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Posts posted by Maxim
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Bro, if I was you....I'd change the title. I came in here about to delete a thread that I thought was out of line.......
No lie. I saw the title of the thread and totally thought someone was drunk posting again. :drunk:
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I wouldn't do it just glassed, unless you've got some sort of box/frame holding it all together. Just glass trying to hold those two subs in with that kind of power's gonna need a good deal of bracing. Good luck though!
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YES!!! Let the glassing commence! Do work son!
Also, I might have missed it altogether, but what are the plans for the doors? I remember someone asking about a two-tone wrap to match, but I'm wondering what the man himself is thinking.
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Holy fawk! Septuple post? Am I the only one who sees this?
Lol, apparently not. I've seen double and triple posts, but never SEVEN. That's a record for sure!
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I LIKE THE IDEA OF THE MAC BUT CAN IT HANDLE THE 30K WATTS?
I dunno if it'll handle 30K watts, but it'll handle Caps Lock like a fucking champ.
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Screw the computer. What are you doing wasting time on the computer at a time like this?!? Get the damn doors going!!!
No, but seriously, this (re)build is coming out amazing. I'm tuned in to every second of it. It just keeps getting better and better.
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Mac FTL, my boy. Go with Windows. Or boot up Windows 7 on the Mac Mini. I'd say Mac makes better hardware, but Windows by far makes the best software on the planet.
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We need those dimensions before we can have any idea of how big of a box to build. Post them up here, and somebody will get to work.
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Inches and cubic feet. Liters to cubic feet is somewhere in the realm of 28 liters per cubic foot, so each sub is seeing a little over a cubic foot net. The reccommended ported box size says 30 L, so I'm assuming about 1.1 cubes per sub.
If you can give me some maximum dimensions for the box, I can work on a box design for you. Either cm or inches will work. I'll have to convert it to inches to do the measurements/calculations, but I can convert it back when I'm done.
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ive always wondered, what does the pigment do other than change the color? if anything
If I remember correctly, he stated in on of his videos that the pigment was basically because he got sick of plain brown resin. I think it looks better too. Just my $0.02
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I'm at Northeastern studying Computer Science. Our school has major hook-ups with Microsoft, and I'm currently running a FREE AND LEGAL copy of Windows 7 downloaded through my school's site. One catch: it expires in 5 years, meaning it stops getting automatic updates unless I buy a retail copy. The SECOND bonus: I got free tickets to the Windows 7 launch premiere tomorrow where I get a FREE retail copy. I love my school. =)
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Those things look like they were attacked by Steve's dog Rock. Damn. They're torn to shreds. They probably wouldn't even be worth the $200 bucks if he had them reconed. I don't even want to know how they got in such bad condition.
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How long is the inside of a limo anyway? Get an stretched Escalade limo. It'd be like the Hoopty's big brother. And what's the issue with the sound waves reversing? a 35 hz wave has a wavelength of about 32 feet. A 30 hz wave has a wavelength of about 37.5 feet. Even in a limo, I don't see much of an issue. I think the point at which frequency equals wavelength in feet is around 33.5 hz with a 33.5 foot wave.
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Lol. No matter how many times he falls back over, he never lets go of that six-pack. Priorities man. Gotta work on those...
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From what I've heard here on the forums, using two or more boxes tuned to different frequencies is a big no-no. There was one kid who wanted to put both his and his friend's boxes in the back of his truck, but it turned out to be a bad idea. You would think that it would act kinda like a bandpass box, with a high response over a longer band of frequencies, but it actually causes interference and does not sound good. I'd make them all the same, or put them all in one box, but give it a shot if you think it'll work.
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They'll fit, staggered, but they'll fit. the centers will be 9" apart. I can make a model in SketchUp if you want. The port will be tricky, but I'll try to work it in there.
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Probably a little boost, but it'll mostly depend on your system. How much power are your amps pulling? It'll make a more noticeable difference with greater power. And even if it doesn't make a big difference in output, it's still better for your system to have the larger gauge wires.
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Bump some beats. LOUD beats. Like you would if it was your birthday. :yahoo:
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Wait, what do you mean wiring that can't be relocated?
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Alright. So we're making a trunk system here? I can design a box for you if you want. However, you'll need to make a few decisions before I do so:
1) How many subs are you using?
2) What size subs are they?
3) How big is your trunk (original post said W36" x D36" x H24", just making sure this is still right)
4) What direction do you want them facing?
5) What do you want this thing tuned to?
From what I've gathered, it's subs and port forward. Let me know about the other couple things and I can get going a design in SketchUp.
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I havn't been on these boards in a while and the d00d who used to help me out i cant contact for some reason.
I was wondering if anyone could recommend me to someone who will do a box design, I'm not asking for free I am willing to pay.
Or if you do box designs and u are reputable please do post =]
Once I find someone we can do it however you would like to and ill take a picture of my trunk with the stabilizer bar in and photoshop up a picture with all the measurements and we can get to work.
I have a 12" DC Lvl 4 and a Memphis 1000.1.D
Looking to build a box in the back of my 95 Acura Integra LS
Sub up, Port back towards hatch tuned @ 32hz
Also I was wondering besides the big 3 what else i needed to do. I had the sub hooked up in my truck with a powerbass1000.1 and a stinger battery and the big 3 all 0 ga and it still dimmed out my lights pretty bad (to the point my headlights completely went out) n i severed the tinsel lead wires due to a voltage problem. But i had the sub reconed and new wires put in thanks Rusty!!
[i did search the forums but couldn't find anything]
Post if you can help =] thx
-sIn
I can design a box for you. I've made a couple for people that I know they really liked. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. I can send you some pics of some SketchUps I did of other boxes if you want to get an idea of the designs I've done.
Oh, and your lights might have been dimming because of your alt. If you were running a 1000W amp and didn't upgrade your alt, it was probably draining your batteries, even if you had two of them. A high-output alt would fix that.
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i wanna build a box for 4 cvr kicker 15"s now there website says 5 cubic ft for a max on one sub i think but how would you do 4 would you like i dunno double it? the cubic ft screw with my head i'm building it for a silverado extended cab i'm going to take the back seat out of course and when it says the mounting depth is 8 1/8" how deep should the box be?
If the cubic feet for one sub is 5 cubes, and you're running 4 subs, you'll want to multiply it by four to get 20 cubes as a max volume.
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=56684
^^^ found this not 10 seconds ago
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Think this is def the box ill end up building, will prob get wood in the next few days, just seeing if anyone sees anything wrong with this. Will be mounted in ext cab truck just like you see it. Details on picture. Port area is 12" which i think is just about right for a 0.8 cube box.
Crazy port going on that thing. If you manage to get all those as 45's, I'd be impressed. Wouldn't be as difficult if you did resin 45's. Just insanely time consuming. Looks real good though. Can't wait to see it built!
Turning Windows into Subwoofers
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
Posted
That'd be plenty of cone area. Probably wouldn't get too loud, but it'd be great for cars with no room for a standard sub.