windowtinter
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Posts posted by windowtinter
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cuz they designed for sealed setups really. look at old school subs they work well sealed but need a huge box to go ported.
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best way to handle it is to remove factory wire going through clamp and replace with 1/0 it also makes a big difference if you run the negative terminal of the system all the way to the front instead of body ground the more current you pull directly through the ground clamp up front the better the ecu sees the loadand keeps the college up on the alt.
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i know guy that is running [email protected] strapped and as long as he doesn't go crazy with gains it will play but when pushed too hard they will protect. of course he meant have near the elec. that you have. truth is with that amp and that much battery power wire it up set gains with a 0db tone and let it rip if there is any problems it will go into protect.
IM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU BLOWING YOUR AMP!!!!!
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Have you put a load tester on each battery individually? Depending on your set up could be a bad battery loading up the alt and burning diodes? it never hurts to check them.
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Start with sub up port back. To get loud your gonna end up quite a few boxes.
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Tune somewhere between 5-8Hz below car peak as the box will peak a lil higher than it actual tuning Hz.
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No numbers with both amps can't keep them together long enough to break em in and get to a TL important bound and determined to get it right. this is a daily music type build so it looks like right at a super clean 3500 it should be. As soon as records show up ill keep everyone updated. they are M2 as well.
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This is what i was after 3000 clamped sounds about right to me maybe a smidge more. i was using a negative tone so that the power level between clamped tone and music will be closer. I knew this would be an issue when we added the second amp, if rusty would hurry the heck up with the new lvl6 hopefully this issue will disappear!
I've heard testing has gone very well! -
ok so I have 2-12k @.5 each on 4-xl18's the only problem is stright up think i got too much power. The amps are scoped clean and even a little conservative (120volts ac iirc) with a -5 db tone. had three subs go down not because of clipping/ heat as coils are still wound up on the former and are nice pretty as new. the fail point is in the winding where it makes a 90* turn from vertical to start winding around the former. It is just opening the winding up as if it were a fuse and that were the area of most resistance. This is where my idea of too much power comes from. That being said when i go back and rescope the amps im going to start low and clamp my way up in power question is where should that power level stop, what is going to be the physical wattage limit to the coil in the xl? I plan on using a -5db tone to keep it close to the level of daily music subs are in 4.5ish per with 15sq" port per cube tuned @35hz. basically i got the power to do it without heat from distortion i just need to have a good idea of real world power limit. 3500-4000 was what i was thinking. looking for real info here from people who have used these or know about the coil limits themselfs im not a newb just looking to get the most out of this setup as possible with out having to do a re cone everyother week.
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Not alot you can do carbon dust cap, add extra tinsel leads and more spiders ar cone which gives you wide roll surround i think that's about it for a xl
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Had a spec in my and talon. a 6puck sprung unit it held way more power than the act full face the was in it. the only prim i had is the first clutch plate they sent had a slight warp to it and would cause the tyranny to bind and get stuck it took a comealong tied to the wall to pull it back off they took cater of it of course installed the new one and never had a problem.
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The all purpose not the plumber version. put tape on the outside part you can see. goop the surround from the back side. let dry peel tape if you do it right you really won't be able to tell.
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45 is usually a good point. but like was said above the port tuning doesn't affect how low it will play as much as your sealed volume will.
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Sorry if i implied you should go that big was just using that to make the point that general rules are good but only general you will need to test tune and retest. but if ya build as big as you can you can always go smaller till it get where you want it.
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Im all for rules of thumb but after talking to jarod about his team nemesis jeep the rules of thumb did not apply to his application so with that being said build as big as possible make it so you can move the sealed side to make it bigger/smaller. then start tuning the loading wall. 4 15's 8.5-9cubes sealed with a 4.5:1 ratio and port tuning around 37Hz keep in mind he's the middleweight bassboxing champ and it peaks at 45Hz with tuning that low.
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And that is exactly why i don't work up front i keep my assets in the install bays. This happens almost two three times a day.
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Kevlar neck joint will take care of that. Just so happens these will have just that, goodbye broken cones!
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Im on a phone but that pic doesnt look like the coil is fried. is there something im missing.
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the 1cube is without port volume added. and yes smaller boxes usually have pretty long ports to get tuning low.
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Could be the dd1 picking up a tiny blip from some type of interference. We have been using the dd1 on almost every car we put through the shop there has been a few times were the light would come on almost imeadiatly and after doing some checking with an o scope we find there is a tiny blip on the sown side of the wave that the dd1 will see and light the led. moral of the story check all your connections and rca there may be a false reading from the dd1 check with a scope if you have one or access to one. also what track did you use to dd1 it?
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Whats i tuned to?
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Whats it tuned too?
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Good decision.
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Yeah i midsed that part with that much per sub your probably gonna run into soft part problems. but it should move some air till they let go.
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I've heard testing has gone very well!
How the DD-1 Saved a customer
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted
i hate when "shops" install stuff they don't know about crank gains and blame the product. had a customer that got 2 lvl 5 &2 5k we gave him a quote to do it the right way he didn't wanna pay that much. so he took it to another shop across town, less than two weeks after he brings the car by our shop. first look i could see a box that had tiny ports and defiantly not enough volume. but the worst part was he had destroyed one of the subs because he was clipping the shit out of it. i explained to him his problem but then he asked why the shop that did the install didn't set them properly and why his box was way off. i explained that's the difference between us and them. currently he is planning a new build that we will do. but it amazes me how often "shops" have no clue about box rise clipping shit most can tell you what there ported boxes are tuned to.