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Nova

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Posts posted by Nova

  1. Okay can Dime, person who banned me please explain why I was banned? Only thing I did was swear at the 3 children that were lagging out my internet. It's not against forum rules to swear so wtf? Yes I got back on and did the same thing back, eye for an eye right? Then Mellow proceedes to bring in another account, "ImnotMellow" and do the same thing again. Come on... I'm trying to chat and I'm getting fucked with and pissed off, so I get banned.... Come on man.

  2. Can't help your problem but I did a quick google and it seems like you're not the only one having this problem with this amp... apparently you bought a shit ass amp. Here's a review I found-

    "MTX must be putting more emphasis on quantity over quality. After only 6 months the TC6001 stopped working. I took it to the local stereo shop and they told me it's putting out straight DC voltage to my subwoofer. Unfortunately it fried my subwoofer. Now, not only will I have to get a new amp I will have to get a new sub too. Thanks a lot MTX."

  3. guessing your runnin AQ and try getting a 200a alt or larger and yes 1 or more batts for the system in that back would do.

    It's in the cab, not the back. I'm also running rockford amps. 1 1000bd and 2 600.2's But it's a 1970 K10 Chev. that I'm starting on my custom interior. Putting some bucket seats and fabing my own center console. These trucks from the factory had the gas tank behind the seat so the cab has a recessed pocket for lack of a better description. I'm going to be covering the recessed part with some MDF and putting the battery or batteries back there along with a couple 6 1/2 comp sets in the MDF. You would have to see one to get what I'm talking about.

    Anyway, I have the option of a 200 amp, 250 amp, and 300 amp alt. from excessive amperage. Which should I go with for 2200 RMS? I'll worry about the upgrading if it comes.

  4. IIRC that component set gives you 2 options for hooking them up. One was is that each mid and tweeter has it's own input into the crossover. The other way is to have each set (mid and tweeter) run from a single input into the crossover. There is a switch (or jumper or something) in/on the crossover that lets you select how the inputs work on the crossover.

    I'm a dumbass. You're correct. I take the cover off and flip the bi-amp switch off then run through the tweeter + and - . Thank you! Now another question as arose. Since i'm wiring the amp through the crossover, how do I tell the draw from the amp? It's a 4 ohm woofer and 4 ohm tweeter. If wired with the amp through the tweeter input on the crossover, then each speaker off their outputs, will this be drawing a 8 ohm load from the amp or a 4 ohm load from the amp?

  5. That's what I thought but I just realized I have another question. There isn't just 1 input. There is woofer input and tweet input as well as each output on the crossover... Should I just wire the woofer and tweet input on the crossover to the same output on the amp?

  6. I'm picking up a couple Rockford Fosgate Power T1652-S component systems and I have a wiring question. I would go from my deck to my amp with RCA's, then to the crossover, then the speakers, correct? My dad is trying to tell me I should go deck, crossover, amp, speakers.

    Edit-

    It says 100wRMS. Is that both woofers + both tweeters = 100wRMS

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