Aimfor1337
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Posts posted by Aimfor1337
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Steve you can get a usb exention cable and mount it tucked up out of place so that way oyu can just plug in without tearing down to get to the actual mac.
^^ damn good idea. I did that for my alpine deck... just ran the included USB extension up through my center console. Works perfectly, concealed, easy access. +1 for that idea.
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^^^ that works.
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Haha, I felt 2 of them the other day and they slap so hard... Wow. WAY better than 2 type R 12"s.... Im ordering my 12" soon. Hehe. Cant wait. Going to run about 1200 watts to her. How many are you running? I think i'm going to stick with one.
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Looks good... i want to see what kind of numbers you'll get off the two alone. Any guesses?
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Probably to make it level since he does have a tad dip in the floor. Something for the box to sit on evenly.
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If the alarm isnt a 2-way it wont... the receiver in the remote may be broken if you dropped the remote.
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I have a multimeter... Not sure if i could test the output with it, but i'm betting so since it will just tell me the output voltage if so. A shop did install it but it was a WHILE ago... so i doubt they'll cover it. i highly doubt it. We simply bought a new remote for it, programmed it, the thing worked fine then i noticed the wiring to the siren all junky so i stripped and re-nutted the wiring, and then it wasnt working. My buddy took it to a shop to have it looked at for a remote, because he didnt know which one to order, and the shop cut off the valet switch. We just held the wiring together to set the remote and it worked. Now if you touch the valet wiring together, the brain makes a clicking noise, like it's trying to work or something. Not sure.
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If i did this, what would i do about that. Replace the whole alarm system? I cant seem to find any replacement brains for this system, at all.
Anyways to fix this if that's the case?
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I guess when i disconnected the siren from the brain unit, the alarm was activated. This apparently caused a spark. What damage is done, The touch was not long at all, but what has gone wrong? The siren no longer chirps when activating or setting the alarm, de-activating or panic. The siren it's self works perfectly, i've tested it to the 12V battery in the truck.
The truck is a 1998 Chevy S-10. I'm just wondering if i popped a fuse, and if so, where would the fuse be, or if i fried the brain of the alarm.
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This is my current set up. very happy although I should have lengthened the port a bit to lower the tuning closer to 35hz.
these dimensions are (outside dimensions) 32Wx14Hx17.5D. tuned to 38hz with the 12.5" tall x 3.5" wide port. porting this way eliminates the need for additional bracing. And, obviously, this is for 4 subs, su just cut the enclosure in half....yea, I know, but felt that if I didnt say that....some one would say something :tease:
the back "L" is 3.75" long. so lengthen a bit more, (check re program for tuning length?) and increase depth of box to keep cubes......tired, if this makes no sence, I will fix it tomorrow.
your figures up there are wrong even if they were 10s 4 wouldnt fit across the 32w you say your usingRead the bold.
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Steve, you are a fucking GOD man. What the hell, how do you plan and take on projects so fucking huge? lol i'd kill to have your abilities and courage! I get a bit scared and nerveous when im ripping apart a car to install 2 runs of 1/0 power and running 1/0-2/0 ground...
You're amazing. Good work steve, keep it up! Btw that's an assload of wiring, any estimate on the weight of it all? 400 lbs? LOL. -
^^^ LOL.
But man, i know how it feels to have your shit jacked. I've gotten a good 3 grand stolen from me :/ (live in the nicest house in a shitty neighborhood) That's when i got my viper, and for the trunk, i ran some thick ass 1/0 guage sized cable through the top of the trunk and the tire well, padlock the connection with a big ass lock. you can open my trunk about 2-3 inches, just enough to reach in and unlock the lock. I'll take some pics some time... but it's really simple, and you can NOT bolt cut that cable, it's too thick. The lock is a master and there's no room to play w/ it. you'd need an air grinder and about 3-4 minutes. As for my deck... got an alpine and i keep the face w/me at all times.
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Ha, my dad has a similar collection... but that took him well over 30 years of saving tools from previous handyman jobs he's done and whatnot. Nice box btw, what kind of carpet and glue do you plan on using?
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Who exactly is rusty on these forums- im looking to buy 2 Lvl 3's actually, but they are for a buddy so i need them NIB. I wanted to get the price of 130 for them as we could in a group buy but i can pay more. I also have a question... why wont DC sell direct?
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Can we get this going again, a buddy of mine wants 2 12" Lvl 3's.... Please get this started!
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I'll be running 2400 watts.... What guage of wiring would be safest.
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Looks good, but i'm not sure if your port is the best for them in that box.
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Nice goals and i like the interchangeable port idea. Kinda makes the box verstile for use of other subwoofers if wanted. Going to use any batts/capacitors?
You're amazing. Good work steve, keep it up! Btw that's an assload of wiring, any estimate on the weight of it all? 400 lbs? LOL.
The Tahoe Got Painted! Black with Red Pearl and Black! HOT!! (imo) (TAILIGHTS TINTED pg7) FINISHED PICS PG 12 and 15
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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Hey Steve, you ever consider doing shaved door handles? I think that would look sick... but again would be difficult for your fans to climb in and out. Just a thought. Oh, and a question... did you get the 916 that you added to your forum name and other names from your area code... (916)***-****? Lol. just saw the phone # in the background, was wondering. Btw the 'Hoe looks sick. Superb color choice.