-Hobby-
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Posts posted by -Hobby-
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Wired up the amp today. Mounted the sub and took it for a test ride. Sounds pretty good. Glad to finally have some bass back in the shop.
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Hopefully if things go well I will be adding another 800 sq ft to the shop and putting a real roof on the place sometime next summer. I just cant wait that long for some beats so this is just to hold me over until then.
I have to blow the dust out of that thing every time I do any woodworking. The power supply and heat sink fan just sucks up everything. But yea it is easy as hell to do.
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I do sheetmetal work out there. Its a noisy job. All I hear is banging and rattling all day when im out there. Hopefuly it wont be too bad. In the last place every thing on my work bench would rattle and bounce around and that was with the sub in a box sitting on the floor 20 feet away.
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Heres picts of the stereo and computer. Low budget Pioneer stereo I picked up at Best Buy a few years back. Have some Polk rear channels on the shelf to the left and right. Dont have the amp out there yet. Will hook that up tomorrow when I mount the sub.
The computer is in a custom case lol. I always wanted to just mount the parts to the wall so I went ahead and did it in the new shop. Syill need to mount the CD drive. Connect to the house with the wireless adapter to access my music on the main system. Its all old hardware but its still chugging away.
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well it looks good so far, although when you mount the woofer to the rafters i would put a few sheets of dynamat down so help stop rattles
Everything in the shop is going to rattle lol. Shitty old galvanized roof and small pieces of metal everywhere. I have had music out there for a while but never but the sub back in. Had a 12" TC-9 in the old shop but thats going in the house. I cant take having no bass in the shop anymore.
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Glued stapled and screwed the top assembly to the rafters. You can see how the one rafter is the side of the port in this pict. Even have a brace screwed to the middle of the box to help hold the sub up and stiffen the top. Had to caulk the sides too, to many gaps between the old rafter and the MDF side piece.
Glued and stapled the face into place. Used a few clamps to keep things tight until the glue sets up. Will take those down tomorrow and mount the sub.
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The little baby 10
Laid out the port, cut a few pieces of MDF then glued and stapled it together. Routered the edges and smoothed it out before stapling it to the top.
Shot it with some black primer.
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Have been plunking away for the past several months trying to put my shop together. Went from a 3000 sq ft shop to an 800 sq ft shop. Its realy tight in the new shop, not even enough room for all my tools. Good thing is its in my back yard now and not 40 minutes away. Space is tight so I had to be imaginative with the sub box.
Figured why not use the rafters and put the box in the ceiling. Nothing special but it should work out good. Will have my old 10" Type-R in it and I will use the amp from the house to power it. Box is 1.5 cubes, slot ported and tuned to 34hz.
The rafters
Speakers in the back
MDF ready to go
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what are some of his better songs?
can you post a link
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Go get the 9515g's
Its always sunny and warm down there lol. You can take a cruise to the beach anytime. Those nice subs probably wont be around long if he is selling them. I would love to have a pair of those for my build. The 5200s wouldn't be bad either.
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Chode could you shorten mine up a little? Would like it to just be Hobby if you wouldnt mind. Thanks.
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I noticed this discrepancy in port lengths using another calculator. I used the net dimensions of your enclosure and got 2 different lengths for the same sq area. A 19.5 X 8.25 slot port in the calculator gives a length of 17"+- but the same port size when calculated as a square port is 20"+-. Why would the length change for a port with the same area?
Im building a box for my Silverado and dont know why there is a change of length. Dont want to have the wrong port length and have my tuning off.
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I would have gotten killed in the single 15" competition. I know for sure im not putting up 154 dbs lol. That DDz15 must be one mean ass sub.
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Cool, then I can try again next month. If I could get my truck finished I wouldnt have to pray that his beater will be running every time we try and go somewhere.
Congrats on the prizes.
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If you drive back on Rt 50 you will drive right by my house. Im just off 50 near the Kent Narrows Bridge.
Cars sitting out in the driveway. Sucks I couldnt go. I was looking forward to this all week.
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Now Im not going. Blew the power steering pump in the car. Drove 5 miles down the road and it went out on us. Oil is all over everything and all the belts are slipping and smoking. I hate fcuking cars sometimes.
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Going out to set the gains on the amp now. Leaving in an hour or so, crossing our fingers hoping for the rain to hold out until after the comp.
Hop to meet a few members there today and trade demo's with Chode.
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My testing is all done. He needs to clean the car up but its pretty much ready to go. Should set the gains before we head down there though. Wish we had an O Scope.
Nice upgrade from the Memphis gear
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I made my Boy take off work to go to the show.
If I can get home early one day this week I thing Im dropping one of my HDC3 15A's and one of my new RD 3250's in his trunk. I want to have some fun this weekend.
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It sounds like your original drive is on the way out. You can try and proceed and see if it works out for you. If it dosnt I would just re partition and reformat the new disk then reinstall a fresh copy of your OS on the new disk. Then transfer any files you wish to keep from the original disk to the new disk ASAP. You might not have a lot of time left on the failing disk.
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Thats for the home version. Didnt know which one you had.
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On page 155 of the online manual it gives pretty good directions as to what you need to do. It looks like it will give you the option to create and manipulate partitions thru the software. If you have it done before hand it will just show up during the drive selection process. You are just going to choose the source ( existing drive your using) and the destination ( the disk your formatting ) The software will clone the drive and you should be able to just swap the drives out when its finished. The worst thing that could happen is it dosnt work and you have to start over. Read thru the directions first. I just skimmed thru them for this info.
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If its like some of the software I have used you want to create a disk image. That should be a bit by bit image of your current disk.
If you have created the partition you will also have to format the partition before writing to it. With the software your using it may or may not do all of this for you. Wish I could help you out with the software but I have never seen or used it.
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Is your new drive partitioned?
I have never used that software so I cant help you out with that. If you just picked up a new drive and are trying to swap information you will have to create partitions on the new drive first.
aq hdc3 18s
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Thats straight from the man at AQ. I emailed about this a week ago. He recommends 16 sq in per cube so you need a box 12 cubes berore port and sub displacement and 192 sq in of port. With the dimensions you have up there you are working with 13 cubes gross. The port is going to take up 2.3 cubic feet. Thats a 19 x 10 inch sq port 19 in long, I allowed for 3/4" port walls. Then you need to remove area for displacement. Dont have a number for that but could assume .25 to .35 for each woofer.
Your already down to 10.5 to 10.75 net cubes for the box. You might get away with that but you might want to see if you can find some more space.
Im building a box for my Ex cab Chevy for those same woofers with the alum coils.