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dyeagain15

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Posts posted by dyeagain15

  1. What year is it? im gonna take a shot in the dark and say a mid 90's?

    Straight from I-cars website, all the service and technical info

    Technical Information: Airbag Parts Replacement Recommendations

    1997 Saturn SC

    PARTS THAT MUST BE REPLACED FOLLOWING DEPLOYMENT

    * Airbag modules

    * Sensing and diagnostic module

    * Any damaged restraint system part

    CAUTION: Restraint systems can be damaged in a collision. To help avoid injury and ensure that all parts in need of replacement are replaced:

    Replace any seat belt system that was in use during a collision serious enough to deploy any automatic restraint device such as air bags and seat belt pretensioners. This not only includes seat belt systems in use by people of adult size, but seat belt systems used to secure child restraints, infant carriers and booster seats, including LATCH system and top tether anchorages.

    Replace any seat belt system that has torn, worn, or damaged components. This not only includes adult seat belt systems, but built-in child restraints and LATCH system components, if any.

    Replace any seat belt system if you observe the words "REPLACE" or "CAUTION", or if a yellow tag is visible. Do not replace a seat belt system if only the child seat caution label is visible.

    Replace any seat belt system if you are doubtful about its condition. This not only includes adult seat belt systems, but built-in child restraints, LATCH system components, and any restraint system used to secure infant carriers, child restraints and booster seats.

    Do NOT replace single seat belt system components in vehicles that have been in a collision as described above. Always replace the entire seat belt system with

    the buckle, guide and retractor assembly, which includes the latch and webbing material.

    After a minor collision where no automatic restraint device was deployed, seat belt system replacement may not be necessary, unless some of the parts are torn, worn, or otherwise damaged.

    PARTS THAT MUST BE INSPECTED AND REPLACED IF DAMAGED

    * Steering wheel, column, and column foam energy absorber

    * Clock spring

    * Knee bolsters and instrument panel mounting points

    * Front seats

    * Wiring harness and connectors

    * Any restraint system part or wiring identified by diagnostic check

    DISABLE PROCEDURE AND TIME (Always Check the Service Manual)

    * Make sure vehicle wheels are pointing straight ahead.

    * Turn ignition switch to LOCK and remove key.

    * Remove airbag fuse from instrument panel fuse block.

    * Remove connector lock and disconnect yellow 2-way connector near base of steering column for driver airbag.

    * Remove upper trim panel, insulator, and connector lock and disconnect yellow 2-way connector for passenger airbag.

    * No wait time if airbags are disconnected from deployment loop as listed above.

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    The Airbag Parts Replacement Recommendations chart is designed as an aid to damage appraisal, and an initial guide to vehicle-specific airbag system repair after a deployment. The chart covers production vehicles sold in the United States. Because of the many changes that are occurring in airbag systems, there may be some exceptions to the chart. This chart is NOT intended to replace the service manual. A service manual is REQUIRED when making any airbag system repairs.

    The only way to determine if an airbag system is working properly is to observe the airbag warning lamp on the instrument panel. When the key is switched ON, the airbag lamp should light for a few seconds. This is important because it indicates that the lamp is working. If after a few seconds the lamp goes out, the system is working properly. If the lamp stays lit, a problem exists.

    The "Replace" and "Inspect" columns list parts that must be replaced and inspected following an airbag deployment. The parts in the "Replace" column must be replaced regardless of their condition. If airbag parts in the "Inspect" column are found to be damaged or faulty, replacement with new parts is generally the only option.

  2. I think 400 grit is a little fine. You can use 180 and do scratch reduction afterwards. 180 to 240 to 400. Clean thoroughly with soap and water, use wax and grease remover and a dry towel to wipe down, then wipe down with a wet rag to make sure all the solvent is off and to prevent solvent popping in your paint. Prime and sand with 240 to ensure a smooth surface, blow dust off with an air gun, clean with wax and grease remover, then wipe with a wet rag again. Spray two coats of sealer, color, then clear with appropriate flash times between each coat. Then detail after to remove any dirt that got in the paint, and polish to finish :drinks: best of luck

  3. Americans as a majority, view cars as disposable. Something goes wrong and they get say a 2 grand bill to fix what minor problem it is even with financing, they view it as the car going to shit. Trade it in, and monthly payments for a new or slightly used car is ideal for them. Idk why people prefer to live in debt when they can save more money keeping an older vehicle running. Me, I've had my truck since i was 16, and have kept it in running order. Its now got 206K original miles (2000 F150) with OE motor and tranny. Maintenance and care is key :good:

    Edit: I'm now 21

  4. paint came out shitty last time i buy in a can that says its going to match and clear coat that the guy suggests was shit to so my hood looks blotchy any suggests?

    Matching clearcoat is called blending. Essentially you will sand the panel an all adjacent panels and shoot clear over it all. Basically sand with 1500 grit to scuff the old clear, clean and shoot. Wet sand with a block to take out any runs and then buff and will look legit. PM me if you need any help :drinks:

    Edit: sorry misread. HVLP gun ftw will be the best. very hard to get a clean coat out of a can.

  5. Ok so you're running an extra load on top of the normal loads your car runs. There will be a dip in power. Without electrical upgrades i.e. a bigger battery or going crazier with a H/O alternator you will notice voltage drop. I put a Shuriken battery in my truck an noticed better performance out of my audio. Your battery is probably what, 700 CCA? If that? I've heard of 1 CCA for every rms youre running. So my suggestion would be upgrade your battery to what rms you'll be running plus some reserve for extra loads in your car such as lights and what not :drinks:

  6. Wheel balance, wheel balance, wheel balance. Do you feel it in the steering wheel? If you do its front tires. if its your seats, its rear tires. Alignment does not cause a vibration (unless it's way out of spec). Look at the tires. Abnormal wear is an alignment. Choppy tread blocks (cupping) is wheel balance. Alignments can cause a shimmy in the steering wheel. If so then its an alignment. I'd say start with a balance because its cheaper, then if that dont fix it do the alignment. :drinks:

  7. whats wrong? if so how do i fix it. sorry Im not a computer nerd I do good to log on to aol lol just tryin to find what I need just made an account on this site last night no harm intended.

    you don't have to be a computer nerd to know how to read, or not be a complete retard in general.

    you heard me thats all that matters! if this is another damn "smartass internet toughguy" site just delete my shit I dont do the middle school drama like I said Im new here tryin to figure it all out so how bout hoppin off my nuts I'd apreciate it. just tryin to learn to do my sterio stuff myself no smart comments needed. thanks

    They're basically saying this is in the wrong section. There is a want to buy section for threads like this. Just ask a mod politely if they would move it for you. Anyone that would be able to do that would have a red or blue font under their name. (correct me if im wrong guys :P )

    greatly apreciated bud. see Im learning more by the minute lol but thanks again

    its no problem, just trying to help :drinks:

  8. whats wrong? if so how do i fix it. sorry Im not a computer nerd I do good to log on to aol lol just tryin to find what I need just made an account on this site last night no harm intended.

    you don't have to be a computer nerd to know how to read, or not be a complete retard in general.

    you heard me thats all that matters! if this is another damn "smartass internet toughguy" site just delete my shit I dont do the middle school drama like I said Im new here tryin to figure it all out so how bout hoppin off my nuts I'd apreciate it. just tryin to learn to do my sterio stuff myself no smart comments needed. thanks

    They're basically saying this is in the wrong section. There is a want to buy section for threads like this. Just ask a mod politely if they would move it for you. Anyone that would be able to do that would have a red or blue font under their name. (correct me if im wrong guys :P )

  9. So update I took first for post secondary students at the regional competition. I took first for the written test and first overall. So I get to go to state. I found this out a while ago and forgot to update this thread. Thursday I leave for state and Im feeling more confident than I did at regionals. To get to nationals I have to place first so everyone wish me luck :woot: i will try to get/take some pics during the events if i can for all you pic whores :)

  10. Dc will more than likely be cheaper than the jl's ...but since you are limited on space I can't really say what will perform the best. i have used dc and jl...dc sounds way better in my application

    This exactly. You'd save some money buying dc. But none the less, best of luck deciding :drinks:

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