    Gain setting is over rated. . .User control of the volume knob is the actual problem. . .

    BRian

    Volume and Gain Setting come Hand-In-Hand.Gains are there to match the output voltage of the HU.

    You can have the gains at max and the HU on vol 1 or gains down and HU vol max and get the same power.

    They depend on each other.

  3. not sure bout his but on my hp there is a switch on the laptop that turns the wireless on or off do you which model it is

    Yea me too. Mine is a Dell Inspiron 1525 and it has a switch on the side.

    Try going to network settings and right clicking on the Wireless Adapter or something like that and try to see if it says Connect or Scan.

  4. I'm still pretty new to the car audio scene, but I would think something like a handheld would be on hand at most shops? I dunno much about the shop in question...its near the gym I go to so I drive by it all the time....its either that or best buy :) haha jk

    Most of the shops just do it by ear. but it's always nice to have a o-scope so that you'll know that the speakers are getting unclipped signal.

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