1976 Silverado
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Posts posted by 1976 Silverado
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hehe possiblyGuess you type faster than me huh?? lol
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EDIT: IF you want 3/4 the inside but WITH ALOT OF BRACING it SHOULD be REALLY close to 16cft.
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well at 19cft and with the 45's you could make it around 18cft (just make them beefy). then with lets say .26 per sub thats .52cft.. which will it make it a total of 17.48cft which should be ok.. after all suggested spl is 8cft per sub. but thats just recomended (please someone with experience with dc subs chime in if im incorrect). so the extra .75cft should be ok for the subs.yes on the inside to reduce the airspace
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do you mean on the inside?.. to reduce the amount of air? or on the outside for extra support? if its for the support i say just brace it properly and it should be fine.thanks for that what do you think about my air space should i throw another layer of 3/4' mdf on it
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ok well sorry but did a bit of searching and came up with nothing. The 18 Fi BTL is .26cft displacement. And they are close to each other on the specs so that SHOULD give you SOMETHING to work with. Sorry that its not exactly what you wanted but hope it gives you an IDEA of how much space it will take.yes two 18's i still have not done the 45's yet so i dont know how much that will use up
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2 18 for 19cft?sorry about that im will be running two subs
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what happens if sumone else gets to it first
x2
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I to have the same problem as you (truck in sig). It sounds like you have a good amount of space behind your seat(or you like to be on the steering wheel). But if this was my truck i would do the 2 12's with the subs on passenger side, and port on driver side. You can either use a slot port, or you can use a Areo(round) port. Let me do some numbers and ill let you know what I can come up with.
Edit: Do you have a tuning frequency that you would like it at? What kind of music do you mainly listen to?
i listen mostly to rap and my current box is sealed and is too small and doesnt hit the lows like i would like it to. i really hit the highs really well but would LOVE to destroy the lows lol. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! (Yes i am really close to the steering wheel lol got to sacrifice something for bass)
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Damn that sucks man i dont know anything about that but i work at a grocery store lol and hate having to show people where something is that is not even close to what they want! I understand they cant find it but if they would have the common sense that dog food wont be where the produce is i wouldnt care!
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I talked to my buddie today he said long as it's not flashing it's not that big of an issue, im taking it to the dealer next week.
it looks like a pipe wif a tear drop
maybe its the oil? lol
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gues what i got a call about a job interview today yay me
but im not accepting anything new at this point but if youve already replied i will still consider your offers
i realize i wasnt getting many to start off but i felt like i should post this anyway.
thanks
Dillon
i have a mtx tc6001? its a mono amp rated at 600rms but birthsheet said close to 750. not sure whats wrong with it but like 2 or 3 little tank looking things haa are burnt out? not sure if you would want to buy and repair it?..
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Since us pickup guys are lucky enough to not have to run all the way to a trunk or hatch, i had 25ft of wire when i started, did the big3 wires a 1 run of it to the xtra cab and have about 6 ft left over... But my power run is only about 7-8 ft long cuzz it runs down the tranny hump, not up n out to the door sills and back in. I suck at guesstimating prices/needs, but i budgeted 100$ for my wiring, and was really close to it, like 110 or something.
ok thanks alot for your help man!
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While you are picking up your new wire, make sure to order crimp rings for your big 3 needs, and groud wires,i think i used 10 to do mine, and a FUSE HOLDER/ Fuse...Bigger hose means more water to spill, so PLEASE make sure you have the proper rated fuse in line..
Good-luck!
*edited for spelling cuzz i suck at it
sounds good.. do you know roughly about how much the big 3 will cost?.. sucks cause i just rebuilt my transmission cause it blew on me haha.. currently still owe 450 on it..
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Well both call for 3 cubic feet and that's roughly what you have before displacement or everything, let me see what I can do.
ok thanks alot man! its hard to make noise in a single cab and especially with a bench seat! i think it would be better for me to go with the 2 level 3 12's since it would be more cone area and would be better aswell?
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I know what you mean, and that just reminded me of amost of the pre fab truck boxes and I just wanted to throw if out there so here it goes, the pre fab box I saw was a buddy of mine's kicker box and his box had the port coming out of the side, so that's another option.
well the 61'' would mean the port would be like 3 inches away from the cab side... gah hard to understand and its dark out so cant take pics to show.. my truck has like a weird groove in it that adds an extra like 3 inches on each side and i think port should have around 5'' before it comes into contact with anything?
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Think about external ports yet? I would imagine that'd be the easiest route but I don't know how much room you're playing with.
the length i have is 61'' the bottom is 11.5'' the top would be 7.5'' and thats at 13.5'' high.. (side looks liek a triangle) not sure if you know what i mean hope you guys understand though?
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I'm looking at getting a single cab truck soon so I'm sort of planning ahead, and personally I think a blow-through would be best, but I don't know if you'll be willing to cut your truck up a bit for a bigger sub box.
no a blowthrough is out of the question lol although seems really interesting. I am really set on either 2 12's or a solid 15'' and dont know on which way to have the port face.. i heard you should have at least 5 inches between port and anything it will hit? not sure if that is currect though.
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well i currently have 4 kicker cvrs and plan on selling them and buy either 2 12'' level 3 dc subs or a 15'' dc level 4xl not sure which would be better but which way should i have the port firing?.. because the box would be like 1-2 inches away from the backseat.. so i was thinking about it firing up toward the ceiling but would that be effective and how would i create the box?
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most shops carry stinger or others and they usually run anywhere from 6-11 bucks a foot for 0 gauge.
knukonkepts is 3 and some change a foot and is just as good if not better than the higher priced stuff.
go with knu and you will be pleased.
ok thanks man.. also wondering if upgrading big 3 will benifeit while running a stock alt?
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yep.
you'll be fine with just one run of 0 gauge. i recommend knukonceptz just because they the best you can get for the money.
and upgraded electrical is big 3, upgraded front battery, extra batteries elsewhere, upgraded alternator.
anyone of those listed will help you out.
if your not familiar with the big 3 here is a link to what i'm talking about.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280
ok man thanks alot! knew nothing before this site and now am proud to say i know at least something! ill try to buy some wire this friday though because im not satisfied with my current system.
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That's to the rear battery bank actually. Not directly to the amplifier, The amp would feed off of the rear battery. I think you said stock alt and battery, so one run of wire should do since you don't have any additional batteries. I'd look into getting one though!
yea well its hard working part time and bass is addicting! also expensive! i was planning on buying the wire from out current audio shop here i think they just have 1 kind of wire or should i buy it over the net?
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He just means that you are overloading the wire and that you could have SERIOUS electrical issues on your hand within the near future. Anytime you go over 1000RMS(some cars I would do it over 500 anyway) you are suppose to upgrade your stock electrical wire to 0 gauge. Most of us in increments of 1000 double the runs of wire to keep the load down. So you are actually pushing your factory accessories off of the wire and then the system too which is a major problem when it comes to keeping your voltage high enough to run everything properly. Your amp isn't going to do it's rated power and you could risk frying it because your voltage will dip too low. Whoever installed it for you could have mentioned it or if you did you should have done a bit more research on the matter.
It's not going to do anything close to 2000watt RMS at 1ohm though that's out of the question. Only way to tell would be to clamp it
when you double the runs of wires that means you have like 2 or 3 1/0 gauge going to the battery?
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You should run 1/0 wire and upgrade electricel... thats what they mean
yea im going to do 1/0 wire this friday when i get paid.. and by upgrade electrical what exactly is that? meaning upgrading alt?.. sorry about these idiotic questions just got into bass recently and am ilinformed
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x2
what exactly do you mean by this?.. well i have 5g from the battery to the amp then 5g as ground aswell?
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Lvl 5 18 Displacement
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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