-Hobby-
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Posts posted by -Hobby-
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I have a suggestion for you Steve.
Please build whatever you feel like building.................just dont wait to long. I want to see this getting built. I had a great time building the system in my Son's first car. Now Im planning what were gonna do for Boy number 2. He starts driving in a few months ugh.
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wow... didn't know that bro.
you know I do second Sunday of each month. argh... we are gonna have to make sure the other isn't doing something before we schedule hahahaha..
its still early... so i could change the date if needed.
Plus how you gonna come to the BBQ for you complimentary TDH burger if your throwing a show? I dont know if you got an invite or not to the BBQ, guessing not, so Im inviting you now. Lots of food and a good time with a bunch of bass heads. Sort of like a pulse show. Except for the food. The beer and liquor. The strippers.
Then our NSPL show is the next weekend just so you know.
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Congrats Bro.
Rick deserves major props for giving all us bassheads a place to go and play every month. Its very rare for a shop around here to have 2 comps a year. Always a good time there for sure.
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I will be down to see the Beast for sure.
I just hope Trippi's wife lets his old fart ass come out and play with the Boyz. Sunday is probably vacuuming and dusting day so he might have to miss the show
Bring a few more loud friends from NY down with you Beast.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLuHZJdwtEM&feature=player_embedded
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Build it under the seat until the kid get bigger. Then ditch the back seat.
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so your saying 17 gauge is pretty thick??
I use mainly 26g galvanized sheet metal. Easy to cut, break, bend and form. 24g isnt bad but cutting a lot of it by hand and forming it gets tough. 22g takes a little more effort and is where most of my metal forming machinery stops at. I can cut 18g by hand but would rather not. Even cutting it on a manual stomp shear is a bitch and Im no lightweight.
Any of those shears will work. Just may be a challenge getting them in the places where you want them to go. Pretty sure most new cars will use metal in the 22g range. You wont see anything thicker than that unless its an old car.
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8:10 right now and the front stage does a good job keeping up with the bass.
16:10 as soon as the 2 other sets show up I get them installed.
Will probably wind up at 20:10. Eventually going to put something back in my rear doors.
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I use one of these all the time to cut furnace openings. Just put it on the front of a cordless drill. Whats nice is you can angle the drill and rotate it from side to side. Im mostly cutting 22g with these. The metal in those decks cant be much thicker than that.
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Or use a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. Just watch out for the glass.
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17 gauge is pretty thick. They should cut the metal in a rear deck pretty easily. Its more of a can you fit the tool in the places you need it to go to do the work. Maybe drill in the middle and work towards the sides. The problem with the big humps is that the shears have a sweet spot/angle that they like to be in to cut right. To high or to low and they just dont cut. Or maybe I just had an old dull ass shear lol.
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They work pretty good on flat surfaces. Cant say I have tried one in a car before. If you have to cut thru double thick material it will be a bitch. Because of the length of the tool getting in tight corners wont be easy either. Sometimes they dont like going over pressed/stamped areas. An air saw with a good metal blade would work well. A plasma cutter would make quick work of it. Might not be that much to rent one.
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Think its the M1005. The M605 only had 1 cooling fan on top.
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Well, its my first time on here and I'm still trying to figure out how to make my way around this forum.
I posted what to do in your exterior thread. Keep all the exterior and interior picts in the same thread. That way when you nominate yourself all your work will be easily accessible. This section is for nominating, discussion and voting. All these new builds in this section should be in Member Builds / Show Offs.
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Yea your late. Thats sooooo 30 minutes ago.
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Every shop should have a giant tape ball. Table is very nice.
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Well deserved. Good job on the Hummer Rick. I will give props to the subs too. Those SMD's sound amazing in the Hummer. They sound good no matter what is playing and at every volume level. The doors, well they will just drill holes in your ears they are so loud. Congrats one the award Trippi. You deserve to have a kick ass ride like this Bro.
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I like that idea. Any pics of the buss bars installed on the box?
No picts of the inside. They are just bolted to some of my interior supports. I have 2 rows of 5 subs. With each sub wired in series and the pos and neg of each sub to a buss bar. All the neg terminals to one bar and all the pos terminals on the other bar. Then I have a 8g wire from each bar to a binding post on the box. Made it a lot easier to wire all the subs. If I did a bolt for each coil I would have 20 bolts on the front of the box
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I wish I had all that room in the back of my EX cab. Would make life a lot easier. Your box turned out awesome. Makes me want to wrap mine in something.
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I installed these buss bars inside the box. Wired all the subs to them and then one lead from each to 2 pair of binding posts mounted to the face of the box.
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I have 11.5 cubic feet and 4 6" PVC tubes and im doing some major hairtricks hehe
The 4 DD's and 8000 watts helps lol
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For round ports thats plenty. You dont need as much port area for a round port.
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you can use anywhere between 170 sq in and 220 sq in of port for a 14 cube net box. Lower tuning means a longer port and a larger box (gross). I havent messed with RE subs but staying between 12 sq in per cube and 16 sq in per cube is a good general rule to stick to. I couldnt give you a length for your port without a proper design. Different sizes and port wall configurations change the length. You just need to determine your max dimensions you want to work within and configure the box till it meets your specs.
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Does this look better for fuse block? After reading comments and looking and thinking about what i had it started to make sense about how they needed to be built.
Thats how you do it Bro. I saw this posted by killallblue and thought it was a distro for different amps. How its segmented depends on the amp. If an amp had 2 separate input sections I would have 2 separate output sections on the block. Dont know how that Warhorse is setup. One output section my be Ok if it needs 1250 amps of input into a single input section on the board. If there are 2 separate input sections on the board you would probably want to segment the output side accordingly.
I would like to have one of these myself. PM me a price for one. 4 runs in and 4 runs out. one bar with 4 inputs and 2 blocks on the output side with to outputs in each. I need 600 amps of fusing to each amp so I will double up a 300 amp fuse on each side. That would make my life a lot easier hooking up my amps.Would look a lot better too.
Your first amplifier - what was it?
in Amplifiers
Posted
Way back when I had one of those Realistic under the dash amp/eq's but have no idea what the specs were. It sounded like ass but that was probably because I had no idea what I was doing. First real amps were a pair of Coustic 360's that I installed in my old Ranger. Same deal though, I didnt know what I was doing. No idea what ohm load the amp was seeing. I can remember that when I was pounding on it hard I could smell baking electrical components. Damn things would get so hot I couldnt keep my hands on them. They took the abuse though and never shut down.