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Posts posted by Souldrop
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Yeah, I've been wanting to try your new platform drivers at some point. The new basket design is awesome!
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Running two Brahma MKI 12"s with Fi recones now. I don't notice much of a drop off; granted they are sealed with about 1.2 cube each. Haven't measured anything so there might be a dropoff that I don't detect.
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Neo and linearity in the same package is really cool. Been wanting to try an old XXX or an adire extreme, so if these new subs fill that niche I'll be all over them. Shame these Sundown XBL^2 protos never went into production, but looking forward to the new linear BL sub. .
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Any estimates on power handling yet?
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Entered. Would love to try some dc products finally.
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More like there's been a hole in my heart.
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I want the proto! guess gonna have to watch the yard sale in case you decide to throw it in there. Really looking forward to it. Next year may be a terrible year for my bank account between Sundown and possibly RF.
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I've read somewhere that once you hit ~10.5" in in slug OD it's hard (impossible) to find any suppliers for anything larger, and that's part of the reason that all the biggest ferrite motors seem to have similar widths. Is this true or is it more of a design issue where anything bigger has diminishing returns? Regardless both motor and basket are sexy, and I'm looking forward to seeing them in action. If there was a nobel prize in car audio I think Sundown would be the shoo in. ATM it really feels like Sundown is doing the most to advance the technology and designs of drivers for car audio. Thanks!
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damn. didn't know sundown was in the laundry basket business. How big are the slugs on the team motors?
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What if i did two Rockford Fosgate T2 15 inch subs, with a sundown audio SAZ - 2500? I think that would be a reasonable set up for my first go. I did my math all wrong when i first posted this, so i did a quick edit. i think this setup would hit pretty hard.
RF T2 subs are very good, but imo the sundown x is better. I still run RF amps and they are beasts. I'd go RF amps and sundown subs in you situation .
The cool thing about RF amps is the CP the amp puts out near the same power 1 ohm or 2. I've run RF amps for 20 plus years, well there was a couple
of MTX years the early us ones, but never had one fail.
Yeah I would do the same thing if I was looking for new subs.
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The X is more expensive than the T2? Either you're looking in the wrong places for the X or you're getting a steal on a T2...
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To be honest it's going to be impossible to say how hard it will hit. It's going to be dependent on the entire install, type of car, enclosure, etc... Look at how much space you have, figure out what you want to do (spl, sq, geared towards comp or daily). Look at what you want to accomplish and then pick your subs, pick your amp, and have at it. There are a ton of great audio companies out there that work within the power you're wanting to run. Do research, watch vids, and look at builds. Once you figure what equipment you're going to run ask specific questions about your install if you need help. Whenever you ask for comparisons you're going to get people who lean both ways unless it's definitely a shitty company. Are you going to be doing everything yourself?
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Whenever you run wire from one place or another you can run another wire right beside it. It increases the amount of current that travels from one point to another. That's what they mean by multiple runs.
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i've used both the fosgate t1000-bdcp and a older sundown sae-1200. I got the RF for 220 Used and paid roughly the same for the SAE new. The sundown was a great amp, but the RF is better imho. This is doing a straight out swap on a old silver T2 15. The sundown can be had for cheaper new. Buying each new I would probably lean towards the Sundown. They're both good solid amps. As far as subs, I've never used Sundown. .
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You've made several post about running a 5k amp. The XL is rated at 2200W RMS, that's going to be way too much power unless you're going to wire it to a higher resistance until you pick up another sub. A couple of other pertinent questions is this for daily or burp and is your car's electrical system able to handle the 5k? Do you want to use a slot port or a round port? As far as box design look at torres box calculator. It's an extremely easy to use tool and will let you fool around with numbers to fit your exact needs, unless you're just wanting to use all that available space?
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I hate saying this but its.all install dependent. I used to hang and know alot of hardcore spl guys. Like guys who had boxes stacked in their garage that they could pull out and show you the writing on the top of the specs and what score it did at what freq. Power didnt matter because they were overdriving their woofers anyways. Alot of street a b and c boxes that were done with one battery as well. Alot of ugly 2x4s in the ports extra baffles etc. They could range from a couple thousand watts to about 5k in most cases. Small time for us now but at that point it was big time. Alot of what theyd see was larger ports loss of cone control. Extremely peaky boxes and more woofers that went poof.
I could definitely see this being an issue. I'm not sure if Small's formula takes into account the damping factor of the enclosure. he was after reducing port velocity.
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I personally like the video. You emphasized that there was no tried and true formula for any given install and that to get the high numbers takes experimentation.
Edit: oops sorry didn't see the thread was 3 weeks old lol.
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The 'ideal" amount of port is generally higher than most people run. Anything thus far suggested will work, but krakin's suggestion is closer to the optimal. You have to find a middle ground between port area and length depending on your install limitations and hope for the best.
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There is a BC2000d on car audio classified right now for $275.
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Running a monoblock at 2 ohm is generally going to be easier on your electrical, but the trade off is to get a certain amount of power at 2 ohms can cost more. Is 750 your total budget? How much you're wanting to spend has a lot to do with amp suggestions as well as what your electrical is like.
Addendum- Depending on how much power you end up running, the price difference of buying an amp capable at running a certain power into 2 ohms vs another amp that's 1 ohm stable may be used to up your electrical (big 3 etc. depending on what amps are available new or used for good prices). If you plan on running a moderately powered system the efficiency difference between 1 and 2 ohm won't compensate for a solid electrical system. I would personally look at the Fosgate T1500-bdcp. They can be found fairly regularly for 300-350 used. I love the constant power amps, and it should provide close to the power you want at 2 ohms. I am biased towards Fosgate, so others may chime in with other suggestions.
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Yeah, it should do fine.
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Alrighty then thanks for the info. I will have some fun with that sub and see what it can take :-) btw is there a reasonable place or person to get some parts to recone this sub? I've looked at the speaker exchange and from what I can tell the tinsel leads aren't stitched into the spider.
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TTT - By a lack of response so it appears the only true option is a re-cone?
I see SE is branch out a bit.
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