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extremeauto

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Posts posted by extremeauto

  1. haha you know you can buy an aux to rca cord for about the same you would take the time to cut and splice head phones and rcas together !!!!! i baught a six foot aux to rca cable for 5 bucks and then bought a 20 foot aux cord for 12 bucks and a dual female aux cupler for 4 bucks to have my laptop hooked up to my receiver adn still sit in my recliner accros the room and hide the wire under the couch and carpet . anyways an aux to rca cable is cheap

    cheap walmart rca's 2.96....... earbuds 5.99 electric tape 0.99 walmart time spent spliceing 5 mins haveing all your friend try to figure out how you have killer bass&SQ on ur pc.....priceless!!!

    ive been doin these cords for @8 years and never knew they sold em

  2. So I don't know shit about home audio.. I have a receiver ill post model number in the morning but it doesnt have a usb slot for my Ipod. It still has a phono one and aux rca inputs tho. It's kinda older maybe 10 or so years. I would like to be able to play my ipod on it. Also i wanna know how to hook up a car sub to the receiver... Do i have to have a car amp? what do i need to hook that up if so... Thanks guys again i feel like an idiot on the home audio stuff lol just seems so different to me haha..

    this may not be the right way but its fast and cheap..........

    take a old pair of headphones and cut the wire from the headphones leaving you with a headphone jack and wire.next cut a pair of rca cords to desired length. strip both cut ends.take the reds twist and tape,whites twist and tape bare wires twist and tape...then pulg the rca's in the stereo,ipod to headphones and ur in business...i use these cords on my ipod,pc and other devices.

    as far as hooking a sub to the home receiver its just like hooking a sub in the box it came from...if not i would look @ radio shack for crossovers and floow its instructions...hope this helps

    also i run walmart daul 12"S on my pioneer reciver @100 wtts eacd and it sound graet and has worked for 3 years...lol(yea im cheap)

  3. i used to super glue razor blades to my deck and wiring harness...had some leave a blood trail from my truck down the drive deck was still hanging by the wires...lol but i couldn't agree more about the 2way alarm being a must if you have nice system.... scyteks are very reasonable and work great i have 2 of them 1 on my grand am gt the other on my truck .they are pretty easy to install ....good luck

  4. Right now I have a 2004 ford escape and have horrible voltage problems. I have a sprinter bat in the back and a yellow top up front. I cant do the big three because I would have to drop the front axle. What is the best vehicle for car audio besides a van? I need easy access to the alt and alot of room.

    2004 Ford Truck Escape AWD V6-3.0L VIN 1

    Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Charging System Alternator Service and Repair

    Service and Repair

    GENERATOR

    REMOVAL

    Disconnect the battery cables.

    Remove the right intermediate axle shaft.

    Remove the right lower splash shield screws and the pin-type retainer.

    Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.

    Remove the nut and position the bracket and wiring harness aside.

    Remove the upper generator mounting bolts.

    Remove the lower generator bolts and position the generator aside.

    Remove the generator mounting bracket bolts and remove the bracket.

    Remove the generator electrical connectors.

    1 Remove the B+ nut and cable.

    2 Remove the connector.

    Rotate the generator to gain clearance, and remove through the opening in the fender well.

    INSTALLATION

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.

    calls for 2.3 labor it is a B**ch but do able i got bored and looked this up on alldata

  5. easy way to see if ur alt is charging as it should is to disconnect the power from the batt while the car is running if it dies u need a new alt 4 sure...(negative or positive wire it dont matter just be careful with that positive wire)also you could have a dead cell in that bat i would get a bigger bat A.S.A.P and then work on a 2nd bat...also did you do your big three? it will help a lil even with a stock alt

  6. i would do the big three and also run at least 1 0 gauge wire from the frame in the rear to the body so you know you have a good grounds ...also make sure all grounding points are clean bare metal...when u do ground to the body from the inside i would use at least a 8mm/ 5/16 bolt with nut and lock washers.....i usually use my seat belt bolts cause there is a wide piece of metal to act as a clamp.and a extra batts is NEVER a bad idea...good luck hope this helps u get that powa

  7. i would say go with the birch....i have my first birch box and i love i have always used mdf but it seem to break apart easy..what i have noticed is there is less dust in my truck when i bump, no more box blow outs and it is lighter and looks better ....the bad is it is hard to work with if ur a noob(like me...lol) and it cost more but i say try the birch you wont go back :good::good:

  8. i have always used MDF but i now own my first birch box after my 12" sundowns broke a pre fab BBox and my home made mdf slot ported box..the 3 layer brich is way stronger,smell better,has less dust and looks great it cost a bit more than the MDF ...but i will never use MDF again now that i have tryed the birch

  9. i have 1995 Honda passport and i have been told it is a good stereo truck...put a mechman alt on it all i had to do is stretch the alt bracket...lots of room under the hood and my windows are pretty straight with little curve in them ...side to side it is 49"@wheel wells .i have x2 sundown sa 12"s doin a 145.4 in a midwest legal spl box on music(i think im a 146 since my subs broke in) i run a hifonics hfi2500.1 with 3 extra batts....truck books for $1700 ude with 160k mile so its a good cheap system truck .........hope this helps cause i know i like my truck and its 17mpg

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