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extremeauto

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Posts posted by extremeauto

  1. here is what i have so far...2 fully loaded Fi BL 18s on a hifonics hfi2500.1 @.7 ohm(upgrading to a hifonics colossus...and it takes .7 ohm like a champ!) 6 sets of speaker mids...PB 3 1/2,Pyle 5 1/4,RE 6 1/2 coaxles,Bose 3",pioneer 4x6s,pioneer 3 1/2s running off a Jensen 400 and a Jensen 720(upgrading) kicker tweets,boss tweets and factor Bose tweets,big 3 0 gauge,interstate 1100ca 1800ccasemi bat,x2 weerker 18 amp hour batts,shuriken 45 amp hour bat.gonna add 2 xs power D3100s soon,mechman 220 amp alt, ballistics sound deader...etc much more to come keep in mind i am no carpenter i know my cuts are not perfect i am getting better. :noob: ..lol please like and sub my vids if u like them :good:

  2. yeah the other thing with c.l is the bs claims like hitting a 210 on 1 vr3 6.5 on a sony xplod amp

    but man those make my day i get up every morn and drink my coffee on C.L and it makes my day when i see shit like i have 2 boss 12"s in a box on a lanzer 900 watt amp this system hits 173 db daily!!!!

    or hi im selling my 3 kenwood 10"s in a custom box i had it metered and hit 155.6 on music! asking $1200 o.b.o!.....lmfao

  3. If I hadnt made my first trip to the strip club this past saturday I'd buy that amp off ya right now for $200! plus i need to invest in electrical too first so :pardon:

    But honestly I think a big part of it is how patient you are. If youre in no hurry to sell it don't go a penny under $200 :drinks: otherwise adjust accordingly

    honestly if want it pm me and ill give you a better deal... but it does not do rated ....it sounds amzing and pushes the hell out of my FI bl 18 tho...lol

    and yea i have a lowest price and have been sticking to it

  4. well said all of you...item i was talking about was my crappy but in new shape hifonics hfi 2500d no scratches never abused still have every thing it came with ...it sells for $279 on Amazon i was asking $200 case it dont do rated and is used i would drop down to 175 but didnt post that in my add...lol...i have had some asshole texting me all day saying im trying to rip kids off and im a moron to try to get that out of a used amp he is gonna flag my add...etc i asked him to come see the amp in person and discuss and got no address or offer to come to me but lots of sht talking...lol now im not 1 to start fights but man.... i guess i got infected by the dudes stupidy ...lol and yea Craigslist blows now it used to be a great place for me to make money but it seems only broke trash frequent C.L these days...lol i would post it here but most on here would not want it...lmao :rofl:

  5. ok so i dont know if this is the right section but im gonna give it a shot...

    ok so i have stuff listed online C.L,trading post forums...etc and its mostly C.L but it seem s ever time i post some thing i get some whinny ass lil punk crying that my price is to high....for example i have a hifonics hfi2500D on c.l i am asking 200 O.B.O(would do low and say so just list high to kill lowballers) they are 279 new if you can find 1....and i get texts,emails even some douche posted a add saying that all the car audio on C.L was to high and its only worth half of what it cost new....WTF? REALLY so if i pay 300 for a amp spend 600 to run it correctly & am damn careful to keep it looking brand new + have everything it came with i should only expect what some kid kid would get that ran a 8 gauge wire to a 0 gauge in put with a 90 amp alt sliding around his trunk should get?

    it dont make sense to me ...dont get me wrong i would love to get some stuff half price that was babied ...but it dont happen very often....

    any way that's rant part now my question would be what would be some fair pricing on used car audio that was taken care of and has every thing that it comes new with?

    i really could use some help with this cause i am doin something wrong....i used too be able to knock $25 off what i was selling and it would move the same or next day ...now i get nasty message's & have had the same stuff for sale for months ....lmao

    anyway if u have had the same issue or have feed back let me know cause im at this point lost...lol

  6. gunna go talk to ford and find what those wires are

    i'll be back to update in a bit

    and why would i need gap coverage ?????

    im a bit slow today but it sounds like the frnt batt... best thing i could tell u is to get a 0 gauge fused link and run it to a distribution block ....then to you wires...the 4 gauge (if this is the frnt batt) would be pcm wire,alt wire & the pcm or fuse-box wire...the alt should have a inline fuse already (and you need to run 0 gauge frm batt to alt with a fuse) pcm/fuse box should already be fused & the starter wire does not need to be fused(i have not seen 1 starter fused in the 20 years i have been messing with cars)...gap insurance is a insurance policy you can get through most dealers when you buy a car that will pay of the loan no matter what you do to the car that totals it...ie wreck,ELECTRICAL FIRE,or any thing else that would put you with out a car....lol

  7. Hmm I was thinking about the double baffle last night too, and yea, I was contemplating the 45's, I've been reading that some people say it didnt matter, some say it did as usuall lol. And you mean flush mount as in the sub will be mounted on the first baffle and the second baffle will go on top of the sub? (if that makes sense? lol) But my main question is, did i get the port length correct? (as Torres calculator said it should be?)

    Thanks!

    yow will need to add 2 for shared port walls & aslo put 4.57 in the desired net volume(gross volume subtract port volume)brings you down to 30.41hz ...i have noticed that boxed that are 45 do sound better and get louder......not sure on the specs for your sub but after you fix it if 30.5 hz ok. it looks good to me if it will work 4 you

  8. i am looking to see what all is out there as far as a good used amp ..i want/need another hifonics HIFI2500.1 for my new build (i know there are better amps out there but i like the 1 i have) i would like it to be in halfway good shape as far as looks and must be 100% good working order. i have a hifonics brutus(older bxi 1600 nothing wrong with it) or i would be willing to pay up to $200.00 these amps are $279.00 new i only want a hifi 2500.1 thats it i am running 2 18"s and need matching amps ....also will need a max link if any1 has 1 for the low

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  9. mine is wierd i have 40" wheel well 2 wheel well ...31" tall at hatch 36"@the back seat and can go 52" wide if i clear my wheel wells that are @6" tall i have a box designed now for my 2 Fi bl 18"s ....its gonna be 31"tall,40"wide22.5 deep and have a 10"x16" port tuned @31.46 hz

  10. has anyone put an after market head unit into a 99 ford taurus?

    I looked and looked and none of the wiring diagrams matched this car.. so I found the constant and the ground and put the head unit in.. then I couldn't find the remote.. so I wired the remote wire form the radio to the constant for the time being... then I turned on the radio and started putting speaker wires together... the radio is on.. but no sound will come form any speaker.. fml

    it might have a factory amp i have done a few Taurus's (as far as mechanics go i am the Taurus king i have been told...lol) what i usually do that is easiest is just run my own speaker wire. you can go thro the factory door looms but its a b**ch. only way to get it to work is to hook up the factory radio and get a test light and go on each wire to see if it has power cut any wire that does and rewire each time and when u get no sound but everything works on the radio i would say u have the factory remote wire...then u wire that to ur head unit remote wire and you should be in business...this way works i could never find a good wiring diagram of the Taurus radio ....hope this helps
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